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Old 12-04-2013, 05:20 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Easyrider View Post
Cindy, you purchased your ReadyBrute about the same time we did, so you probably have the newest version of it like ours. On the arms of your tow bar are some zerk grease fittings that allow you to lubricate the arms. We had some problems getting our tow bar arms to lock up also the first couple times we used it. I pumped some grease into the arms and they have worked great eversince. The owners manual says they should get lubed 2 or 3 times a year, more if you're in rainy and or dusty conditions more than normal. Give it a try and hopefully your problem will go away.
I'm wondering if this locking thing is a common problem with the ReadyBrute tow bars. The newer versions of the Blue-OX and the Roadmaster say that they are easy to hook and unhook on uneven ground,do you have any problems hooking up the ReadyBrute if the ground is not exactly level? It's good that they have the grease fittings and that greasing them makes them lock easier.>>>>>Alan
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:19 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Easyrider View Post
Cindy, you purchased your ReadyBrute about the same time we did, so you probably have the newest version of it like ours. On the arms of your tow bar are some zerk grease fittings that allow you to lubricate the arms. We had some problems getting our tow bar arms to lock up also the first couple times we used it. I pumped some grease into the arms and they have worked great eversince. The owners manual says they should get lubed 2 or 3 times a year, more if you're in rainy and or dusty conditions more than normal. Give it a try and hopefully your problem will go away.
Maybe some packing material is caught up in locking mechanism. Fairly simple system. I have never tore mine down. But should. Easyrider, do you have a picture showing where the grease fittings are?
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:38 AM   #17
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Another vote for the Readybrute. I'm very happy with mine. Never had a problem with either of the tow arms failing to lock up properly. Very easy to attach the tow bar to the car.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:49 AM   #18
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Cindy,
No one's answering your question. You're having a problem with ONE ARM of the tow bar. And, to be specific, it's the locking mechanism. Most of those locking mechanisms are actually quite simple in design. We purchased a Blue Ox Aladdin used off ebay and, while the operation of the locking mechanisms did seem to work ok, me being me, I disassembled both locking mechanisms, cleaned and inspected them for wear and whatever possible issues that may be developing inside the system that you cannot normally see into. All was well.

As for yours, well if you've got warranty, then in all reality this should be a no-brainer for the company, just replace it. Although getting some companies to perform warranty replacement might be harder than getting the new Obama health care program to work. If you don't have warranty, then, I don't know how mechanical you are or, anyone you know but, it might not be that hard to disassemble that locking mechanism to figure out why it's having such a hard time locking up. Based on what you're describing, it sounds as if the lock in point, however designed, is just not in sync with the locking lever. Not knowing how yours works, I'm only guessing here. Too bad you're not close.

If that doesn't appeal to you then, I'd surely take it to a reputable RV repair/service center of your choice and have it analyzed as to why it's malfunctioning. Good luck and, do report back if you find out why it's doing what it's doing.
Scott
Thank you, Scott. I sure appreciate that!

However, I will try the lubrication first as now they actually SAY something about that on NSAs website...they don't mention the arm problem specifically, but since 2 or more people have correlated that here I will try it first. After lubrication I will keep practicing hooking up to see if it still hangs up. If it does I will demand a replacement from the company...after all, I did already call them once about the problem. They should understand that unless I am using my rig as a daily driver...I'm not going to have many opportunities to hook it up that often. That last was in Sept. when I was returning from my trip. And that's when I called them.
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Old 12-04-2013, 12:23 PM   #19
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Thank you, Scott. I sure appreciate that!

However, I will try the lubrication first as now they actually SAY something about that on NSAs website...they don't mention the arm problem specifically, but since 2 or more people have correlated that here I will try it first. After lubrication I will keep practicing hooking up to see if it still hangs up. If it does I will demand a replacement from the company...after all, I did already call them once about the problem. They should understand that unless I am using my rig as a daily driver...I'm not going to have many opportunities to hook it up that often. That last was in Sept. when I was returning from my trip. And that's when I called them.
Cindy,
Roger that young lady. It's too bad things like this happen. But, whenever it's "man made", there's potential for "screw up". And, while 99.9% of the tow bars out there are problem free, you managed to get the less than one percent "screw up" one. Now, if and when you ever get this one fixed or, manage to DEMAND a new one, the method of locking each side of the tow bar I use is extremely simple. I hook everything up, tow bar, cables, Ready Brake, pig tail etc. and, then, when it comes time to drive away, I watch my rear view camera and, slowly pull away with a slight right turn, then a slight left turn and that, ONEHUNDRED PERCENT OF THE TIME, locks both sides of the tow bar within about 20-30 feet.

Then, a slight application of the brakes while viewing the rear view monitor will reveal whether one side or the other has not locked. If one is not locked, the pressure of the surge of the toad, will force the unlocked one to show itself in the monitor. But, I've never had ours not lock in using this method. Good luck and again, please post what your remedy is.
Scott
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:28 PM   #20
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Maybe some packing material is caught up in locking mechanism. Fairly simple system. I have never tore mine down. But should. Easyrider, do you have a picture showing where the grease fittings are?
I don't have a picture, but if you look at the picture "dogpatch" supplies in his message the grease fittings are on the bottom of each arm within about an inch of the black "hockey pucks" on the underside of the red locking levers.It only takes a couple pumps with a grease gun and you're good to go. I pm'd Cindy with the info and suggested that any auto service shop could do it for her and probably at minimal cost.
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:13 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Easyrider View Post
I don't have a picture, but if you look at the picture "dogpatch" supplies in his message the grease fittings are on the bottom of each arm within about an inch of the black "hockey pucks" on the underside of the red locking levers.It only takes a couple pumps with a grease gun and you're good to go. I pm'd Cindy with the info and suggested that any auto service shop could do it for her and probably at minimal cost.
Here is a link to the Ready Brute Elite instruction booklet.

http://www.readybrake.com/instructio...BruteElite.pdf

Here is an excerpt photo of the grease nipple location.


Click image for larger version

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Old 12-04-2013, 09:35 PM   #22
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Thanks for the assist Dogpatch! Excellant photo of the location of the grease zerk. And as I already stated, once we pumped some grease into the locking mechanisms we never had anymore problems getting the arms to lock into position. I'm actually puzzled as to why NSA didn't suggest this to Cindy in the first place.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:42 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Easyrider View Post
Thanks for the assist Dogpatch! Excellant photo of the location of the grease zerk. And as I already stated, once we pumped some grease into the locking mechanisms we never had anymore problems getting the arms to lock into position. I'm actually puzzled as to why NSA didn't suggest this to Cindy in the first place.
As am I!
I found this same pic on their website yesterday.
Perhaps after I called them in September they got more calls? And decided to post this, but didn't want to admit anything could be wrong? IDK
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:09 AM   #24
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We are in the process of equipping our 2014 Jeep Wrangler to be flat towed and would like your opinions pros and cons on the Ready Brute Elete tow bar and the Ready Brake system. Are the aluminum tow bars as strong as their steel counterparts ? Do the attachment points wear easier where they are aluminum.? Is the breaking system as good as one of the more expensive electronic units ? All responses and comments will be greatly appreciated. Thanks ... Alan
Alan, I use the Ready Brute Elite with a Ford Ranger. Only used it 3 times but love it. My friend has been using one for a few years with no issues. The integrated brake is nice and simple. When I first installed the unit I had a friend drive the tow vehicle while I sat in the toad and observed the brake activation to make sure It was properly adjusted. Works like a champ. Also, I recommend adding a light for your MH dash hooked to the toad brake switch so you can monitor when the toad brakes are being activated. This light is in addition to the Ready Brake activation light which lights upon activation of the Ready Brake mechanism. Once you're adjusted you shouldn't have to mess with the cables again unless you see the cable has maybe stretched. A simple readjustment. Highly recommend the Ready Brute Elite.
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:57 AM   #25
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Thank you to all who responded to this thread. We have purchased a new ReadyBrute and it should be arriving on Monday. Now all I have to do is install the base plate so I can use it . I chose the Blue-Ox base plate even though I really liked the one from Roadmaster the best. Don't know why but I just did.The salesperson at the Hitching Post talked me into the Blue-Ox and I'm sure I will be happy with my decision.... Alan
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:30 AM   #26
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Thank you to all who responded to this thread. We have purchased a new ReadyBrute and it should be arriving on Monday. Now all I have to do is install the base plate so I can use it . I chose the Blue-Ox base plate even though I really liked the one from Roadmaster the best. Don't know why but I just did.The salesperson at the Hitching Post talked me into the Blue-Ox and I'm sure I will be happy with my decision.... Alan
I never looked at anything but the Blue-Ox mounting plates so I can't comment if anything would have been better. I know that mine fit perfectly and have not been an issue whatsoever in the towing process, so I'm really happy with the fit to the Ready Brute Elite.
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:57 AM   #27
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We are in the process of equipping our 2014 Jeep Wrangler to be flat towed and would like your opinions pros and cons on the Ready Brute Elete tow bar and the Ready Brake system. Are the aluminum tow bars as strong as their steel counterparts ? Do the attachment points wear easier where they are aluminum.? Is the breaking system as good as one of the more expensive electronic units ? All responses and comments will be greatly appreciated. Thanks ... Alan
All pros and no cons with this system and in MO, there isn't a better one out there. Naturally you can always do some things better and thats the fun of it all.
I made a quick disconnect at the brake pedal for instance. I installed a turnbuckle inline for the outside hookup for ease of fine adjustments, if necessary and used it once or twice shortly after installation. I forced some nuts over the baseplate pins, so they wouldn't gouge the metal around the holes, but a different style would probably work even better. I would probably also recommend filing 45 degree angles for the cable guide on the towbar ass'y. No biggie, but it might keep the cable vinyl from fraying which is not big deal either, as it doesn't affect the cable itself or hasn't so far anyway.
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:58 AM   #28
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