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Old 08-18-2017, 04:54 PM   #29
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Daledrop
I just completed the wiring you describe. I used 2 small LED lights on the dash. I haven't driven it yet but I see no reason it won't work. It should let me fine tune the system.

Great minds ........
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:52 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ront77 View Post
Daledrop
I just completed the wiring you describe. I used 2 small LED lights on the dash. I haven't driven it yet but I see no reason it won't work. It should let me fine tune the system.

Great minds ........


How about the turnbuckle you've got to try incorporating that it will save you a lot of screwing around with those baby cable clamps. I hope to work on mine tomorrow but my wife is going to be using the car tomorrow and will be gone most of the day.
You'll have to let me know how it worked out because it sounds like you will have yours done before me.
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Old 08-19-2017, 12:01 PM   #31
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When I wired my Jeep brake light switch to a dash LED I just used the electric brake wire (blue) in the 7 pin trailer connector since I have no intention of ever pulling a trailer with electric brakes. The white/tan wire on the Jeep brake pedal switch goes hot when you press the Jeep brake pedal so I just connected that to the electric brake wire (blue) of the motorhome 7-pin and then connected the LED to the other end of the wire (blue) under the dash. Pick up a ground anywhere you can.

I also installed a turnbuckle but once you get it set there is no reason to ever change it. If I was starting over I'd probably leave to turnbuckle out, adjust the cable length so I can just unhook the quick clip with the towbar arms full extended and the toad straight behind the motorhome. That's really all it takes. Length is not critical as the Ready Brake lever has a 3.5" pull range. Getting the cable too tight is where most folks make a mistake.

You have to understand that a tighter cable does not mean the toad brakes are more forcefully applied. It just changes the amount of toad movement (toward the RV) required to apply the toad brakes and the amount of that movement is only about a half inch anyway. Regardless of cable length, the brakes will only be applied enough to stop the toad from moving toward the motorhome. There's a video of it here - Ready Brake and Ready Brute Videos - NSA RV Products
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:53 PM   #32
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MH dash LED's

I have done the same as Ront77.
One blue LED wired to Ready Brake s/w and one red LED wired to Honda CRV brake s/w.
Blue will come on during light braking. I then know slack is out of cable. A little more press on MH brakes and red comes on.
This gives me a little more peace of mind knowing braking is OK and nothing locking up. I'v had the Ready Brake for 3 seasons now and am pleased.

Just finished a 1300 mile trip in N. Idaho. Several steep passes some with 6-7% up/down grade for 5 miles. Not much compression braking in a gasser but all went well. Used what I was taught in CDL school. Stab braking. Get in a low gear (I used 2nd). Apply brakes hard until well below safe speed. I used ~38 MPH as safe speed. Braking hard until below 2K RPM (~30 MPH). Let RPM build to 3600 RPM (close to 40 MPH) and then braked hard back to 30 MPH. This method keeps brakes as cool as possible.

Ready Brake worked great. At times blue stayed on but never the red unless braking called for it.
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Old 08-30-2017, 10:38 AM   #33
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I use the Ready Brute elite and just cam back from a 3000 mile plus trip that crossed the continental divide about 8 times. The tower / brake system worked great. We just leave the rear camera on and can see the surge brake actuation on camera and know all is working OK. I have no plans of installing a bunch of other wiring and lights as I do not see the necessity of them, i my personal case. As to tautness of brake cable - I too, initially had it too tight and finally figured out the right amount of slack to allow for ours, dips, etc, while still having full effect of braking. Overall, very pleased with the unit and its simplicity,
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Old 08-31-2017, 04:53 PM   #34
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I just finished driving approximately 400 miles through the hills in Oregon with my toad. I have got my two lights for the brakes on the dash one Amber which is for when the ready break starts to activate. I have a Red light that is for when my Honda CRV starts to break and I have it tied into the brake pedal on the car so I know when the brakes or starting to apply with the turnbuckle Inc. on the brake cable. And I have used the turnbuckle three times now to make fine-tuning of the breaks to get them right where I want them. I have also used a link of bailing wire or call it a tie wire to run through both eyes of the turnbuckle so it will not loosen up when traveling. There is also one of the carabiners is in the eye of the turnbuckle so that I can quick couple to the car cable with no problem.
My problem with the ready brute elite Towbar is that the reason I purchased that bar was the information that I found on it said that it was a no bind towbar. Now and then I am going to be driving the motorhome by myself so I need to be able to unhook it by myself. So I am not happy with the towbar because it binds up if you are not perfectly straight on level Road. I would spend the extra money and put in a M&G brake system with a no bind towbar had I not been falsely letd astray. I haven't had the time to sit down and come up with the literature that I have read saying that it is a no bind towbar and send it to the company.
If they would take it back
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Old 08-31-2017, 05:24 PM   #35
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I'm new to the ready brute elite. Still fine tuning the slack but think I have finally got that adjusted. I have not had the binding experience the last post indicates. I unhook my car every time on an incline that also slants to the side and have had no issues whatsoever unhooking my car on unlevel ground and not being straight.

Daledrob - How level is your tow bar? I got a drop hitch so my hitch is maybe 1" above my clevis connectors.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:42 AM   #36
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My problem with the ready brute elite Towbar is that the reason I purchased that bar was the information that I found on it said that it was a no bind towbar.
I have had a "binding" issue a couple of times when I try to disconnect without being relatively level and straight. I think the reason is that when the arms are locked in tow position and you turn into a parking space there is loading on the arms as they yank the toad around the turn.

On my next trip I'm going to try releasing the arms (red levers) when I go in to check in and then pull the toad to the site with the arms released and see how that does. Of course in that condition I will have no toad brakes and maybe a little toad wander but it shouldn't be a problem going 5MPH thru the CG.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:31 PM   #37
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Just try releasing the red levers when you stop, then push/drive the toad forward an inch or 2 - takes the pressure off from pulling. ST
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:43 PM   #38
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I'm new to the ready brute elite. Still fine tuning the slack but think I have finally got that adjusted. I have not had the binding experience the last post indicates. I unhook my car every time on an incline that also slants to the side and have had no issues whatsoever unhooking my car on unlevel ground and not being straight.



Daledrob - How level is your tow bar? I got a drop hitch so my hitch is maybe 1" above my clevis connectors.


I don't know how new your towbar is but mine is brand new and I have had one heckuva Time trying to get the red levers to release when it comes time to unhook the toad. my Towbar is level I have got a 4 inch drop hitch and it has worked out to where the towbar is sitting very level. And I don't think I should even have to grease it yet because it is still new . If the arms would release then it would be fine the way I have to do it is have my wife rotate the steering wheel from one stop to the other and as the front of the car goes side to side it will find A sweet spot and I can rotate the red handles and then remove the pins.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:54 PM   #39
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I have had a "binding" issue a couple of times when I try to disconnect without being relatively level and straight. I think the reason is that when the arms are locked in tow position and you turn into a parking space there is loading on the arms as they yank the toad around the turn.



On my next trip I'm going to try releasing the arms (red levers) when I go in to check in and then pull the toad to the site with the arms released and see how that does. Of course in that condition I will have no toad brakes and maybe a little toad wander but it shouldn't be a problem going 5MPH thru the CG.


I do believe that if you release your arms when you pull in to check in you will be asking for trouble.
As you pull out your car will be floating with about 12 inches of play.
The first time you slow down your car is going to gently slam into the towbar as it collapses those arms and when you pull forward it's going to do just the opposite. So it will be just floating back there jerking back and slamming forward. Even had 5 miles an hour I believe you will be surprised you'll have to let me know. Thanks for the response
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:02 PM   #40
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Just try releasing the red levers when you stop, then push/drive the toad forward an inch or 2 - takes the pressure off from pulling. ST


That is my problem when I stop I cannot release the levers and there is no going forward or backwards One or 2 inches because the Levers are still locked.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:49 PM   #41
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If you are going to unhook anyway, then just unhook at the check in area.
I've never really had a problem releasing the red levers. Sometimes my wife has to move the CRV up or back a little.
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Old 09-02-2017, 07:20 AM   #42
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Huh.... I've NEVER had trouble releasing the red levers... Agreed - new tow bar shouldn't need greasing yet. I suggest you contact NSA directly, since your issue sounds different than what most of us have experienced. Let us know!
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