Community Forums

RetiredBob · 07-01-2012, 07:13 AM

I pull my '07 Saturn Vue using the ReadyBrute tow bar/braking system. A month ago I took it to my mechanic for a brake job, and he said the brake pads were badly scorched. He suggested that maybe the ReadyBrute cable was too tight, cause the pads to drag and overheat, so I loosened the cable. Last week, after a 200-mile round trip with the motor home and toad, I heard what sounded like a bad bearing in the left front wheel of the Saturn. Took it back to my mechanic who determined it was a bad bearing and, in the process, saw again that the front pads were badly scorched and worn (the excess heat may have caused the bad bearing). I've checked the cable from the brake peddle to the front of the Saturn and that doesn't seem to be sticking or hanging up. Mechanic says it "could" be the caliper pistons are sticking after they get warm, but doubts that both fronts would be doing it. Has anyone else had this problem, or have any ideas? Is it possible that the slide mechanism in the ReadyBrute (that pulls the brake cable when the motor home brakes are applied) is sticking? Any other thoughts? TIA.

baraff · 07-01-2012, 07:35 AM

Bob, do you have the LED brake light indicator hooked up? If so, does it only activate on braking or do you notice it at other times, such as cornering, turns, etc?
It sure sounds like an adjustment problem.
If you don't have the indicator installed it might be a good visual aid to consider.
Also, have you called NSA for assistance? They may have run into this before.
Maybe consider purchasing a infrared handheld thermometer? I have one I use to check wheels temps after long drives. Cost about $30.
Good luck and let us know what you find?

lavamanz · 07-01-2012, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RetiredBob

I pull my '07 Saturn Vue using the ReadyBrute tow bar/braking system. A month ago I took it to my mechanic for a brake job, and he said the brake pads were badly scorched. He suggested that maybe the ReadyBrute cable was too tight, cause the pads to drag and overheat, so I loosened the cable. Last week, after a 200-mile round trip with the motor home and toad, I heard what sounded like a bad bearing in the left front wheel of the Saturn. Took it back to my mechanic who determined it was a bad bearing and, in the process, saw again that the front pads were badly scorched and worn (the excess heat may have caused the bad bearing). I've checked the cable from the brake peddle to the front of the Saturn and that doesn't seem to be sticking or hanging up. Mechanic says it "could" be the caliper pistons are sticking after they get warm, but doubts that both fronts would be doing it. Has anyone else had this problem, or have any ideas? Is it possible that the slide mechanism in the ReadyBrute (that pulls the brake cable when the motor home brakes are applied) is sticking? Any other thoughts? TIA.

What is the slack you have in the cable before the brake pedal in the car begins to depress? I was told it should be 2-3" when I talked to the tech.

RetiredBob · 07-01-2012, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lavamanz

What is the slack you have in the cable before the brake pedal in the car begins to depress? I was told it should be 2-3" when I talked to the tech.

Well, I followed the instructions, which said to tighten the cable until the brake lights came on, then loosen just enough for the lights to go off. Based on your comment and others on another forum (and my problem), that's too tight. I'll loosen it more. Thanks.

Dave Leeper · 07-01-2012, 12:34 PM

Thanks for the heads up

I have the same thing on the jk jeep. when and if you ever find out what happen please post your findings,

LandKinaMoho · 07-02-2012, 12:01 AM

I say issues if the monitor light is not installed also cable needs enough slack @ maximum radius turn otherwise brakes will be on when cornering. I found out the hardway lol.

Wizard · 07-02-2012, 06:15 AM

I rigged a light and cable that I could plug into the brake circuit receptical on the rear of my Explorer and place the light on the dash of the Explorer so that I can see it with the rear view camera monitor.

Just because the indicator light on the dash is on does not mean that the brakes are applied. Has a lot to do with the cable adjustment.

That's a good way to set the adjustment.

When slow driving around town, I don't want the towd brakes applied every time I come to a traffic tight. Mine also will turn the indicator light on when descending a steep hill so I have it adjusted to compensate.

RetiredBob · 07-18-2012, 02:59 PM

Here's a follow-up. Loosened the braking cable to the toad so there is now 2-3" of slack. Connected the original ReadyBrake LED dashboard indicator directly to the brakelight switch on the toad. Just brought the MH back from storage towing the toad--the LED comes on only when I brake aggressively, not when I apply light pressure. I'll continue to keep an eye on brake temps with an infrared gun. Thanks again for all the help.

Wanabee FTer · 07-18-2012, 03:35 PM

I've mentioned this before on another thread and this thread seems appropriate to mention it again.

Someone needs to design/fabricate a gauge that mounts to the readybrake on the activation lever. It would read 0-100% of activation so you could fine tune the brake cable. It would be dash mounted on your RV so you could monitor it in real time so you would be able to tell how much the toad is actually braking. I suspect you would adjust the cable so that the gauge does not show over 80% activation during a hard stop.

Anyone out there up to the task?

I offer my services as beta tester for anyone that can do this.

shaman52 · 07-18-2012, 03:58 PM

Is it possible the factory brake return spring is not strong enough to return the pedal fully? I remember reading something about a bungee cord being required in some cars to assure that happens. Connect seat bracket to pedal with bungee cord.