SIMPLE questions about towing 4-Down

[41pu]

From what I’ve found.Manual transmission BMW’s have a internal oil pump that only pumps when the engine is running. When towing the input shaft does not turn..
Good luck.

[NeilV]

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

Correct. ReadyBrake is on the coach, and magnetic brake lights will be the stop lights for the toad.

I plan to let the coach slow the car down since it weighs about as much as the equipment trailer/mower that I use on the properties. If I feel the need, I can add the braking system, but how would that work when our cars/trucks have ABS and the fluid isn't under pressure with the engine off?

With that size car there is usually no option that allows for feeling the need or not as the breakaway and other brake systems are required by law in most states when towing vehicles of that weight. With most motor home chassis already being at the limits of their capacities that can negate any local laws that might allow higher allowances for towing without brakes on the toad. If the Coach Builder says at that weight that brakes are required then there really is no other choice.

However the brake system, steering and traction control along with the steering geometry all factor in when a manufacturer says a car is not to be flat towed. When the car manufacturer says their vehicle is not flat tow-able its time to consider other options such as flatbed, dolly, car rental at your destination or getting a car that is designed to be safely flat towed.

[romson]

Never, ever back up your RV with a flat-tow vehicle connected or you will do serious damage to your toad front wheel alignment!

[Kuzzy]

Wow

[Gilliganrv]

Yes always steering wheel unlocked !!!!

[T00lman]

You need a drop-down hitch. The tow bar should be level.

[Crasher]

Originally Posted by romson

Never, ever back up your RV with a flat-tow vehicle connected or you will do serious damage to your toad front wheel alignment!

Where did you come up with that bit of information? I've been towing 4 down for 20 years and have backed up with all of them. I haven't backed up more than a hundred feet at a time, but have never damaged the toad alignment or the tow bar. It can be done safely if done with caution.

[centauer]

I did that once about 50 mil down the road hit a very bad stretch of road
later two cars were flagging me down I had both front tires gone and was
into my brakes. was told later it was due to the locked steering wheel.

Now I unlock the steering wheel and disconnect the battery (to keep the charge) I have done this on my HHR and later a Subaru Forester, have had no
problems and have over 4250 miles doing this.

[Roadfrog]

Originally Posted by Crasher

Where did you come up with that bit of information? I've been towing 4 down for 20 years and have backed up with all of them. I haven't backed up more than a hundred feet at a time, but have never damaged the toad alignment or the tow bar. It can be done safely if done with caution.

He probably got that "bit of information" from just about any piece of documentation available. I'm new to the 4 down towing, but everything I've read says no-go. Where did YOU get the info otherwise? Other than your personal experience. I'm prepared to do it as a last resort, but since my steering wheel doesn't lock, I risk damaging my front wheels/tires. Also, the tow bar is not designed for pushing.

[MSGDLD]

Am I the only one that read that "Bamaboy' had towed it on a dolly for thousands of miles with no transmission damage? It's rear wheel drive, and "working" the drivetrain for a long time already.

There's other reasons for a manufacturer to list their cars as not being towable, not the least of which is not wanting any legal liability. The same goes for the aftermarket manufacturers.

He didn't ask IF he could tow it, he asked how his setup looked of those that were familiar with 4 down towing because he had to get a custom baseplate made and hadn't flat towed before.

[Penmiester]

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

Blue Ox and Ready Brake on the hitch. 5-speed BMW as the toad

Do you lock the steering wheel with wheels pointed forward, or do you unlock the wheel and let the car find it's way, or do you unlock the wheel and tie the steering wheel down?

Asking for a friend

No! Do not lock the steering wheel, should be free wheeling.



Insure the Blue Ox is properly connected to your toad. Once connected, each bar left and right should be extended and locked. Having someone watching the toad hook up, slowly pull MH forward to insure tow bar extends equally on both sides and locks. If by yourself, can back the toad up Slowly, should hear the locks click into place. Physically check and insure the internal locks on the tow bar lock. Brake off and toad set up for flat tow per your owners manual. The Toad will follow your MH. Dont forget your safety cables and electrical connections are in place and toad brake lights turn signals are functioning.

[Auburn Fan]

I am new to this but I do flat tow. In the photos it appears you may be outside the recommendation of plus or minus 3 inches in height for the hitch and towed attachment point.

[Crasher]

Originally Posted by Roadfrog

He probably got that "bit of information" from just about any piece of documentation available. I'm new to the 4 down towing, but everything I've read says no-go. Where did YOU get the info otherwise? Other than your personal experience. I'm prepared to do it as a last resort, but since my steering wheel doesn't lock, I risk damaging my front wheels/tires. Also, the tow bar is not designed for pushing.

The "Bit of Information" comment was in reference to his statement regarding damage to the alignment of the toad. My first time backing up was out of necessity as it was raining and only 20' or so. Then, one time I tried to turn around in a gravel parking lot in Canada, but didn't quite have enough room. I backed up and maneuvered several times tieing the steering wheel to keep the wheels from turning. Finally gained enough room to complete my turn. It would have taken less time to just unhook, make the turn and rehook, but I thought it would take less time. I was wrong. Since then, all of my backing has been on a paved surface, mostly straight, but occasionally with a slight curve. When in doubt, I'll collapse the arms to reduce the stress on them. It's probably not a practice for the novice, but it does work for short distances if done slowly and carefully. I tow a 6400# Avalanche with the Blue Ox Aventa tow bar rated for 10,000#. I rebuilt it once with new washers, boots and lube.

[Prince]

4-down towing often fails on unpaved roads because the tires may not get enough friction force to direct the wheels properly. When this happens the wheels turn hard right or left and start dragging sideways with disastrous results.

I had this same thing happen on paved road when making a right turn when crossing over a slight v-shaped gutter between the road and a parking lot. The wheels turned hard left. Fortunately I was coming to a stop anyway to park in the lot. I'm theorizing that the front of the gutter pushed the wheels to the left during the right hand turn. Proper direction of the toad wheels is achieved when only the normal area (proper inflation on a flat road) of tire ground contact is in effect and on a paved surface.

I remain somewhat distrustful and certainly cautious when towing 4-down. For this reason I feel much more comfortable towing with a dolly that has none of the above problems, i.e. no locked over hard right or hard left wheels. It doesn't take much inquiry to hear the horror stories of big motorhome owners who found "half-moons" for front wheels due to them locking over unbeknownst to the driver and putting a some miles on them in that position. Even worse is when the heat of the friction dragging sideways sets the toad on fire, sometimes spreading to and destroying the tow vehicle.

In short, 4-down towing depends on wheel directional forces that are weak at best due to the small contact between tire and road, and sometimes in the wrong direction. Some choose not to accept this probability and opt for the dolly with its robust, dependable directional control.