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Old 01-17-2016, 01:36 AM   #71
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Invisibrake is a flawed system and should be recalled!
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:10 AM   #72
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Would a simple pull-down resistor on the brake light input line address the stray current issue? This assumes that the brake light signal can supply much more current than the leak through a salt/dirt trace.

Probably irrelevant, because I stopped by the Roadmaster booth at the show today and asked if this problem had been addressed. "What problem???"
Probably. I suggested they do that but it fell on deaf ears.
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Old 01-17-2016, 06:23 AM   #73
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"What problem" unfortunately is an industry wide QC issue. Just read all the vendor crap that is failing on the owners forum. A year ago I was feeling the waters and had fortunately priced trade value vs. new coach and the three dealers I dealt with were so far apart thank goodness I did not take a deal. I'm sticking with my coach. The kinks are worked out. I ordered a new six prong/ four prong male plug for the tow to rewire on this invisibrake system that locked up the brakes while not attached. RM answer to the "problem" silicone in the plug! Any tips on the rewire? Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:34 AM   #74
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Plug up higher, turn the brake strength way down. Separate bulbs if possible to help eliminate one source of stray voltage.
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:34 AM   #75
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When I persisted, the RM rep said "just use silicone". I was not sure if he meant sealant on the back of the connector or grease on the pins. I don't think he was sure either.

Silicone does not bond well to synthetics. This could eventually enhance the problem by encouraging salt water to move between the wire and silicone by capillary action. I would consider liquid electrical tape, with the understanding that I never planned to get back in there in the future.

I might add a relay that was actuated by the 12V charging pin (usually the center of 6). The contacts of the relay would then interrupt the brake signal at the brake box. No coach, no surprise braking. Having the relay interrupt power to the box itself might affect the break-away functionality. Still have the problem of unexpected braking while being towed.

A lot of work to fix something that should be working perfectly out of the box.
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:44 AM   #76
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Would a simple pull-down resistor on the brake light input line address the stray current issue?

On second thought, the brake bulbs should be acting as pull-down resistors. In most systems, the Stop/Turn signal from the coach is wired directly to the diode on the brake/turn light. Is the Invisibrake installation wired this way, or does it relay the signal through the box?
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:59 AM   #77
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It may be stray voltage from the running lights or charge line that is causing the lock up versus the brake light voltage from the car when the pedal is depressed.

Or it could be the internal resistance of the diodes allowing voltage to be seen by some very sensitive input circuits.

Separate bulbs would eliminate the diodes as a source of problem.

I might just get the water hose out and do some testing. The brake works well when it is not acting up.
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:06 AM   #78
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Good points. In theory, all the pins on the car side are inputs and should have no voltage. In practice, any back flow through a diode in the lamp or charging circuit will have no pull-down to drain away the 12v charge.

Perhaps a more scientific approach than the garden hose would be to use a volt meter to measure each pin relative to ground (tow cable not connected). If you find a voltage, does shorting that pin to either of the stop/turn pins trigger the brake?
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:28 AM   #79
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Of course I meant testing with a voltmeter. I am a certified electronic tech.

Testing first without water of course would give the baseline. I have actually taken measurements when it was acting up and indeed found stray voltages present on wires where there should be none. Cleaning and drying the plug on the toad seemed to clear the issue. However, that is not a good solution. The thing should not be as sensitive. There is a chance the tow socket on the toad is getting wet also. That could provide a source of feedback.
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Old 01-20-2016, 07:28 AM   #80
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Myron great point on the toad socket. FYI the new plug ordered in for the toad from e trailer is heat shrinked and sealed in the rear where the wires are exiting. This is not, I assume, the same as RM OEM plug? The manufacturer of this plug has sent a wiring diagram for each contact relative to its use so hopefully I'll be able to match. Can I count on a universal color code for rewire?
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Old 01-20-2016, 05:51 PM   #81
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Sorry Clay, electrons are color blind so do not depend on wire colors.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:25 AM   #82
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Yeah, knew you were gonna say that. Guess best to temp connect each suspected match and check system for correct function then button it up and heat shrink butt connectors?
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:43 AM   #83
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Yeah, knew you were gonna say that. Guess best to temp connect each suspected match and check system for correct function then button it up and heat shrink butt connectors?
Always take a before photo that you can refer back to. If the new connector is identical and you have enough play in the harness, move one wire at a time from old to new connector.
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Old 01-21-2016, 03:31 PM   #84
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I did some extensive troubleshooting today and found some voltage back feeding into the yellow wire input to the brake. It began at about .6vdc then slowly rose to about 1.5 volts. I had the engine running, toad brakes applied, headlights on.

I added water to the front tow socket and then the rear toad socket as well. No changes were noticed.

What is apparent is the diode pack that feeds that line is leaky. Doing more testing caused the diode to heal itself. The stray voltage went away.

At no time during the test did it activate the brake.

I disconnected the control lines and will use the brake as a break-away device only at this time.
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