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Old 12-02-2009, 02:01 PM   #1
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RoadMaster Base Plate Install & Lights

Hello,

Just purchased a 2002 S10 Manual Transmission pickup to use as a towable.

I am thinking about installing the Roadmaster Base Plates myself. This can't be too bad can it? All I need is a heater and some time. I am pretty mechanical so I think I can handle it.

Now! About the wiring, not sure if I want to mess with the diodes. I was thinking about getting the Magnetic Lights and just plug them into the RV.

I would be interested in using the additional bulb socket wiring kit, but what if I don't have a extra socket available? Can I make one?

Thanks,

Brandon
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Old 12-02-2009, 03:14 PM   #2
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Brandon, concerning the lights, I didn't want to wire for lights either so I purchased a set of LED wireless magnetic tow lights. They work very well although the batteries last about 24 hours of continuous running. They take four AA batteries each and the rechargeable ones I have tried don't seem to have enough voltage output to properly run the lights ( I think they at all 1.2 volts vice 15 volts for regular AA). The only other problem is some slight scratching to the top of the car. The wireless unit works great, you plug it into you MH trailer plug and it send the signal to the lights.

After shopping around I found the best price at UHaul > I bought them from their online site. Service was good. I believe I paid about $100.00 for them It's a bit more that the wired type but it's nice not having the wires running the length of the car. I just looked at their site and the price has gone up to $159.95. I guess I got a good buy. U-Haul moving supplies: Wiring & lights

On my Hoinda CRV I installed the roadmaster baseplates myself. It was a simple job and the parts fit precisely. The hardest part was removing the plastic work in the frontend.

Good Luck

Dave
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Old 12-02-2009, 03:29 PM   #3
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Brandon, if you follow the directions, it isn't too hard. You may have to take some stuff off the front of your toad and may have to drill a few holes, but this should not be a problem.

On the lights, if you get a kit, just follow the directions. I don't like the magnetic lights. I always worry they will fall off. The kits with the diodes work great and you don't have to find a place to store the lights when you stop. I just finished installing a towing set up on my third toad.

Like the man said "if all else fails, read the instructions". Have fun.
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Old 12-02-2009, 03:57 PM   #4
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Those wirless lights are nice. I would be worried about someone stealing them.

dajudge,

Are you talking about the Roadmaster Universal Wiring Kit?

I don't think the brackets will be all that bad, and I definitly don't want to pay camping world $200-350 to have them installed. Last time I had them hook up the brackets and wiring on my 1995 Cabrio, I left there without the vehicle running!

Thanks,

Brandon
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:16 PM   #5
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I have installed two baseplate myself on Honda CR-Vs. The 1999 was very easy and about a 45 minute job. The 2007 CR-V took much longer but was a clean install. I have wired diodes in toads, but in my last install I went for the separate bulbs and I'm glad I did. Diodes have a voltage drop that makes the lights a little dimmer while the separate bulbs are bright. I bought a Blue Ox kit (Roadmaster sells the same kit), drilled holes in the tail light assemblies and snapped in the new bulb holders.
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:36 PM   #6
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If you go to the Blue Ox website, you can see the installation instructions for all their baseplates. I assume Roadmaster has the same.
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:45 AM   #7
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Yes, Roadmaster has the same. Installation on my Explorer was fairly easy and everything fit without drilling.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:41 AM   #8
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As far as the wiring, what all is included on the taillight wiring kit? Does it include everything I need? Depending on the space, I may got this route.

The bracket installation doesn't look too bad:

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Old 12-03-2009, 12:25 PM   #9
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The parts diagram is nice, but what you really need to check out is the step by step installation instructions. That's where you will find out what you have to remove from the front of the vehcle to install.
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Old 12-03-2009, 01:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ernieh View Post
The parts diagram is nice, but what you really need to check out is the step by step installation instructions. That's where you will find out what you have to remove from the front of the vehcle to install.
Looks like the black plastic splashguard has to be removed.

1. This bracket is one of our XL series, which allows you to remove the most visible portion of the bracket. This bracket kit consists of two receiver braces, two arms and the hardware pack. The bracket kit mounts to the bottom of the frame horns behind and below the front bumper.

Note: later vehicles may have a small black plastic splashguard under the front of the frame that has to be removed (four 15mm head bolts).


2. To mount the main braces, locate the rear-most existing hole in the bottom of the frame rails on each side. Fishwire a ” x 1” carriage bolt and ” x 1” x 2” backing plate into the hole in each frame rail.

3. Hold the braces to the bottom of the frame rail with the bolts through the rear hole in the braces. Secure with flat washers, lock washers and nuts.

4. Locate the holes on the sides of the frame that line up with the side mounting tabs on the main braces and bolt through frame and bracket with ” x 1” carriage bolts and ” x 1” x 2” backing plates.

Note: on some models, the existing hole on the outside of the frame will not line up exactly and will have to be drilled.


5. Make certain that the braces are aligned properly, then tighten in position so the braces snug against the bottom of the frame.

Note: two alignment shims are included with the kit to take care of any alignment discrepancies in the frame. These shims can be used one or two at a time to align one side to the other.




6. Using the braces as templates, drill two ” holes in the bottom of the frame on each side.



Note: on later models with the splashguard removed, a nut in the bottom of each frame rail will be drilled out when drilling the front hole.


7. Insert a ” x 1” x 5” two holed backing plate into the frame horn on each side and bolt through with two ” x 1” carriage bolts.



Note: on later models the fascia is very close to the front of the frame opening, either blocking the fascia away from the frame temporarily or cutting the small web out of the opening will facilitate fishwiring and inserting the plate. Torque all bolts to the specifications below.

8. Insert the front braces in the receiver tubes and secure with 5/8” draw pins and 3/16” spring pins.

9. Mount the tow bar according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

10. Connect the 12” safety cables to the receiver braces with the included cable connectors. Connect the other end to
the tow vehicle’s safety cables and the tow bar.


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Old 12-03-2009, 04:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bccsrc View Post
As far as the wiring, what all is included on the taillight wiring kit? Does it include everything I need? Depending on the space, I may got this route.
They have 2 kits - one has 4 diodes, 30' of 4-strand wire, and connectors for wiring up to your existing bulbs on the toad. If your toad has separate brake lights and turn signals, you will need 2 more diodes and possibly a converter depending on whether or not your motorhome has separate or combined tail lights and brake lights. If you're going with diodes, you can probably save money by just buying the Raodmaster diodes and getting the wire and connectors from your local auto parts store.

The other kit has 2 sockets, wire, and connectors to add bulbs to your toad's tail light assemblies.

The Roadmaster web site also has wiring diagrams for various combinations of separate/combined turn signals and brake lights and installation instructions for various wiring kits and the converter. Click HERE and scroll down near the bottom of the page.
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:49 PM   #12
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Radio Shack has diodes. They are quite inexpensive and very easy to wire intio the system. Use shrink tubing to insulate them and it makes for a nice clean simple job.
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Old 04-09-2010, 04:36 PM   #13
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Finished the install of the base plates and the external lighting about 2 weeks ago. The external lights that you drill a hole in the tail lights and run the wiring to the RV worked well. The clip that holds the light in the 1" hole could be improved. I made some brackets to hold the lights in.

The lights are nice and bright and worked the first time I tested them. :-) It took me about 3-4 hours each for the lights and base plates. Not bad considering the money I saved.

Do you know if I can pull a fuse to keep from running the battery down since the key needs to be on accessory?
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Old 04-09-2010, 05:01 PM   #14
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If you wired separate lights why would you turn it to acc?

I used a little silicone to hold my bulb sockets in
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