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Old 08-27-2015, 11:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruddog View Post
Does having a clear bra on your Toad provide enough protection for a toad?
If by "clear bra" you mean 3m or Diamond Shield vinyl film my answer would be "absolutely not". It gets dinged up, yellows, cracks, etc I had sone on my coach and will NEVER do it again.
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Old 08-29-2015, 10:39 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
If by "clear bra" you mean 3m or Diamond Shield vinyl film my answer would be "absolutely not". It gets dinged up, yellows, cracks, etc I had sone on my coach and will NEVER do it again.
AMEN!!!
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:45 PM   #17
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Protect a tow and Reflectix

We just ran from the southeast US (Georgia) to Anchorage , then back south to central Florida towing our Focus on a dolly behind out moho.

We used the Protect a Tow system. In addition we also rigged up Reflectix and totally covered, velcroed and strapped down it to the windshield.

We were thoroughly covered with and crusted with dust and grit in Alaska and the Yukon . Not much can be done about that. Our moho windshield took 3 hits from rocks and it was destroyed.

A few mall pebbles were found resting on the wiper blades and on the rear air foil of the Focus. But the good news was no scratches or gouges in the paint!

All in all we were more than satisfied with the success of the set up! As it turns out the moho came out worse than the toad!
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:54 PM   #18
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how long does it take to install the bra? Does it cover the windshield? Is a rock guard required with the bra?
Sorry about a late post, as I was coming down from AK. It takes less than 3 minutes to install the bra and cover with both DW and I working it. If I do it myself, no more than 5 minutes. Yes, the bra/windshield cover is one piece. I think the rock guard is an additional tool to keep the rocks from kicking up. A big enough rock will still cause damage under the bra, but I haven't seen it. I did take one in the front of the RV that actually took a chip out of the fiberglass under the bra, but I saw that one coming and think it was about as large as a large marble.
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Old 08-30-2015, 09:00 PM   #19
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IIRC, others have posted on here that the rick guards actually bounces the rocks back into the back of the motorhome, damaging it

And MY experience with bras over the years was that there were two problems with them:
1) The WILL put micro scratches on your finish - it really doesn't matter how good you think it's secured - 60 miles an hour and buffeting up, down, left, and right IS going to move it..
2) If you leave it on long enough you will see a difference in the paint fading of the uncovered versus covered.

We chose to use the protect-a-tow and it seems to work well...
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:08 PM   #20
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JohnBoyToo, do you have any other protection for the toad. Clear bra, mud flaps behind the rear wheels or a full length mud flap at the rear of your MH?
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:12 AM   #21
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We have over 30,000 miles added to our coach and have no rock chips in our CRV. We first have good wide and long enough mud flaps in the fender well, and the rear mud flap hanging 5" off the ground as we go down the road.
We thought about getting a rock guard to place on the front of the CRV, but have heard too much about the rocks bouncing off and hitting the back of the coach.
If we do go to Alaska, we will lift the rear guard higher when we go over the loose gravel roads.
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:20 AM   #22
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We use the solid rubber UltraGuard flap with 4" clearance at the bottom, along with the Protect-A-Tow mesh shield between the MH and toad. We have never had any damage to the toad! I feel this combination gives you the very best protection possible!
Do you pictures? This sounds like a good setup.
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:20 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
We use the solid rubber UltraGuard flap with 4" clearance at the bottom, along with the Protect-A-Tow mesh shield between the MH and toad. We have never had any damage to the toad! I feel this combination gives you the very best protection possible!
Do you have pictures? This sounds like a good setup.
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:05 PM   #24
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Do you have pictures? This sounds like a good setup.

Here ya go!



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Old 08-31-2015, 12:27 PM   #25
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Hey Joe, no center loop for your screen ?
mine has it... but would be easy to add as it's just a little bungee cord that loops over the bar...

(Ah,on edit, not a protect-a-tow! Are you skilled enough to do a home-made one ?!?)


Ruddog, yes, the pic below shows the rear flap on my shy motorhome trying to hide in too small a storage area
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:05 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo View Post
Hey Joe, no center loop for your screen ?
mine has it... but would be easy to add as it's just a little bungee cord that loops over the bar...

(Ah,on edit, not a protect-a-tow! Are you skilled enough to do a home-made one ?!?)


Ruddog, yes, the pic below shows the rear flap on my shy motorhome trying to hide in too small a storage area
You know, I didn't know the "real" ones had that center loop! So far I have not had any problem with mine sagging enough to drag, but I can see how that would be a good feature!

I had a local upholstery guy make this, but if I had it to do over again I would just buy the factory shield. It took so long that I didn't really save any money!
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:54 PM   #27
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Better some cover then no cover JohnBoyToo.

Thanks all for the advice and pics!
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Old 09-24-2015, 10:39 AM   #28
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I was looking if a Protect-a-Tow would work with a EZE-Tow.
  • It would have to be connected only to the EZE-Tow and not the Toad so you can remove the Toad without having to remove the Protect-a-Tow.
  • You don't want it to interfere with accessing the straps and safety chains connecting the Toad to the EZE-Tow.
  • You don't want it to drag during turns since it typically will be lower than when used on a 4 down Toad.
  • On the Toad end it should be the full width of the EZE-Tow between the wheels which is 80". This protects any width Toad you might want to tow.
What I haven't figured out is if the Protect-a-Tow should be above or below the tow bar. There are advantages to both.
  • Above makes it easier to connect to the back of the MH especially when trying to clear a drop hitch but you can't store the ramps on top.
  • Below makes it easier to connect the Toad since it's stays out of the way of the reels for the wheel baskets but the drop hitch can get in the way.
Guess I would know which way to go unless and until we get one.
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