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Old 05-19-2014, 08:46 PM   #15
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The reason why you need the de-rattler is because by design it has a thin body... the readybrute surge system slides and needs room to slide to pull the cable. The thin design gives the surge system the room it needs to slide. As for your drop hitch or extension a regular hitch tightener like the above link works fine as well as it is cheaper and more readily available.

Hope it works out for you Steve...

here's a pic of the de-rattler...

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Old 05-19-2014, 09:58 PM   #16
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One of the things I really like about this forum is I'm always learning something new. For instance, I really don't understand the difference in different vehicle's brake systems. I do know air brakes are different and I'm not asking about those. I thought power brakes are power brakes no matter the vehicle and that if the engine was off, that the brakes would behave the same, that is be harder to push on the brake pedal to enable the vehicle to stop. I never checked when we purchased our ReadyBrute and just figured that it would work and lucky for us it did and still does. Can somebody who knows more about the type of brakes that the Hummer has explain more about the difference in it's brakes and the brakes in a vehicle like mine? Does this mean that if the engine failed while under power you wouldn't have any brakes or would it be just the opposite and even if the engine failed the brakes would still operate as though the engine was still running? Without the engine running I still have brakes but of course have to apply more "leg" power in order to stop. How is the Hummer able to still have power brakes without the engine running? It sounds like a great safety device to me! I don't mean to steal this thread but I'm very curious about this brake situation.
Normal power brakes use the vacuum developed by the engine to assist in applying the brakes. The vacuum reservoir has enough vacuum to enable normal braking a few times after the engine stops producing vacuum, then it requires much more foot pressure to apply the brakes. Evidently the Hummer H3 doesn't rely of engine vacuum, it uses an electric motor to pump hydraulic fluid to create brake boost. It continues to operate even when engine is off. I would imagine it draws energy from the battery, a charge wire between RV and the toad might be needed.
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Old 05-20-2014, 06:51 AM   #17
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Normal power brakes use the vacuum developed by the engine to assist in applying the brakes. The vacuum reservoir has enough vacuum to enable normal braking a few times after the engine stops producing vacuum, then it requires much more foot pressure to apply the brakes. Evidently the Hummer H3 doesn't rely of engine vacuum, it uses an electric motor to pump hydraulic fluid to create brake boost. It continues to operate even when engine is off. I would imagine it draws energy from the battery, a charge wire between RV and the toad might be needed.
Under normal operation when engine is running. The Hydro-boost system use the power steering pump for brake boost. When engine is not running, boost is provided by a electric pump mounted under master cylinder.
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:12 AM   #18
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Under normal operation when engine is running. The Hydro-boost system use the power steering pump for brake boost. When engine is not running, boost is provided by a electric pump mounted under master cylinder.
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It's interesting that the Hummer power brakes are similar to the Hydro-boost "air over hydraulic" power disc brakes on my Cat powered coach.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:04 PM   #19
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It's interesting that the Hummer power brakes are similar to the Hydro-boost "air over hydraulic" power disc brakes on my Cat powered coach.
Thanks for the info.
Mel
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Not sure they are similar. They are hydraulic over hydraulic. The Hummer has a accumulator to activate boost when engine is not running.
Note in service manual says to press brake pedal at least 10 times to relieve pressure in accumulator when servicing it.
My Kodiak chassis motorhome has an electric pump to provide boost if engine is not running.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:28 PM   #20
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[QUOTE=Redridge;2059329]The reason why you need the de-rattler is because by design it has a thin body... the readybrute surge system slides and needs room to slide to pull the cable. The thin design gives the surge system the room it needs to slide. As for your drop hitch or extension a regular hitch tightener like the above link works fine as well as it is cheaper and more readily available.

I think I made another mistake today... I canceled the order from NSA and purchased 2 hitch tighteners from Camping World because they were half the price... I get what you said above now that I see the pic. The ones I got from CW are made by Roadmaster and have a thick bar. Not being sure how much the tow bar slides in towards the hitch, they may be too thick. Guess I'll be headed to Home Depot to see what I can do to modify it...
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:25 AM   #21
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Not sure they are similar. They are hydraulic over hydraulic. The Hummer has a accumulator to activate boost when engine is not running.
Note in service manual says to press brake pedal at least 10 times to relieve pressure in accumulator when servicing it.
My Kodiak chassis motorhome has an electric pump to provide boost if engine is not running.
ronjhall
Apparently not, since the Hydro-boost "air over hydraulic" power brakes on my Magnum chassis motorhome uses a 12V electric pump to provide boost if the engine is not running, (similar to the power brakes on your Kodiak chassis motorhome).
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Old 05-21-2014, 08:30 AM   #22
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I reversed the hitch tightener so that the round bar side is on top and the thick side with the nuts are underneath. This leaves 7/8" of travel for the readybrake. After calling NSA and speaking with Ray again, he said that is just about the right amount of travel for the brakes to work properly. I am going to drill a hole a 1/2" down from the stock hole on the black lever so that if in my travels, the brakes are too much, I can go to the lower hole. I'm hoping this works...
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Old 05-21-2014, 08:33 AM   #23
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Not sure they are similar. They are hydraulic over hydraulic. The Hummer has a accumulator to activate boost when engine is not running.
Note in service manual says to press brake pedal at least 10 times to relieve pressure in accumulator when servicing it.
My Kodiak chassis motorhome has an electric pump to provide boost if engine is not running.
Does this mean that if I pump the brakes at least 10 times that the ngine off power assist will be negated?
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Old 05-21-2014, 08:36 AM   #24
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I think I made another mistake today... I canceled the order from NSA and purchased 2 hitch tighteners from Camping World because they were half the price... I get what you said above now that I see the pic. The ones I got from CW are made by Roadmaster and have a thick bar. Not being sure how much the tow bar slides in towards the hitch, they may be too thick. Guess I'll be headed to Home Depot to see what I can do to modify it...
honestly, there is nothing like the de-rattler out there. I dont know why NSA doesnt have it come with their surge brakes (they should). I put a regular hitch tightener on there to see how it fits and it looks like that it is a good possiblity that it might hit.... I didnt want to chance it limiting the surge slide so I bought one... I have to say, Im very happy with my setup and it has been very predictable with a couple of adjustment.

I would take your MH and toad to an empty parking lot... make a tight turn and stop. Go outside and see if the cable is hitting the cable guard (this is how the cable frays). If so, loosen it till the rubbing lessens.
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:04 AM   #25
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Does this mean that if I pump the brakes at least 10 times that the ngine off power assist will be negated?
I do not know. I copied the info from a Hummer service manual. My son has a 2006 Hummer H3. Was looking at that section of my service manual for this info. 2008 H3 service manual shows a system with a motor to provide boost to the accumulator. That makes 2008 similar to my Kodiak chassis. When you step on brake pedal with engine off. Do you hear a motor running or hissing sound? You may have to do it several times to get pump running. I would do some looking on a Hummer forum for the correct answer.
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:16 AM   #26
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honestly, there is nothing like the de-rattler out there. I dont know why NSA doesnt have it come with their surge brakes (they should). I put a regular hitch tightener on there to see how it fits and it looks like that it is a good possiblity that it might hit.... I didnt want to chance it limiting the surge slide so I bought one... I have to say, Im very happy with my setup and it has been very predictable with a couple of adjustment.

I would take your MH and toad to an empty parking lot... make a tight turn and stop. Go outside and see if the cable is hitting the cable guard (this is how the cable frays). If so, loosen it till the rubbing lessens.
I put a De-rattler on my Ready Brute Elite during my visit to the factory in April. Made a difference in how the system works. Plus no thumping of towbar in receiver.
I put a piece of plastic tubing over cable where it goes threw the cable guard. No wear on cable with it in place. You do not want cable making brakes activate when making turns. This will cause undue wear to toad brakes. The thread I linked earlier was started because OP had to replace his toad brakes twice because cable was to tight.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:06 AM   #27
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you have to much slack on your tow bar and hitch... try using NSA de-rattler, it will tighten up your system... and if you have extension, use hitch tighteners, they will keep your eyelets from deforming and help you calibrate the brake cable length better.

RV Towing Accessories - NSA RV Products



Amazon.com: StowAway Hitch Tightener: Automotive

Here is another option.

Anti-Rattle Locks | etrailer.com
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