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Old 05-17-2014, 12:26 PM   #1
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Readybrake help please

So I hooked up the toad for our maiden test drive of our new Ready Brute Elite set up. Everything went together fine. The lights worked and the tow bar was nice and level. Driving was fine. As soon as I went to brake to stop, the tow bar and toad started to jerk hard like there was too much brake on the toad. So I put more slack in the cable between the ready brake and the eyelet on the bumper. Then the brakes didn't engage. So then I gave it less slack, but not as tight as the first setting, and it was better, but still jerked on rolling stop.

When I took the toad off the tow bar, I noticed that the baseplate tabs are now both slightly bent so that they are more open now. Will that be a problem? I don't think it's a toad issue as there isn't anything hanging up on the brake cable in the car... The eyelet moves in and out very easily when you pull on it...

I don't want to assume that I have to keep adjusting the black cable until it works properly, because I don't want to do any more damage. If anyone has run into this and knows how to fix it, please let me know. I'm leaving on Thursday for a 6 hour trip and want to have this fixed before we leave. Thank you!
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:31 PM   #2
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Check the instructions that came with your ReadyBrute. If I remember correctly you should have about 2" of vertical slack in the cable before it starts to engage the brakes. So adjust the cable accordingly and you should be ok.
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:46 PM   #3
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Did you repeatedly press the brake pedal in the toad to bleed off the vacuum reservoir? You would still get full power brakes for the first couple of applications of the brakes if you didn't.
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:01 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
Did you repeatedly press the brake pedal in the toad to bleed off the vacuum reservoir? You would still get full power brakes for the first couple of applications of the brakes if you didn't.
No I did not. When you say "repeatedly", how many times or what am I looking to feel? Sounds worth trying to see what it does. Thank you.

I adjusted and readjusted the cable to only allow for 2" of vertical slack before the brake lights come on, however the best results so far have come with changing the way I am used to braking.
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:03 PM   #5
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Usually 4-6 hard applications of the brake pedal will bleed off the vacuum assist. The pedal will start to feel 'hard' when the vacuum assist is gone.
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:49 AM   #6
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There is a good thread on another forum on adjusting the Ready Brake.
ReadyBrute braking problems--Follow-up
I installed the turnbuckle described in the above link. Makes adjustments very easy.
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:51 AM   #7
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you have to much slack on your tow bar and hitch... try using NSA de-rattler, it will tighten up your system... and if you have extension, use hitch tighteners, they will keep your eyelets from deforming and help you calibrate the brake cable length better.

RV Towing Accessories - NSA RV Products



Amazon.com: StowAway Hitch Tightener: Automotive

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Old 05-19-2014, 11:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
Did you repeatedly press the brake pedal in the toad to bleed off the vacuum reservoir? You would still get full power brakes for the first couple of applications of the brakes if you didn't.
I spoke with Ray from ReadyBrake this morning. He said that the H3 has non fading continous power brakes, so what you are suggesting to do is not possible on this vehicle.

As a result, Ray's suggestion was to drill a second hole on the black plunger arm (of the Readybrake) about a 1/2" below the stock hole and put the clevis for the cable in it. His thought being that with a lessor fulcrom, it might stop the hard braking.

I am also going to get a turnbuckle and try it that way vs. the standard cable. My cable is already fraying where it goes through the slot. Ray said he's seen the modification, and thinks its a good idea, as long as the turnbuckle is not too heavy.

As for the "slop" on the tow bar, drop hitch, and hitch recevier... It was one of the first things I checked... and it's really a very solid connection. I will let you know after I drill the second hole and install the turnbuckle...
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:50 AM   #9
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I wasn't aware of the brakes on an H3. I think reducing the fulcrum might be the only way to go, but it will require careful adjustment. You might also contact Hummer and see if there is a fuse you can pull to disable the power brakes while towing.
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Usually 4-6 hard applications of the brake pedal will bleed off the vacuum assist. The pedal will start to feel 'hard' when the vacuum assist is gone.
BFlinn
You are right.

However it is important to note that the "4-6 hard applications of the brake pedal", are of the brake pedal in the TOAD, (NOT the coach brake pedal), and that the toad's engine must be OFF for it to work!
And that it will not work on all toads.

Some owners may not know that.

Mel
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mel s View Post
BFlinn
You are right.

However it is important to note that the "4-6 hard applications of the brake pedal", are of the brake pedal in the TOAD, (NOT the coach brake pedal), and that the toad's engine must be OFF for it to work!
And that it will not work on all toads.

Some owners may not know that.

Mel
Mel, I agree, I should have told more. Doing a bit of reading, found out the Hummer has 'active' or 'continuous power assist' brakes, you can't bleed off the vacuum to stop the power assist. Roadmaster has a pressure reducer for their air operated supplementary brake system.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...RM-900002.html
I fear using a cable operated brake is always going to be an issue since it's mechanical instead of inertia controlled. I'm not sure Readybrake is the right type of brake for a Hummer.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
I fear using a cable operated brake is always going to be an issue since it's mechanical instead of inertia controlled. I'm not sure Readybrake is the right type of brake for a Hummer.
I called NSA again and am waiting for a call back from Todd the owner. If you are correct, that is going to be a major bummer...
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:03 PM   #13
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One of the things I really like about this forum is I'm always learning something new. For instance, I really don't understand the difference in different vehicle's brake systems. I do know air brakes are different and I'm not asking about those. I thought power brakes are power brakes no matter the vehicle and that if the engine was off, that the brakes would behave the same, that is be harder to push on the brake pedal to enable the vehicle to stop. I never checked when we purchased our ReadyBrute and just figured that it would work and lucky for us it did and still does. Can somebody who knows more about the type of brakes that the Hummer has explain more about the difference in it's brakes and the brakes in a vehicle like mine? Does this mean that if the engine failed while under power you wouldn't have any brakes or would it be just the opposite and even if the engine failed the brakes would still operate as though the engine was still running? Without the engine running I still have brakes but of course have to apply more "leg" power in order to stop. How is the Hummer able to still have power brakes without the engine running? It sounds like a great safety device to me! I don't mean to steal this thread but I'm very curious about this brake situation.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:17 PM   #14
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We'll, I spoke to Todd the owner of Readybrake this afternoon. After hearing the problem, he asked me to lift up on the tow bar and let him know how much movement there was. There was a lot more movement than I thought... he told me the problem is the slop. I ordered 2 derattlers from him. Sorry Redridge...Good diagnosis! One for the drop hitch and one for the Readybrake. He told me the power assist is not a problem, and in fact was helpful. Since we plan on going away Friday morning, I had him ship them two day air. Two de-rattlers at $40 each + Two day air... Priceless!
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