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Old 08-11-2013, 12:11 AM   #1
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Silverado as Toad

I recently acquired a 2008 Itasca Cambria with the Ford F-450 Triton engine.

I have a 2008 Silverado that is towable but is right at the 5K max tow weight for the Cambria.

I would dearly love to keep the Silverado as it is the perfect vehicle for us once we reach our boondocking destinations.

Before I go out and buy the Blue Ox base plates for the Silverado, I want get some feedback from others about the feasibility of towing a vehicle that is at the max tow capacity.

I plan on keeping my mph around 60 mph while towing.

Will RV performance be adequate towing a 5K vehicle?

Will I be putting the engine or transmission under undue stress that will limit the life of the engine or transmission?

Is there a recommended transmission temp gauge for the F-450?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:17 AM   #2
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Please check the GCVW (gross combined vehicle weight rating) of your mh. You might find towing your pu may put you over. Add all camping stuff, full fuel and some fresh water to flush while on the road then weigh your mh, add weight of pu and compare to GCVW. Lots of Cs are at the limit empty.
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:07 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by stink View Post
Please check the GCVW (gross combined vehicle weight rating) of your mh. You might find towing your pu may put you over. Add all camping stuff, full fuel and some fresh water to flush while on the road then weigh your mh, add weight of pu and compare to GCVW. Lots of Cs are at the limit empty.
Will do, I have a truck stop scoped out to weigh both vehicles.

Thanks!
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:36 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by baron100 View Post
Will do, I have a truck stop scoped out to weigh both vehicles.

Thanks!
baron100,
Yes Sir, that's what I did. I never believe the weights given in the Dinghy Towing guides or any literature for that matter. I've proved them wrong just about every time. They claimed our 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4 has a base weight of 4877. Well, they're just a bit off. I weighed the truck just prior to installing the base plate(s) and it came in at 5300 lbs. Well, I was prepared for the inaccuracy. We have a limit of round 11,000 lbs. for GVWR, GCWR ETC.

I ordered up the twin base plates from etrailer.com. The wiring I also took care of myself. Your Silverado will be just as easy to wire as mine was. I utilized the stock tail light bulbs for toad lights. Its incredibly easy. No drilling and installing any extra bulbs or sockets. All that's needed is to "T" into the wiring, just prior to it entering the tail light housings. That's it. Then, a diode is installed just down stream of that T intersection so that you keep the motor home signals from traveling down stream into the Silverado's wiring. The diodes I use are Radio Shack and they're about $2.89 for pack of three. They work flawless and have, for about 11 toads I've setup for towing.

But, all this is irrelevant if, you're going to be overweight in terms of your CCWR and, what your coaches weight is and the trucks weight is, and, all the auxiliary equipment you will intend on hauling with you. By the way, your Chassis is an "F-450" not the engine. What, may I ask, is the engine size? And, what transmission do you have in it?
Scott

P.S. You most likely have either a 460 Gas, a V-10 Gas, or any of Fords Diesels.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:30 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
baron100,
Yes Sir, that's what I did. I never believe the weights given in the Dinghy Towing guides or any literature for that matter. I've proved them wrong just about every time. They claimed our 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4 has a base weight of 4877. Well, they're just a bit off. I weighed the truck just prior to installing the base plate(s) and it came in at 5300 lbs. Well, I was prepared for the inaccuracy. We have a limit of round 11,000 lbs. for GVWR, GCWR ETC.

I ordered up the twin base plates from etrailer.com. The wiring I also took care of myself. Your Silverado will be just as easy to wire as mine was. I utilized the stock tail light bulbs for toad lights. Its incredibly easy. No drilling and installing any extra bulbs or sockets. All that's needed is to "T" into the wiring, just prior to it entering the tail light housings. That's it. Then, a diode is installed just down stream of that T intersection so that you keep the motor home signals from traveling down stream into the Silverado's wiring. The diodes I use are Radio Shack and they're about $2.89 for pack of three. They work flawless and have, for about 11 toads I've setup for towing.

But, all this is irrelevant if, you're going to be overweight in terms of your CCWR and, what your coaches weight is and the trucks weight is, and, all the auxiliary equipment you will intend on hauling with you. By the way, your Chassis is an "F-450" not the engine. What, may I ask, is the engine size? And, what transmission do you have in it?
Scott

P.S. You most likely have either a 460 Gas, a V-10 Gas, or any of Fords Diesels.
Fireup,

The Cambria has the Triton V10 gas engine. On our initial outing of
1,300 miles it appears to be very strong and handled hills well but the route we were driving was not like driving to Flagstaff from Phoenix on I-17.

Transmission is the TorqShift 5 speed with tow/haul feature.

The GCWR is stated at about 6,000 lbs more than the GVWR. I intend to keep the Silverado lightly loaded when in tow.

I saw the video at etrailer on the Blue OX baseplate install on a 2008 Silverado and as you indicate it looked really straight forward with some trimming of the front fascia.

I will weigh the two vehicles soon and have more information to work with.

Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:24 AM   #6
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Fireup,

The Cambria has the Triton V10 gas engine. On our initial outing of
1,300 miles it appears to be very strong and handled hills well but the route we were driving was not like driving to Flagstaff from Phoenix on I-17.

Transmission is the TorqShift 5 speed with tow/haul feature.

The GCWR is stated at about 6,000 lbs more than the GVWR. I intend to keep the Silverado lightly loaded when in tow.

I saw the video at etrailer on the Blue OX baseplate install on a 2008 Silverado and as you indicate it looked really straight forward with some trimming of the front fascia.

I will weigh the two vehicles soon and have more information to work with.

Thanks for the feedback.
baron100,
You're certainly welcome Sir. Glad I could be of some assistance.
Scott
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:04 AM   #7
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Sorry to butt in, but what do you ask for when purchasing these diodes? Thanks for your help.
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:42 PM   #8
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Sorry to butt in, but what do you ask for when purchasing these diodes? Thanks for your help.
Hawkeye,
You're not butting in, everyone learns on these forums. How 'ya gonna know if ya don't ask????

Anyway, Radio Shack has quite a few different diodes. I'm no expert in electronics so, I just told them what I was intending on doing. Unlike many folks that work in Radio Shack that are clueless, the gent helping me was real helpful. But, in essence, I got some high amperage/high wattage ones. I'm sure it was way overkill and some a lot smaller would have worked just fine.

There's really not much amperage involved. Sorry I can't be more specific. Let's put it this way, they sell real small ones, and very large ones, I got somewhere in the middle. I've done it to 11 different toads and never, NEVER had any issues what so ever. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:53 AM   #9
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Do you solder the wiring or crimp? Does everyone leave the diodes in when trading vehicles? Thanks again
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:30 AM   #10
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Do you solder the wiring or crimp? Does everyone leave the diodes in when trading vehicles? Thanks again
Hawkeye,
The installation of diodes and any other accessories to achieve quality toad lighting is PERMENANT. It's way too cheap to go through any process of removal. Besides, in some cases, the future owner is seriously appreciative of the work already done. They can simply acquire the vehicle, drive it to the back of their coach, hook it up and they're off to the "while blue yonder".

And yes, I solder all my connections. Again, some guys run and hide when it comes time to "tie" into the factory wiring. Doing it correctly, doing efficiently, and securing it aptly, you WILL NEVER have any issues, with or without warranty still on the vehicle. If you're not sure of what you're doing, and or, have never done anything like that before, then yes, either get someone with experience that has done it RIGHT, or, select another way.

And, you can do it with guidance and, it will come out just fine. Below is a diagram of how I did my 2011 Honda CRV, (been sold). The only thing you'll see that some guys are not even aware that it exists, is a "two wire to three wire tail light converter". That box is there for conversion of a two wire, combo turn/brake light system on the average motor home, to a three wire, separate running, brake, turn (amber) system on many toads, including the CRV.

But, take a look and see how I do it. There are many ways. This one is the way I've done it for 11 toads. Again, the primary difference in any of the toads I've wired is the installation of the tail light converter. On vehicles/toads with combo turn/brake systems, then there's no need to install that tail light converter. A combo turn/brake light wire goes straight through to the combo brake/turn on the toad. Very easy.
Scott

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Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
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