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Old 11-22-2013, 10:01 AM   #15
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The other thing it does not tell you is if the toad brakes are activated or partially activated. It would seem that using the existing brake pedal switch or adding one would give all the info you need of the braking system working or not.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:22 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by az99 View Post
The other thing it does not tell you is if the toad brakes are activated or partially activated. It would seem that using the existing brake pedal switch or adding one would give all the info you need of the braking system working or not.
az99,
Yes Sir, you are correct, IF you're talking about the factory switch/trigger that's installed in the R/B actuator. As I stated, it only sends a signal to the LED telling you that the tow bar is still being "surged" on by the toad, not the brakes being applied IN the toad. I too would rather take the time and the effort to utilize the toads brake switch to send the signal to the LED on the dash. That way I'm ASSURED, that the brakes are being applied in the toad. But, there's a couple of problems even with setting that system up.

On our '04 Jeep Rubicon, the brake lights are activated when the ignition is off. On our last toad, an '11 Honda CRV EX-L, the brake lights are also activated with ignition off but, our present toad, an '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4, the brake lights ARE NOT activated with ignition off.

So, if one wanted to have the ultimate assurance that the brakes are being applied in the toad, you'd have to determine if the brake lights are activated with ignition off or on. If ignition off, then it's a matter of doing it the way I described earlier. If "on", then now you've got to figure out how to power the brake light switch without the ignition being left on and causing other issues.
Scott
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Old 11-23-2013, 07:01 AM   #17
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I have a similar deal where the toad battery is disconnected. I will have to look at it closer. Maybe a red LED on the dash connected to a separate switch that could be seen from the rear camera. I want to know if the pedal is pulled or not in the toad.
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:37 PM   #18
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Wow, this forum never ceases to amaze me with the knowledge factor .

To Easyrider: Thank you for the landmark suggestion. That is exactly what I did to find the perfect spot on the firewall.

To; Baraff-I did call NSA but even though they were very eager to assist they did not have the information or documentation to assist me.

To Fire-Up-Outstanding modification on the break pedal setup. I took you list of materials and found them at Home Depot. I am in process of doing the same setup as you. That is exactly what I had been thinking of to eliminate the slack on the cable when not towing. Also makes for a cleaner install.

To all thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and for your encouragements.
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Old 11-23-2013, 03:10 PM   #19
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I have a similar deal where the toad battery is disconnected. I will have to look at it closer. Maybe a red LED on the dash connected to a separate switch that could be seen from the rear camera. I want to know if the pedal is pulled or not in the toad.
az99,
Right on Sir. Many guys have done just that. They've installed the LED on the dash of the toad and at least try to see it from the camera in the coach. My eyes are not what they used to be so, unless that LED on the dash of a toad was a seriously bright one, I'd have a hard time seeing it. Not a bad idea though.

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Originally Posted by TenBear View Post
Wow, this forum never ceases to amaze me with the knowledge factor .

To Easyrider: Thank you for the landmark suggestion. That is exactly what I did to find the perfect spot on the firewall.

To; Baraff-I did call NSA but even though they were very eager to assist they did not have the information or documentation to assist me.

To Fire-Up-Outstanding modification on the break pedal setup. I took you list of materials and found them at Home Depot. I am in process of doing the same setup as you. That is exactly what I had been thinking of to eliminate the slack on the cable when not towing. Also makes for a cleaner install.

To all thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and for your encouragements.
TenBear,
I think I speak for all here. You're certainly welcome. We all started some place and have asked numerous questions regarding a zillion topics about RVs. As I've mentioned before, the Ready Brake system is a good system, cheap and simple. But, the install of some of the components, to me anyway, leaves somewhat to be desired. Hence, my modifications to the system. Below is a picture of the way I attached the cable to the brake arm of our Jeep Rubicon when we used it for a toad. That was my idea at the time. It was mildly better than the R/B system. But, the good part about it was the fact that I could still disconnect it when it was not needed.

The "Pin in the brake arm" idea came later and that is what I use now. Way cleaner and nicer looking than even my first generation of mods to the R/B system.
Scott

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Old 11-27-2013, 07:51 AM   #20
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I installed mine the same way on the brake pedal of my 05 Colorado 4X4. I like being able to de-pin the cable when not towing. I didn't want the cable always sliding in & out thru the casing.
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:56 PM   #21
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I installed mine the same way on the brake pedal of my 05 Colorado 4X4. I like being able to de-pin the cable when not towing. I didn't want the cable always sliding in & out thru the casing.
lavamanz,
Yes Sir, that's one of the primary reasons for my modifications. And the other one is for ease of adjustment, when and if needed. By the way, I talked with representatives from NSA and Ready Brake at Quartzsite after I'd done my install and they were seriously impressed. They said they'd incorporate my modifications if it weren't for the cost. R/B and NSA says they're at the lowest possible cost for an auxiliary braking system as they can get and still have a dependable, working unit and, still have the general public do an install of one without issues. Makes sense to me.
Scott
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:05 PM   #22
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Don't shoot the messenger, please.

If the manufacturer could have reduced the brake pedal lever cross section and maintained mechanical reliability, they would have taken that savings. Drilling a hole through the brake pedal lever may have compromised the strength and reliability of the system. If it would fail in a driving situation, and cause an accident it would be a legal liability problem. In all likely hood it won't fail, but I would never sell or trade the vehicle without replacing it.
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:21 AM   #23
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Don't shoot the messenger, please.

If the manufacturer could have reduced the brake pedal lever cross section and maintained mechanical reliability, they would have taken that savings. Drilling a hole through the brake pedal lever may have compromised the strength and reliability of the system. If it would fail in a driving situation, and cause an accident it would be a legal liability problem. In all likely hood it won't fail, but I would never sell or trade the vehicle without replacing it.

I agree. NSA would have had to drill a hole in EVERY make and model vehicle brake pedal arm, and then test to see if it reduced it's strength to the point it might fail. For those owners who have drilled that hole, you are now Test Pilots. Legal liability aside, it could mean that everybody in the car dies. That brake arm is only as strong as it needs to be. Do I think the brake arm will fail because of a 1/4 inch hole? Probably not, but nobody knows for sure without testing.
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:46 PM   #24
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I was wondering when the subject of "drilling the hole vs weakening the arm" would appear. Well, No one's forcing anyone to do it. So, if you're not liking what you see, then simply don't do it. For those that have NEVER EVER WORKED with metal in their life, and any form of structural integrity of it, whether it be mild carbon steel, any form of Stainless Steel, high carbon steel, etc. to even assume that, that brake arm would fail with a 1/4" hole in it, well, let's just say it will never happen. Not with a humanoid pushing on it anyways.

In fact, you'd break the seat back in the toad you're driving trying to use it for a back stop and pushing on that brake pedal hard enough to even come anywhere near close to the failing point. The mods I created/designed for the R/B install were for me and, anyone that would like a better looking, less intrusive, and cleaner install of a primarily good, well working, auxiliary braking system. This kind of goes along with the ones that think one is going to "FRY" the electrical system of a toad if you tie into the factory lights for toad lights, yeah sure you will.

Again, if you think millions will die because of a 1/4" hole in the brake arm, than I'd surely not do it.
Scott
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:14 PM   #25
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I fretted considerably over saying anything after reading the posts on drilling the brake pedal lever. I finally decided to post up my concerns as mildly as I could, to give others considering this modification some pause that it may not be a great idea.

So far as metals experience: I think that 50 years of forging and heat treatment of steel, stamping, welding, and fabrication of components for International Harvestor, Dana Corporation, Caterpillar, John Deere and a multitude of others give me some small credibility to voice concern.
Again, I did not post to trash anyone, but to give others considering the process an alternative view. I really don't plan to post again on the matter.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:30 PM   #26
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I was wondering when the subject of "drilling the hole vs weakening the arm" would appear.
Me too.
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