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Old 09-06-2012, 05:50 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuraFlap View Post
Diplomat Don has the right idea. Stop the rocks coming off the dually and front tires. That is the majority of the rocks. That also helps protect all the wiring and holding tanks under the coach. Measure the mud flaps to hang just above the ground when your airbags are out and the coach is sitting at it's lowest position. Then they will be as long as possible when you air up and are moving down the road. Make sure the mud flaps are stiff enough to not fly up behind as the coach travels, otherwise they are not doing the job.
The rear mud flap does stop the rest, but can cause some problems also. Make sure it is no lower than 3-4" off the ground. Any closer and it could actually cause rocks to fly up and hit your tow vehicle. Also, make sure it will not get caught between your tow hitch and the ground when you go up a steep driveway, that would tear your mud flap. If necessary find someplace further forward to hang the mud flap from.
The rear mudflap can also add bling to your coach. Make it custom to say somehthing fun, then everyone will know it is your coach as they go by on the way to the next rally.
I am not disputing you and do appreciate your advice, but, ( the damn But word ) would like to add from what I have found after towing for 80,000 plus miles is that farther forward creates a gap between the rear cap and the mud flap and will allow debris through. Thats what I had when I bought my Motorhome and as soon as I closed that gap, per my earlier post, #18, the chips and dings stopped.
I have not had a problem with the mud flap getting cought between the hitch and the ground and causing damage the the flap. It will get caught but it just slides and scuffs up the back side.
There you have my 2 cents worth Dura Flap.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:36 PM   #30
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I have towed with a Gaurd and without. No chips either way. But my toad is a wrangler with a 3 inch lift. Sitting up higher may make a difference.

The toad tires probably kick up more rocks than the MH.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:47 PM   #31
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Have used Ultra guard on the last two units, towing the Focus on the dolly and have had no damage. For an extra measure of safety when towing the mustang, I did put a rock shield on the car hauler.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:14 PM   #32
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Have any of you ever owned a van or anything with a near square back? They suck up dirt like mad and the rear is the first area you notice getting dirty. Now just increase the size to a Motor Home (Regarless of Class) and you get the same thing and it does not matter if it is a DP or not and if you have a Toad behind, the Toad is going to get dirty.

I have a rock guard on the rear of my MH and I think it has prevented rock chips, but does nothing to stop the dust and dirt from getting on the Toad as that big square vacuum drawing it in going down the road.

There is a large selction of options out there, but none are going to keep the Toad Clean. I also have my Toad on a Dolly, does it help? Maybe with rock chips, but not dirt. JM$0.02W
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:28 PM   #33
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When I bought my coach, the previous owner had it set up with good mud flaps behind the rear wheels, and had installed a big mud flap on the back, so that's how I started out. We hooked up our beautiful 2005 Honda Pilot, and practically destroyed it in 5000 miles. That big mudflap was too close to the ground. I cut 4" off of it and it's a lot better. I'm getting ready to cut another 2" or 3" off of it. I'm actually threatening to take it off entirely.

The biggest best thing we did was to buy a Protect-A-Tow. It really does a great job of keeping the big junk off the toad. But it will not stop the sand, and light gravel, and mud, and dirt from churning up and around all about the toad. By the time we get to our destination, we expect the toad to be a mess if the trip has included any rain, gravel roads, or any dirt or dust. The engine compartment of the toad is always full of dirt.

I have a 1/4 mile of gravel road to get to our highway. I can start off with a clean coach and a clean toad. In hot dry weather, no matter how slow I try to do it, by the time I get to the highway the back of the coach is covered in dust. The toad is buried under a layer of gravel dust. We've towed our toad for about 20,000 miles. The windshield is full of tiny gravel dings. It's hard to see through it when you drive against the sun. I may install a new windshield next summer.

I don't see the value of a toad bra. The light dust and gravel would get behind it and chew the paint to pieces. I don't see the value of that shield that you put on the tow bar in front of the toad. Sometimes we'll stop on the road for a break, walk back to the toad, and the front of it is clean. But gravel dust has been swirled up and dropped straight down on the roof and windshield.

The only way I can see that you could keep the toad clean and protected would be to haul it in an enclosed trailer. I consider that to be a bit impractical, so I've resigned myself to accepting a bit of toad damage.

We're not going to stop towing a toad. As far as I'm concerned, the toad is an absolute necessity. Hindsight? I would have hooked up an older, less expensive vehicle so the damage wouldn't affect the value so much.

Most of our Canadian highways have gravel shoulders. Often after a day of highway driving, we'll walk back to find out toad buried under a layer of gravel.

There's my rant. Just my two cents worth. Eh?
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:52 PM   #34
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We're on the same page Jim. We've had similar experiences, and also vowed we'll never own a "show" toad! Practical is the word here?
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:22 PM   #35
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I tow the Ford Focus also. I purchased a front bra and windshield protector and have never had a rock problem. The Georgetown stock mudflaps seem to do a good job keeping road trash off the toad, even mud and dirt.

Something else you might want to consider towing the Focus. As you know, you have to disconnect the negative battery lead when towing. I installed a battery disconnect switch in the negative battery lead and it has been a life saver. Also ran a fused set of wires direct from the battery for powering my BrakeBuddy.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:45 AM   #36
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If you have to pull disconnect or pull a fuse you might like to look at this.

RVpartsPlus
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Old 09-08-2012, 12:37 PM   #37
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The prices on the switches shown in that link are crazy. All but the most expensive one of them could be made from 5-10 dollars worth of parts from any Radio shack....and that one would be just slightly more.
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:22 PM   #38
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Here is how I mounted my Rock Guard. Note: The air bags are deflated in this photo so that the Rock Guard is almost on the ground.
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:48 PM   #39
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Quote:
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The prices on the switches shown in that link are crazy. All but the most expensive one of them could be made from 5-10 dollars worth of parts from any Radio shack....and that one would be just slightly more.
Here is the switch I used. Bought off Ebay for $17.50

Blue Sea Systems 6006 M- Series Mini Battery Switch ON-OFF

Cranking Rating: 10 sec. 1,500 Amps
Cranking Rating: 1 min. 775 Amps
Intermittent Rating: 5 min. 500 Amps
Continuous Rating 300 Amps
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:23 PM   #40
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I got a tow bar rock guard from NSA when I bought the Readybrute tow bar. This is a very heavy flexible screen that goes from the underside of the MH rear bumper to the underside of the toad bumper. It has elastic to accommodate turning. This has worked extremely well for me. No chips on the toad in spite of the roads we've traveled. Only issue is, driving on gravel the toad gets pretty dusty. But no chips. Easy to hook up also. It is about 1/2 way down this page: RV Towing Accessories - NSA RV Products

Oh, I can't be sure about this, but I think this helps the airflow - it doesn't build up between the MH and toad, but rather stays underneath both chassis. This means less air drag from the toad. I cannot tell, by looking at the fuel consumption meter, if I'm towing or not.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:43 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfred622 View Post
I got a tow bar rock guard from NSA when I bought the Readybrute tow bar. This is a very heavy flexible screen that goes from the underside of the MH rear bumper to the underside of the toad bumper. It has elastic to accommodate turning. This has worked extremely well for me. No chips on the toad in spite of the roads we've traveled. Only issue is, driving on gravel the toad gets pretty dusty. But no chips. Easy to hook up also. It is about 1/2 way down this page: RV Towing Accessories - NSA RV Products

Oh, I can't be sure about this, but I think this helps the airflow - it doesn't build up between the MH and toad, but rather stays underneath both chassis. This means less air drag from the toad. I cannot tell, by looking at the fuel consumption meter, if I'm towing or not.
I think you are right about how good it works. My problem is the exhaust exiting out the back. It melted my screen mesh.
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