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Old 11-27-2009, 09:28 AM   #15
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I've used the Brakemaster for three years and 30k miles now and am very, very satisfied with it.
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Old 12-04-2009, 08:16 AM   #16
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Thanks all. I believe I've digested enough to decide on the SMI Air Force One. This looks like a great system with nothing in the toads cabin and I can move it to another vehicle. I've read many posts that love it and have installed it themselves (a plus). So thanks again for all the input.
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Old 12-05-2009, 03:44 AM   #17
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You will be very satisfied with the SMI Air Force One from what I have heard as well. At the time I bought my system it was not available and if mine ever dies I would go with Air Force One also.
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Old 12-11-2009, 02:18 PM   #18
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I have a Brakemaster system that came with our motorhome when we bought it, including all the components that I installed on the toad.
I notice that on light braking the indicator light on my MH dash does not come on, indicating that the pedal in my toad is not being depressed. On moderate braking (while driving) and on hard braking (which I have only done for testing with the car sitting still) it works fine. Is there an adjustment that I should have made to make it more sensitive, or is this normal?
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Old 12-11-2009, 06:59 PM   #19
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Rolly ... congrats on inheriting a great brake system! Yours is working as designed. Nothing to adjust ... the system activates your toad brakes only when truly needed when you press firmly on the coach brake pedal.
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Old 12-13-2009, 11:28 AM   #20
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Depending on just how much pedal effort you have to apply to get toad brakes, it may be that your air cylinder in the toad is not adjusted properly. If you want the brakes to come on earlier (less coach braking effort), adjust the length of the arm on the air cylinder a bit longer. Adjust until you are comfortable with the amount of braking you get. Mine come on fairly promptly.

This is covered in the Installation instructions, available at http://www.rvupgrades.info/pdf/91009160Inst.pdf if you don't have them.

If your toad brake pedal doesn't move more-or-less in concert with the coach brake, it is also not applying the full potential amount of braking, i.e. it is not pushing the pedal as far down until you apply major effort on the coahc pedal.
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Old 12-13-2009, 01:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollly View Post
Is there an adjustment that I should have made to make it more sensitive, or is this normal?
Hate to disagree with a Moderator , but there is no sensitivity adjustment on the BrakeMaster. The length adjustment on the cylinder arm is just for differing distances from brake pedal to either the floor mounted anchoring plate or seat adapter bracket.

If you think your brakes are not activating soon enough it might be due to a slight air leak. First place I would check (just because it's the easiest) is the toad installation. If there's an air leak allowing the breakaway air reservoir to lose air pressure, then each time you apply the coach service brake it would have to fill the reservoir before sending air to the cylinder in the toad. To test make sure the reservoir is full and the toad is disconnected from the coach. First check all the fittings with soapy water. As a final test pull the breakaway pin. This will activate the cylinder in the toad pressing the brake pedal down. Let it sit for at least 15 minutes. If there are no air leaks it shouldn't release until you re-install the breakaway pin.
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Old 12-13-2009, 07:06 PM   #22
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Quote:
Hate to disagree with a Moderator , but there is no sensitivity adjustment on the BrakeMaster. The length adjustment on the cylinder arm is just for differing distances from brake pedal to either the floor mounted anchoring plate or seat adapter bracket.
No penalty for that, Bob!

But I did not say (or mean to say) that that the arm was a sensitivity adjustment. However, if not adjusted to the proper length, the air piston may not apply full pressure to the pedal, i.e. it can come up short. Granted it would have to be way off in length for that to happen, but the original message said he got no braking at all until until moderate pressure was applied to the coach pedal. That suggests to me that the piston arm length could be off by quite a bit.

With proper arm adjustment, the toad brake pedal should begin to move as soon as the coach brakes are applied, i.e. as soon as air pressure comes into the line to the toad. That's what proportional braking is all about.
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Old 12-13-2009, 07:52 PM   #23
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No penalty for that, Bob!
Thanks, Gary. I obviously misinterpreted your first post. My apologies, but I think it's all clear now.
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Old 12-13-2009, 08:23 PM   #24
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If I recall correctly, the installation instructions say that the piston length is correct when after connecting it to the brake pedal, you have to extend it "slightly" in order to connect to the underseat bracket.
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:12 AM   #25
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I thank you guys for all of your assistance on this. After seeing your suggestions I believe I do have it installed correctly. I don't have the cylinder plunger adjusted tight against the pedal. I left a little play in it because I obviously don't want to create a situation where the toad brakes are dragging.

Thanks again and best regards to you all,
Roland
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