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Old 07-17-2016, 06:49 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
As I mentioned earlier, I've never heard of one of these failing! Anyone else?
No, I've never heard of one of these failing. IMO there are too many people on these forums who throw out generalities like "steel is better than aluminum" without any knowledge of the engineering environment in which the metal is being used. Just remember that the Ford F-150 for the past couple of years introduced huge amounts of aluminum into what had been a largely steel body. I'm sure someone here will tell me how stupid that was, but I have a hunch that Ford researched the issue very carefully before making the change.

Unintentionally, I put my ReadyBrute through a severe test a couple of years ago when one of the pins disconnected and my toad was only held by one of the legs of the towbar. Fortunately, other than a couple of scratches on the bar, nothing else seemed amiss after we went a block or two like that before we became aware of the problem.
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Old 07-17-2016, 09:08 PM   #30
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that is funny... spent 20+ years as a mechanical engineer and another 20+ years as an automation and it engineer i have known and seen enough on the issue. starting in 1986, mercedes introduced aluminum alloy engine casing on 603 engine; apart from a complete cast iron one. but, have you ever seen an engine crank shaft made of aluminum alloy? if you say yes, i would like to see the evidence to gain the knowledge. up to now, most of the crank shafts are made of either forged or casted steel. why? mainly because steel has adequate strength, toughness, hardness, and high fatigue strength while aluminum alloy does not. ford is a late comer on this; it has nothing to brag about.

roadmaster uses all steel on the tow bar components, we don't hear the mishaps. how many occurrences of blue ox tow bar being snagged are reported? because they use aluminum alloy. readybrute, on the other hand, apparently has studied well and know more than you do or i do, and came up with aluminum tubing with steel bars, a hybrid. it appears a smart design.

i would be glad to be educated if you have something new to show me, and i have no interest in going further on metallurgy. whatever one chooses is your/his/her preference not mine. good luck and happy towing.
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Old 07-27-2016, 02:23 PM   #31
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Readybrake Failure
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:02 PM   #32
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As I read the article, it was a cable failure not a tow bar or surge brake failure.
Plus it sounded like human error (somewhere) was the likely cause of the failure.
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Old 07-28-2016, 05:30 AM   #33
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As I read the article, it was a cable failure not a tow bar or surge brake failure.
Plus it sounded like human error (somewhere) was the likely cause of the failure.
I came to the same conclusion.
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Old 07-28-2016, 06:17 AM   #34
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I came to the same conclusion.
Same.
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Old 07-28-2016, 04:07 PM   #35
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Thats my thread. After having talked with the factory they believed that they likely failed to crimp the ferrules tightly enough. I agreed with that as a tight ferrule should cause damage to the Jeep / locked brakes well before those ferrules let go.

In fairness to them they owned up to it and admitted that they had seen this before and that it would likely be the subject of an all hands training session for the company.

This is a great opportunity to point out the periodic inspections of established systems really are a must and thorough testing and check outs of new installations should be done. I am glad that we found this during the test session and not during an actual trip.

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Old 07-29-2016, 08:44 AM   #36
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Thats my thread. After having talked with the factory they believed that they likely failed to crimp the ferrules tightly enough. I agreed with that as a tight ferrule should cause damage to the Jeep / locked brakes well before those ferrules let go.

In fairness to them they owned up to it and admitted that they had seen this before and that it would likely be the subject of an all hands training session for the company.

This is a great opportunity to point out the periodic inspections of established systems really are a must and thorough testing and check outs of new installations should be done. I am glad that we found this during the test session and not during an actual trip.

John
That speaks well for NSA! Not many companies would admit to the mistake!
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Old 07-29-2016, 03:59 PM   #37
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That speaks well for NSA! Not many companies would admit to the mistake!
Agreed.
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:09 PM   #38
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Fifth year with a Ready Brute Elite and about 20,000 miles pulling a Honda Accord and CRV. The bar is rated at 8,000 lbs. capacity and isn't the limiting factor of my towing capacity.

Down hill in my gasser I'll get a flicker from time to time but very little if any actually toad braking when using the engine to hold the coach speed down.

Besides the problem referenced by CountryFit I've only read of one additional problem with the bar/break set up and that one was a install failure caused by a RV Service Center.
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:27 PM   #39
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I replaced my Blue Ox tow bar that snapped in half with a ReadyBrute. It is twice the tow bar and brake system my Blue Ox was at 1/2 the price. The brake cable changes over to a new toad easily, or purchase a new cable and all hardware for $79.00. We have about 40,000 trouble free miles with the Ready Brute and now on the 3rd toad.
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Old 08-21-2016, 11:02 PM   #40
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In part due to all the positive reports on the forum I went with the Ready Brute system this Spring. Very pleased so far - about 5k miles logged towing 3300# Suby Forester behind Sprinter-based Prism "B+", including recent trip thru Colorado Rockies. ST
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