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Old 08-20-2014, 09:55 PM   #1
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Ready Brute Elite cable questions

After installing the base plate and running the aircraft cable from the firewall to the front I looked at that "wire ring" sticking out of the front of my Z71... looks like a steel tongue
So how do I or how do you guys hide that steel tongue when you're not in toad mode? I can see me hanging that thing on something while riding in the woods hunting and shooting myself through the windshield (no pun intended)

Question #2, I'm using the Ready Stop also, so I'll be hooking two (2) cables to the brake arm. There's got to be a better way to attach the cables to the brake arm rather than using those two pieces of flat steel that clamp together.

I thought about drilling a hole in the brake arm and using a 1/4" clevis to attach the cables when in use, then simply remove the clevis when not towing. I'm wondering if drilling a 5/16" hole in the brake arm for the clevis would weaken the brake arm? I could tap the brake arm and thread a bolt through the clevis...

Open for suggestions...
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:06 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckstand View Post
After installing the base plate and running the aircraft cable from the firewall to the front I looked at that "wire ring" sticking out of the front of my Z71... looks like a steel tongue
So how do I or how do you guys hide that steel tongue when you're not in toad mode? I can see me hanging that thing on something while riding in the woods hunting and shooting myself through the windshield (no pun intended)

Question #2, I'm using the Ready Stop also, so I'll be hooking two (2) cables to the brake arm. There's got to be a better way to attach the cables to the brake arm rather than using those two pieces of flat steel that clamp together.

I thought about drilling a hole in the brake arm and using a 1/4" clevis to attach the cables when in use, then simply remove the clevis when not towing. I'm wondering if drilling a 5/16" hole in the brake arm for the clevis would weaken the brake arm? I could tap the brake arm and thread a bolt through the clevis...

Open for suggestions...
Buckstand,
Well Sir, I've done just exactly what you're thinking about. I drilled my brake arm and installed a 1/4" pin in it. Then, I re-fabricated the end of the cable by installing a screen door roller and using a cable ferrule and, cinching it up tight against that roller. Now, when the truck (our present toad) is not being towed, that cable end is sitting under the floor mat, and not sticking out the front of the truck, like a steel tongue. That looks seriously awful.

But, I caught some flack on here when I showed what I did in drilling that brake arm. The worry warts said that I'd kill every one on the highway 'cause I drilled that brake arm. Well, that brake arm, on our present toad, which is an '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4, is 3/8" thick by, 1 1/4" wide at that point at which I drilled it. You couldn't BREAK that brake arm, if you pushed on it as hard as you could. You'd break the seat back and, most likely the rest of the seat mounting system, way before you'd break that brake arm.

But, that's ok, no one's forcing them to do my mods. I just like a clean setup down there, just like you do. So, when it comes time for towing, the wife does all the inside stuff, while I do the outside stuff. The final thing she does is, reach under that floor mat, grab the cable end and install it on the pin, on the brake arm. She then secures it on there with a linch pin. DONE! And, I've done it that way on many of my toads for, several thousand miles of trouble free towing and NO BROKEN BRAKE ARMS, IMAGINE THAT!!! It takes a whopping 10 seconds to complete that brake arm attachment!

One of the best benefits of doing it that way is, to me, that cable and cable housing, is not being actuated time and time again, while driving the toad, prematurely wearing on things, THAT DON'T NEED TO BE WORN PREMATURELY!

I've got other mods to the Ready Brake system too. You'll see those in the pictures. If you've got any questions about what I've done, please feel free to PM me. Be glad to help. One of the mods was to replace that "cave man" way of R/B link cable adjustment, with a stainless steel, marine turn buckle. Talk about making infinite adjustments, WITHOUT ANY TOOLS, imagine that!
Scott






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Old 08-20-2014, 11:24 PM   #3
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I don't have an issue with the " steel tongue" hanging out - its pretty tight to the front of my Wrangler. However, I did worry about the tongue of the Ready Brake breakaway cable hanging out there for some kid to yank on and set the brakes. I use a light tie wrap to hold it out of harms way. Its strong enuf to deter idiots but breaks easily in the event of a problem
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:19 AM   #4
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I did the brake pedal end similar to FIREUP. The cable loop that sticks out the front is another part of this Hokey (but easy to use) setup. I made a small metal tab that the cable sheath connects to. That bolts to one of the tubes from the baseplate. It only needs 1 bolt so I used an allen screw. When I am not using the Ready Brake, I remove 1 screw and just push the loop into the grille.
The Ready Brute is a great working, easy to use unit. But I wish they would hire an engineer and cleanup the unit and make it more professional looking. It looks like the only place they could buy parts was Home Depot.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:43 AM   #5
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Now that's what I'm talking about

Looks much better and when you're in the truck the cable is not wearing itself out.....and that tongue is not waving at everybody like a sign saying "Pull Here" or somebody asking, "is that the way you open your hood?"

Thanks Guys!!!
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:59 AM   #6
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I did the brake pedal end similar to FIREUP. The cable loop that sticks out the front is another part of this Hokey (but easy to use) setup. I made a small metal tab that the cable sheath connects to. That bolts to one of the tubes from the baseplate. It only needs 1 bolt so I used an allen screw. When I am not using the Ready Brake, I remove 1 screw and just push the loop into the grille.
The Ready Brute is a great working, easy to use unit. But I wish they would hire an engineer and cleanup the unit and make it more professional looking. It looks like the only place they could buy parts was Home Depot.
az99,
Your comment on "hire an engineer to clean things up" cracked me up. You see, when I developed my system of attaching it to the brake arm and, the stainless steel turn buckle for EASY ADJUSTMENT, I actually showed it to the two representatives at the annual Quartzsite event, held every late January. They agreed with the modifications extensively but, their answer to them was, "we must keep it as low of a cost as possible". "While your mods make total sense, the "Majority" of the do-it-yourselfers" out there would not be able to comprehend that kind of tech.

So, they said thanks for the suggestions. I said, "your welcome" and walked away. So, what you see in todays R/B install, is the same as when they started. Like you stated and I've said many times, it's a great working unit but, the install procedures and looks, leave much to be desired. What really helped during my installation and mods was already having a "Cable ferrule crimp tool". That tool can be had at Home Depot for around $20-$40, I can't remember since it was a years ago when I purchased it. But, it works slick as can be when making up your own cables for things.
Scott
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckstand View Post
After installing the base plate and running the aircraft cable from the firewall to the front I looked at that "wire ring" sticking out of the front of my Z71... looks like a steel tongue
So how do I or how do you guys hide that steel tongue when you're not in toad mode? I can see me hanging that thing on something while riding in the woods hunting and shooting myself through the windshield (no pun intended)

Question #2, I'm using the Ready Stop also, so I'll be hooking two (2) cables to the brake arm. There's got to be a better way to attach the cables to the brake arm rather than using those two pieces of flat steel that clamp together.

I thought about drilling a hole in the brake arm and using a 1/4" clevis to attach the cables when in use, then simply remove the clevis when not towing. I'm wondering if drilling a 5/16" hole in the brake arm for the clevis would weaken the brake arm? I could tap the brake arm and thread a bolt through the clevis...

Open for suggestions...
I got rid of the flat steel plates, drilled a hole in the brake arm, ran both cables (braking and breakaway) through the hole, and secured them with small cable clamps. I had trouble with the cables hanging on the steel plates, keeping my brake partially engaged!
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:39 PM   #8
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az99,
"While your mods make total sense, the "Majority" of the do-it-yourselfers" out there would not be able to comprehend that kind of tech.
High Tech is drilling a hole....I've done a lot of "High Tech" in my life

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Old 08-21-2014, 05:58 PM   #9
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I realize each vehicle is different and some installs are more obvious than others. We are lucky in that due to the configuration of the inside of our Captiva you can't even see the brake pedal/cable connection unless you bend over and look for it, though I did drill a hole into the brake pedal arm and used a clevis for attachment. And the front cable loop for connection to the tow bar cable is located right under our front license plate and is almost not visible unless you know it's there and where to look for it. I've even had to point it out to people when explaining to friends how the system works and how it's all connected.
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Old 08-25-2014, 11:31 AM   #10
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On my Wrangler I have been asked if the tongue is the end of the winch cable.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:06 PM   #11
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the breakaway cable just sits behind the bumper and the front cable loop gets tucked behind the license plate... can't even tell its a tow vehicle. As for the steel plates on the pedal... I dont see it, therefor it doesnt bother me.







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Old 08-28-2014, 06:32 AM   #12
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Great pics and nice install Ferdinand! We just recently completed a trip around Lake Michigan, about 1000 miles, and our ReadyBrute Elite performed just as it should. Easy hook up and reliable, we're very happy with the ReadyBrute!
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