A dolly for a RWD car doesn't help, except for mot needing the towing attachment. The wheels that make the gearbox spin are still on the street!
We're still trying to work out a manageable and sensible way to have a second vehicle along with us, without going broke. We have an '03 Kia Sedona as our only car. It would cost almost $3500 to convert it for 4-down. Unfortunately, its 4800 pound kerb weight and its forward weight bias would need a very substantial dolly, and would put us over the 5000 lb. hitch limit.
Best I can think of right now is to buy walkie-talkies and have DW drive the Kia while I drive the MH. Renting when we need to is another option.
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ex-pat Brits (1968) and ex-RVers.
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A dolly for a RWD car doesn't help, except for mot needing the towing attachment. The wheels that make the gearbox spin are still on the street!
We're still trying to work out a manageable and sensible way to have a second vehicle along with us, without going broke. We have an '03 Kia Sedona as our only car. It would cost almost $3500 to convert it for 4-down. Unfortunately, its 4800 pound kerb weight and its forward weight bias would need a very substantial dolly, and would put us over the 5000 lb. hitch limit.
Best I can think of right now is to buy walkie-talkies and have DW drive the Kia while I drive the MH. Renting when we need to is another option.
you should be able to buy a nice tow dolly for under 2,000
Listed curb weight for a sedona is around 4300 lbs and it will fit on my my demco tow dolly which weighs 600 lbs so you can still put 100 lbs of gear or gas in the sedona as you go down the road.
Curb weight is full tank of gas, full fluids, and everything ready to run except passengers and cargo. So you should be able to put up to 100 pounds of stuff that won't fit in the basement. BTW are you sure about the 5000 lb hitch limit, I thought standard hitch limits were 6,000 lbs and 10,000 lbs but I could be wrong on that.
Still to be cautious I will disconnect the driveshaft from the diff. Like I said earlier it will probably take longer to hook the MG up than it will to jack it up, crawl under and remove 4 bolts and bungee it to keep it from flopping around. Beside if its at all level ground you can push that thing around for a mile or so without even braking a sweat.
On the CB cars the drive shaft can be reached thru the driver side battery box (no Jacking) you could cut an access hole in the rear shelf and use an early battery cover. Tack weld the 4 nuts to the flange to make drive shaft disconect even quicker.
What is the height from the ground to the pins in your mount?
"Safety Fast"
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04 Horizon QD, 12 Ford Flex, Excalibar, Brakemaster, Winter Texan, RVin! since 1974
Norm, Donna & Tinker Kat(RIP) 01 Z3
Life is a Timed Event, you only get One Go Around!
A dolly for a RWD car doesn't help, except for mot needing the towing attachment. The wheels that make the gearbox spin are still on the street!
Actually, a simple solution would be to put the rear wheels on the dolly. Why not? Lock the steering column and go. I still think the original poster is going to an enormous amount of hassle to tow the MG.
BTW, bought another MG today: '73 B, Mintor knock off alloy wheels, new Pirelli's coil-over suspension front & rear, RV8 crossmember, bigger front disks with 4 pot calipers, new Oselli Stage II 1950 motor, Weber 40 carb, oil cooler, etc., new trans (overdrive), new rear end, new fuel tank, roll bar, perfect body, amateur level paint, perfect dash / instruments. Needs seats reupholstered & new top.
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoggberg
I have assembled the base plates and done a temporary fit using the bumper bolts to hold the thing up. When I complete the mounting these baseplates will be welded to the frame, but this rig up is so i can drag the car over to the machine shop to weld them. Its only about 5 miles, so I am not worried, and I wont be going fast. Don't want to drive the MG over as it will take quite a while for the welds to cool, and I don't want to have to figure out where to put the bumper while I drive it home.
The first view is head-on, I put the towing pins in the mount points so it will be easier to see them. As you can see they are hardly visible. After they are welded to the frame, some black paint and I doubt of anyone would really notice. I also see where I need to patch and touch up the air dam from parking curb run ins.
The second is a side view I put my white oil container behind in the hopes it would give a better view not so sure it helps. The black at the top of the screen is the underside of the bumper. You can see where the upper L Bracket comes down below the bumper and the lower bracket is offset forward about 1/4 inch to give some clearance to the air dam and provide a better weld seam
This is looking like it might work out real well.
I would add a triangle shaped gusset to the inside of that angle iron bracket. I know you aren't working with a lot of weight, but using a piece of angle iron that way makes my brain hurt.
What is the height from the ground to the pins in your mount? "Safety Fast"
My roadster is still running factory height. Because it competed in National rallies which usually ran at least two legs over gravel roads, I wanted to keep the road clearance rather than use the moss springs to lower it 1 inch. I took a quick measurement and it is about 12.5 inches from the garage floor to the approx center of the pins. If you need a more accurate measurement I can get it for you after I have the plates welded to the frame since this is a temp set up.
Things are moving a bit slower now, for some reason the wire to the fuel pump broke in the harness (its 34 years old). so I have to fix that before I proceed any further. Rather than tear the wire harness apart I'll just run a new one and hide a cut off switch someplace, my form of theft protection.
I would add a triangle shaped gusset to the inside of that angle iron bracket. I know you aren't working with a lot of weight, but using a piece of angle iron that way makes my brain hurt.
please explain why I am making your brain hurt. This is structural steel, and I can only tell you how to drive electron chew chews. I presume you know how to drive mechanical chew chews
I can probably have it done when i have it welded to the frame. There are two angles to make the base plate welded 3 inch leg to 3 inch leg turned 180 degrees from each other (one 5 inch leg running up the other running down (the lower one is cut off just below the mount points) should both angles be gusseted?
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoggberg
please explain why I am making your brain hurt. This is structural steel, and I can only tell you how to drive electron chew chews. I presume you know how to drive mechanical chew chews
I can probably have it done when i have it welded to the frame. There are two angles to make the base plate welded 3 inch leg to 3 inch leg turned 180 degrees from each other (one 5 inch leg running up the other running down (the lower one is cut off just below the mount points) should both angles be gusseted?
I'm not real good at either chew chew, but usually manage? Forcing a bending moment on the angle iron the way you have it set is likely going to cause it to crack pretty easily. It'll be stressed across that bending moment every time the car encounters a bump or surge? Can't really explain it any better or prove it, the gusset is just the way I would do it. At least talk to your welder about it. Maybe I'm over thinking it. Just point at it and see what he says. Not sure I'm following you on the second one, but if there's another set up similarly I'd do it as well.
Phogg How long have owned the MG? I had a friend who lived in Minneapolis who owned one many years ago and sold it around 86 or so. It was blue no stripe however and was about the same vintage as yours
Phogg How long have owned the MG? I had a friend who lived in Minneapolis who owned one many years ago and sold it around 86 or so. It was blue no stripe however and was about the same vintage as yours
This one was bought by me in Fall of 92. It sat about 10 years at this older couples house without being driven, they took it away from their kid who manages to run the right front fender under a semi. At least as I was told this storu when I bought it. Unfortunately the body shop that repaired it didn't understand British Cars, or was a real Hack job. I have corrected what I could. It was a different blue color, the factory went to a greener blue in 1978, and so I went with the 1974-77 shade of blue. The striping is "my colors" I have used that pattern and the specific widths and spacing since my first roadster in 1965 so that was an add on in 1998 when I had the car repainted.
Not sure I'm following you on the second one, but if there's another set up similarly I'd do it as well.
I do not have any CAD software and so I did a rather bad drawing of the base plate mounts. Again they are uneven leg 5"x3"x5/16" A36 Angle. The 3" legs were welded together with about 1/4" offset. The lower leg was trimmed to approx 2-1/2" The mounts are welded to the 2-1/2" lower plate to the outside which extends below the front bumper. That is the piece you can see in the photo. I hope the drawing below sheds some light on what I was trying to describe.
This is structural steel, and I can only tell you how to drive electron chew chews. I presume you know how to drive mechanical chew chews 
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