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Old 01-21-2016, 06:01 PM   #85
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So Myron your saying changing out the male plug on the toad is useless and the diodes need changed to a better quality or different type. Please forgive my ignorance. I'm not up to par with you guys just seeing if it's worth my time and expense to try and change the plugs and diodes out or is it a lost cause?
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:21 AM   #86
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Of course I meant testing with a voltmeter. I am a certified electronic tech.

Testing first without water of course would give the baseline. I have actually taken measurements when it was acting up and indeed found stray voltages present on wires where there should be none. Cleaning and drying the plug on the toad seemed to clear the issue. However, that is not a good solution. The thing should not be as sensitive. There is a chance the tow socket on the toad is getting wet also. That could provide a source of feedback.

Since the OP mentioned snow, it is probably fair to assume that it was salt water being sprayed on the exposed brake light diodes.
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:35 AM   #87
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I would not change the diodes. Any diode has a certain amount of leakage. The plugs do need attention to at least remove one contributing factor.

When the weather lets up I am going to do a couple more tests to find out how the brake functions. My gut feeling is they use an "and gate" with an input that is just to sensitive. Until I can prove to myself what the problem is the brake will remain unplugged from the lights. The fuse will stay out until I tow it again. The only thing that will function then is the breakaway plug.
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Old 01-23-2016, 07:07 AM   #88
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I'm going to replace the toad plug. Clean and seal the female see what happens. I'll stay subscribed and follow your input. Many thanks.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:05 AM   #89
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I was going to remove the toad brake light and turn signal fuses but they are just too hard to get to. Removing the negative terminal would do the trick but there are other issues then.

What I surmise is any leakage voltage is seen as a brake input and engages the invisibrake. This could happen with headlights on and water entry in the socket.

When towing it could be a combination of the toad brakes being activated by the rv and then the stray voltage across a leaky diode. The toad has its own voltage showing up because of the brake pedal being pulled down.

Clear as mud? Two sources of voltage available, one from the RV and the voltage from the toad with the brakes being applied.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:51 PM   #90
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Yep, clear as mud! So basically the system can trigger and activated by two sources and no matter what one does it will activate the brakes as happened in my case. You can seal, replace diodes but it's going to fail! Eventually?
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:44 AM   #91
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Yep, clear as mud! So basically the system can trigger and activated by two sources and no matter what one does it will activate the brakes as happened in my case. You can seal, replace diodes but it's going to fail! Eventually?
I cannot say it will definitely fail. It is also possible they have modified the input sensitivity at some time and are not passing that fix on.

One thing I would suggest is turning the strength of the brake down a bit. I would have liked it a lot more if flooring my 300hp Edge could have overpowered the braking. Getting to the side of the road was very dangerous.

Of course I do not leave mine powered now.
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:44 AM   #92
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So reading all this, I think I will remove the current system that uses diodes and install separate brake lights bulbs within the rear lights. If it happens then, it'll be a whole new world of problems.
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:57 AM   #93
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So reading all this, I think I will remove the current system that uses diodes and install separate brake lights bulbs within the rear lights. If it happens then, it'll be a whole new world of problems.

If you do, use LED bulbs. I have seen a number of add-on incandescent bulbs that were melting the fixture plastic because they were too close to it.
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:59 AM   #94
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If you do, use LED bulbs. I have seen a number of add-on incandescent bulbs that were melting the fixture plastic because they were too close to it.
Excellent point! Thanks
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:05 AM   #95
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So reading all this, I think I will remove the current system that uses diodes and install separate brake lights bulbs within the rear lights. If it happens then, it'll be a whole new world of problems.
Good idea. That will remove a couple of possible sources.
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Old 01-25-2016, 06:15 AM   #96
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Fortunately, Myron I did not have the brake turned up. Just enough to activate braking and managed to get into a fuel station watching the brakes go up in smoke!! When installed, paid pro to install, he failed to adjust the spacing at the pedal correctly so it stayed slightly on. Would not have noticed except late evening arrival at CG and the cockpit LED was blinking on and off. I spaced correctly and as mentioned used the system on two coaches for over three years w/o issues. The brake is turned down now and I still use the system for turn signals, brake lights and charging. Since I've ordered this new toad plug might as well clean and seal the bus female plug rewire the toad and see what happens. If no success I'm not dropping another red cent in the hole, write it up as a lost cause and while at Perry GA for FMCA take my frustrations out on some poor unspecting rep. if it fails once again, Invisibrake is going to meet its demise in the great green machine compactor!
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Old 01-25-2016, 08:06 AM   #97
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Roadmaster Invisibrake problems

Do you use dielectric grease in the umbilical cord connections? Maybe a little messy when storing the cord, but it helps keep water out. Any water intrusion will stay on the surface of the grease and not make contact with the metal. When the connector parts are pushed together, the two metal surfaces push the grease aside and make contact.
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Old 01-25-2016, 10:16 AM   #98
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I have used grease. However, that would not prevent the "electrical leakage" across a reverse biased diode. It will remove possible contributing factor and is a good idea.

Clay, you can unplug the molex plug with the four or five wires on the front of the box and it will still act as a breakaway and would not self engage.
As for the charging, I would just run a separate line. The "charge" from the Invisibrake is minimal if it even works.
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