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Old 08-24-2010, 12:15 PM   #15
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I use the Blue Ox Aventa II like others. I have base plates on a 2001 Ford F350, a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, and a 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I've towed the ford 2000 miles and it wieghs in at 8000lbs. The 2001 Cherokee 15K, and the new grand has yet to be towed since it delivered last week. I've had 0 problems with any of the equipment, quick and easy hook-up, good looks, and strong. I use the M&G brake with the Jeeps. As stated earlier both companies make good equipment, just a matter of preference and price. None of them are cheap, I just prefer the appearance and operation of the blue Ox.
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Old 08-24-2010, 02:01 PM   #16
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You can mix and match. For my 09 Pontiac Vibe, I liked the look of the Blue Ox base plate best, but for a tow bar, I preferred the clean look of the Roadmaster Sterling with the built in channels for safety chains and electrical connections. I just ordered my Roadmaster tow bar with Blue Ox compatible connectors. Works great, looks great.

My US Gear tow brake works well also but was a bear to install.

Happy Trails
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Old 08-24-2010, 02:27 PM   #17
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I agree with Dragonrover. I've had Blue Ox products for many years and any problems that I've had, which aren't many, have been resolved quickly and professionally. They go above and beyond to help the customer. What I really like about Blue Ox company is the service techs at the rallies. These guys do a great job coming around to service your towbar and replacing, cleaning, and lubricating everything in it so it's next to new. That to me is worth choosing Blue Ox!
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Old 08-24-2010, 02:35 PM   #18
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I agree with Dragonrover. I've had Blue Ox products for many years and any problems that I've had, which aren't many, have been resolved quickly and professionally. They go above and beyond to help the customer. What I really like about Blue Ox company is the service techs at the rallies. These guys do a great job coming around to service your towbar and replacing, cleaning, and lubricating everything in it so it's next to new. That to me is worth choosing Blue Ox!
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Old 08-24-2010, 03:08 PM   #19
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I have always had a Roadmaster tow bar and brackets and have never had any problems. I had the MX style put on my 2010 Equinox earlier this year. You can remove the part that sticks out beyond the lower grille and it looks good. With the MX style and the new Equinox, you don't need to use the crossbar that is required on most Roadmaster brackets. I have towed it about 2,500 miles with no problems.
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:51 PM   #20
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Though I have the blue ox, I will give you my opinion

There really is not a lot to recommend one over the other between Blue-Ox and Roadmaster, both have very good after-market customer service, both are quality products.. Now in the past the Blue-Ox tow system "Stowed" on the rear of the motor home and the Roadmaster Stowed on the front of the towed car,, Thus I have Blue Ox cause I like it better that way.. However Roadmaster has addressed that I believe.

Now.. If I were doing it today.. I would give very strong consideration to Jacmat's recommendation of the ready-brute with built in ready-brake surge brake system.

NOTE: no matter what tow bar there are a few different brake systems.. YOU NEED ONE

The Ready Brake is about as close to foolproof as you can get however I've never actually seen one up close (only photos and drawings) so I can't tell you much about it beyond what I just said

Blue-Ox Patriot, Brake Buddy, Even Brake, Apollo and other "System in a box" claim no installation needed.. BUT You have to install them EVERY TIME YOU TOW. Now you do the install (no technician needed) but.. This is a farily lot of work and if you are going only a short distance, Say to the dealer for service, "Oh, it's too much trouble" may be the words on your lips.. Followed by "I wish I had"

M&H Air over hydraulic systems do not fit on every car, but they are a very good choice, this is a "Module" that goes between the vacuum booster and the brake master cylinder.. Since it FOLLOWS the booster it is not affected by vacuum in the canister. Hook up amounts to plugging in a hose, Very fast.

Air-Force One.. This is a pedal pusher air powered, though you do have to connect it to the brake pedal it's much easier than the brake in a box

NOTE: Both of these you need to press the brake pedal several times with the engine off to bleed off the vacuum or the first few stops are going to lock up the towed brakes every time.

US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator.. Hardest one to type.. But

It is fully controlled from the motor home driver's seat.. Same degree of control a professional driver has over his trailer or more. It is porportional (you set the gain so you don't have the towed stopping the motor home) it is progressive (The harder you stop, the harder it stops) and though it is a "Pedal Pusher" type (IT actually PULLS the pedal, the power unit is out of sight and out of mind all the time less you go looking for it) it includes a vacuum pump to make the booster work normally.

It is very simply the best out there in my opinion.

Though I'd give the ready brake a good hard look too.

Again hook up is plug in a cable.

OH, all the electric units (All the box systems, and US-Gear) do use towed battery power.. The US-Gear system includes a lead to re-charge the towed battery.

How good is it?

Last trip south the cross bar that holds the hitch receiver came off the motor home. The towed was no longer connected to the MH. When I got stopped.. The car, was right where it would have been had nothing broke.. Exactly stopped in the right place.

I can give no higher recommendation than that.
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Old 08-24-2010, 08:07 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post

M&H Air over hydraulic systems do not fit on every car, but they are a very good choice, this is a "Module" that goes between the vacuum booster and the brake master cylinder.. Since it FOLLOWS the booster it is not affected by vacuum in the canister. Hook up amounts to plugging in a hose, Very fast.

Air-Force One.. This is a pedal pusher air powered, though you do have to connect it to the brake pedal it's much easier than the brake in a box

NOTE: Both of these you need to press the brake pedal several times with the engine off to bleed off the vacuum or the first few stops are going to lock up the towed brakes every time.


I have the M&G (not M&H) brake on two toads. It is an air operated cylinder between the brake booster and master cylinder (you are correct here). The hook-up is simply an air line with quick disconnects at the coach and the toad (you are correct here also, quick and easy).

Where you are wrong and/or misinformed is on the part about pumping the brake pedal. The unit is between the booster and master cylinder, therefore the toads brake booster has absolutely no effect on the system while in tow. Not the first time you hit the brakes or the 100th time, no effect. Therefore you have no need to pump the pedal and it will have no effect on the braking.

What you may be thinking or have been told about is the optional BREAK AWAY kit. This kit consists of an electrical switch controlling an air valve. the switch has a small cable connected between the coach and toad, just like a break-away switch on any trailer. It draws it's power through a small fuse and line connected directly to the toad battery (very minimal draw, the same as a trailer break-away with stand alone battery).

If the toad becomes detached the cable pulls the switch which activates the break-away and sends air to the cylinder operating the toad brakes to stop it. Since there is no air supply coming from the service brake on the coach during a break-away the unit draws it's air from a small air reserve tank included with the break-away kit. It is about the size of a small aerosol de-oderant can. This all brings me to the point. After hooking up the toad you pump the pedal of the COACH once or twice to charge this reserve tank with air. You don't have to mess with the toads brakes at all.

I hope this clears up any mis-understanding of the operation of the M&G system. There is no need to pump the pedal on either unit if you rely solely on your safety cables and do not opt for the optional break-away kit.
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:08 PM   #22
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my 2 cents on this one...
Equinox is a new design for '010. Be sure the vendor you pick is completely up to speed. The 010 model needs a different baseplate than earlier suv's.
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:18 AM   #23
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When I read this message I was wondering what MSCP stands for, as I not good at basic electricity.

So its an acronym that has several definitions:

AcronymDefinition MSCPMulti-Species Conservation Program MSCPMass Storage & Control Protocol MSCPMulti-Storey Car Park MSCPManaged Services Channel Program (Cisco) MSCPMaster of Science in Counseling Psychology MSCPMicrosoft Certified Professional MSCPMean Spherical Candle Power MSCPMelbourne School of Continental Philosophy (Melbourne, VIC, Australia) MSCPModular Spare Capacity Placement MSCPMember of the Society of Chartered Physiotherapists MSCPMultiple Scan Chain Partitioning MSCPMaster of Science in Clinical Psychopharmacology MSCPMulti-Stage Cascaded Predictor (computing) MSCPMember of the Society for Coaching Psychology
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:05 AM   #24
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In my opinion, the Blue Ox equipment presents well when not in use and it's never a challenge to figure out whether or not you prefer 2 twist lock tab devices or a huge framework of metal on the front of your vehicle. When I get to my destination, the 2 tabs, emergency cable, & umbilical cord all fit is a small black bag and are stored in a small compartment in the back of my car.

In use Blue Ox towbars and baseplates work very well from the 5,000 pound Aladdin to the much more robust Aventa LX - 10K towbar.

Whenever you go to a large rally event you can always find a Blue Ox Destination America Team to resolve any issue or simply perform an inspection and get a little tune up work done.



Look for Jerry and Shirley to be at a Rally Event across the Country that you might attend. They are very friendly and they don't bite. You can even tell them I said so.

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Old 08-29-2010, 10:12 AM   #25
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FWIW, when we were looking into a tow setup for our Wrangler, we looked at both manufacturers.
We deceided on a Road Master All Terrain tow setup and a US Gear Unibrake.
We have had it for about two years and are quite happy with the setup.
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:15 PM   #26
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we did plenty of looking around & are going with the Blue Ox system to pull our Jeep. We're saving over $600 by buying the Aventa LX & Patriot brake system on the net instead of locally. I am buying the base plate & all electrical hookups locally & having them installed.
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Old 10-10-2010, 08:49 AM   #27
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I agree that both Blue Ox and Roadmaster make great products. We have used Roadmaster Sterling tow bar for just over 30K miles and have no complaints. We also use the Roadmaster Guardian rock/debris guard and have been pleased with the protection it gives our toad.
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