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Old 05-30-2015, 12:50 PM   #1
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Ready Brute Brake System-Jeep ?s

I have the above and only used it a couple of times and then left it and the Wrangler toad at a 2nd home about 3 years ago. I have sold the Motorhome I had used with it.

My questions are:

1. If the tow bar lines up level with a tow vehicle receiver and the tow vehicle has the large round plug for lights, will everything work including brakes with no adjusting when I tow it back home? Brakes worked great when I last towed it. I had a light installed with my last RV that lit up when the brakes were being applied, I assume I can get by without that?

2. On the Wrangler, it still has all of the wiring under the hood with the male plug to attach to the tow vehicle which may be my current RV or my SUV, I have not decided yet....My Wrangler is a 92 Renegade with manual shift. I know to check front manual hubs are not engaged and transfer case in neutral...but I recall some discussion on transmission either being in neutral or in 5th gear?

Any refresher tips would be appreciated as I will be towing it from WV mountains and there are a couple of very steep grades which will be more of a concern if I tow it with my SUV.

Thanks,

Scott
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Old 05-30-2015, 01:02 PM   #2
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round plug... yes, electrical should work as before. I make sure all the lights work before we head out...

surge brake adjustment should also be the same since it is the length of the cable from the tow bar to the jeep (which should be the same as before).

As for the Jeep, yes... xfer case in neutral, put tranny in first gear and let clutch out, (Jeep should not move). Put tranny in high gear (5th is fine to "park the gears"). Make sure steering is unlocked and e-brake is disengaged.
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Old 05-30-2015, 01:20 PM   #3
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You can tow without the dash light. I did for a season before hooking it up.

The brake is a surge brake. It works when the Jeep pushes on the MH. That engages a lever that pulls a cable on the Jeep. The cable then pulls the brake pedal down. Make sure your cable is in good shape and adjusted to the right length. The braking is all mechanical as described here. The rest is just lighting.

As to that electrical, if your previous MH stuck to standard locations for a 7 pin electrical, you should be OK.

When I first set up my Tiffin, I had to do some testing of each circuit to get it to synch up with the wiring harness I used on the Jeep. Buy a 12V test light (cheap looks like a pen or screw driver with two wires). Ground goes to a good bare metal surface, then start touching each connector.

Hit the TV brakes, see which pin lights the test light. Make sure that pin is in the position to send the signal to the brake lights on the Jeep and on and on with the blinkers and lights on.

The Jeep's brake lights should come on when the Jeep's pedal is depressed by the surge brake and/or when you touch your brakes in the TV. The Surge brake actuating the pedal will be automatic. You will have to test the circuit from TV through the connector to the Jeep. The Ready Brake will not activate every time you hit the brakes in the TV. It only activates with enough push from the weight of the Jeep to activate the lever that pulls the cable.
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:24 PM   #4
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As mentioned above do check out the lights - you are assuming the newer motorhome has the same wiring as the one you sold and you could be correct in that assumption but you won't know for sure until you test it. I tow my 1995 wrangler with transfer case in neutral and the standard gear shift in 5th gear. I have to put the ignition key in the Aux position to unlock the steering wheel. The ready brake seems to work just fine on that wrangler.
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Old 05-30-2015, 05:31 PM   #5
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Thanks guys, I will be sure to test lights. Last Coach was a 2010 Fleetwood Pulse (Sprinter) its rated tow capacity was 3500# so I was right at the limit and a little tough to tow in Mts. Current coach is a 2009 Workhorse W-22 with a Banks exhaust, its sweet spot on 2 long 7% grades was 62mph in 4th (6speed) with no toad yet. It is a 34ft and this was my first trip on I-77 NC/VA enroute to I-64 in WV where the Sprinter with no toad was 35 to 40 in 3rd (5 speed) on the same grades. It was nice to get 15+MPG in the Sprinter but it was just too cramped and light on power and I think not a good idea to tow a toad with it, particularly in Mts.

The Sprinter actually shut down on the last steep grade enroute to WV when pulling the jeep where it went into limited RPM mode while in 3rd, where I could pull off and let it cool down. I got an engine warning light and it just suddenly dropped to a low RPM which allowed me to pull over right at the top of the grade. After 15 mins or so, I took off and never had another issue but it was the main reason I left the Jeep up here as it just did not seem like a good idea to tow in Mts. No issues at all towing with it in FL or on flat highways.

On Jeep....What is the difference of putting the tranny in 5th vs. neutral, does it really make any difference? I have heard of people accidentally not having their transfer case in neutral, if so, wouldn't you be better off if your tranny was in neutral or does having it in 5th pull enough to be noticeable and a back up warning system to keep you from towing with transfer case engaged?

Scott
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:37 AM   #6
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the reason you put in in 5th gear is that it stops the gears from moving around with the xfer case in neutral. In the very unlikely time if the xfer case "jumps" out of neutral and into gear, having the tranny on high gear will be better than having it in low gear when towing... putting the tranny in neutral will not keep the drive shafts from spinning.
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