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Old 11-19-2013, 04:40 PM   #1
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Ready Brute Elite Install Question

Hi all,

Researched and pulled trigger on purchase of a Ready Brute Elite breaking system/tow bar. Now in process of installing the cable for the surge break but having diffulties locating exact area to drill through firewall on vehicle. So I am requesting help from any forum member who has installed this system on their GMC Terrain. I am looking for information on where to drill hole for Readybreak cable installation on a 2012 GMC Terrain. If anyone has installed this tow bar/brake system on same vehicle I would appreciate information on exactly where on vehicle firewall to drill hole for cable entry and the routing for cable to front bumber area. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TenBear View Post
Hi all,

Researched and pulled trigger on purchase of a Ready Brute Elite breaking system/tow bar. Now in process of installing the cable for the surge break but having diffulties locating exact area to drill through firewall on vehicle. So I am requesting help from any forum member who has installed this system on their GMC Terrain. I am looking for information on where to drill hole for Readybreak cable installation on a 2012 GMC Terrain. If anyone has installed this tow bar/brake system on same vehicle I would appreciate information on exactly where on vehicle firewall to drill hole for cable entry and the routing for cable to front bumber area. Any help is appreciated.
TenBear,
I can't help with direct experience in your situation on the Terrain. I've done it in a couple of vehicles and, the process of elimination to find the correct spot to drill is about the same on most vehicles. Find a reference point somewhere in the vicinity of where you'd "like" it to go through. Then, while it can be a pain in the a$$, try to measure from your reference point, down and over, up and over, across, or whatever direction you need to go, to get it so that the PULL of the cable, when installed, is as close to being as straight as possible. Sometimes it may be necessary to go right through the side of bracket or some other obstruction. Nobody said it was going to be easy.
Once you've located the possible drill site, then determine if it's dual wall or single wall at that particular spot. If you're lucky, it will be single wall and the housing will attach nicely. Then, as you've seen in my other posts concerning the adaptation of the R/B system to the brake arm, do what's needed to complete that side of the operation. Any questions, surely PM me if you'd like.
Scott
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:17 PM   #3
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I'm almost done with my ready brute install on a 2005 Chevy Colorado 4x4. I did some of the mods outlined here on the brake cable. I had to remove the wheel well liner on the front driver side to allow me to install the part that went thru the firewall but it wasn't too bad just replaced the liner when I finished. As far as the drill location I measured down from the steering column on both sides of the firewall for a reference point. All went fairly smooth. Hope to make my first trial tow run tomorrow. Wish me luck!!!
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:42 PM   #4
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TenBear,
Same here. I don't have direct experience with your vehicle either. Scott responded to me as well when I was asking questions concerning the Brute tow bar and especially the wiring. He also made some suggestions that made the hook-up much easier. His suggestions helped a great deal.

When you think you've located a place to drill your hole it is kind of scary and one does fear making a mistake. Locate a point just beyond where the brake pedal would end up if it could go all the way to the fire wall and drill a hole with a small drill bit. If you're off to much, or run into something and have to move it an inch or two you've not done any damage.
Here's something that may help. Locate a spot where you think the hole should go. Getting it exact is critical. Yes you want the cable to pull as straight as possible so follow the arc of the pedal as somebody pushes on the brakes with the engine running. Once you've picked a spot either tap from the firewall side or from the drivers side to give you an idea where the hole will be located. That will require another person feeling when you tap on the floor or firewall. You will also need to expose the metal floor by removing the carpet. I had to cut a hole (flap) in the carpet but once the cable goes through the flap goes back in place and your floor mat will cover it. If when you tap on the floor the other person can't really feel the tapping you may have the double floor.

Per Scott's suggestion I did not use their hook-up for the cable on the brake pedal. It's to big and awkward. I drilled a 1/4" hole into the brake pedal arm towards the bottom and behind the pedal. I put a small horseshoe shaped metal connector that has threaded pin in it. I don't know what they are called. Go into HD or Lowe's and find where they keep the rope and metal cable. Search through all those connectors and you'll see what I'm talking about. That stays on my brake pedal all the time. Then I made a small loop with the cable and place the small loop through the horseshoe shaped connector and screw in the pin to keep it in place. That's how it's attached to the brake pedal and I leave it connected all the time.

At the tow-bar end I also put a turnbuckle in place of the system that they provide. The turnbuckle gives you the ability to make adjustments if necessary. Once the system is installed we found it necessary to make corrections fro time to time. Once the turnbuckle is adjusted I wrapped electrical tape around it to it wouldn't move.

Hope this helps some.

TeJay
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:27 AM   #5
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Hey TeJay,
Is that you, the great wood worker in Arkansas? If so, any nice wood projects done lately? IF NOT, sorry for the confusion. The connector your speaking of is called a SHACKLE. They make them in all different sizes. We used to have them on the front and back of our Jeeps to be used for towing if and when needed.

The little ones are the ones used in connecting the Ready Brake cable to the actuator and, the front bumper cable if, you've done it the way I do.
Scott

http://http://www.amazon.com/Campbel...5274120&sr=1-7

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Old 11-24-2013, 08:42 AM   #6
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Hi Scott,
Yes it's me the great AR woodworker (LOL). When I saw the post about the Redi-Brute tow bar I thought you might weigh in.
The wiring info you sent me worked out very well. Again many, many thanks.
I've been busting my butt trying to finish the kitchen cabinets before Xmas. I'll send you some pics when I get er done.
I don't want to highjack this thread.

TeJay
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
Hi Scott,
Yes it's me the great AR woodworker (LOL). When I saw the post about the Redi-Brute tow bar I thought you might weigh in.
The wiring info you sent me worked out very well. Again many, many thanks.
I've been busting my butt trying to finish the kitchen cabinets before Xmas. I'll send you some pics when I get er done.
I don't want to highjack this thread.

TeJay
TeJay,
Roger that Sir, awaiting pictures.
Scott
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Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
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