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Old 08-22-2014, 06:03 PM   #29
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The light is peace of mind for us. The readybrute system and the blue ox base plate have worked great!

2013 Thor ACE 29.22013 Ford Focus SE Hatchback
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:40 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by ProjectPro View Post
RGVTexan - I use "mouse ears", so the Honda's brake light should operate the boat light without further ado.
Looks like your goo to GO! Travel Safe.

04 Horizon QD, 12 Ford Flex, Excalibar, Brake-Pro, ,, Winter Texan, RVin! since 1974
Norm, Donna & Tinker Kat 74 MGB-GT, 75 MGB, 01 Z3
Life is a Timed Event, you only get One Go Around!
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:48 PM   #31
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Im an instrumentation and controls engineer... I like feedback circuits to tell me what the machine is doing. Feedback from the surge unit and the brake pedal is the way to go. I use the two lights to calibrate the length of the cable so that I know when the surge device is active and when I want the toad brakes to activate. Remember, you cant control the surge device... but you can control when the brakes activates and how much you want applied by adjusting the cable. Im not fond of the 2" or 3" slack rule on the cable... it may put you in the right area... but every brake pedal travel is different on different vehicles. I notice... when I was tuning my setup, that on tight turns, the cable gets taught on the guide bars and activated the brake pedal light... no surge lights. So in reality, with the 2"-3" sag rule... the toad was braking going around street corners without any surge activating. IMHO, since my butt arent sensitive enough to detect the toad braking or not, Ill stick with the 2 lights telling me what is happening back there.

2014 Thor Palazzo 33.3 (Melody), Folkstone
2013 Jeep Rubicon, Ready Brute Elite & Currie Ent Baseplate
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