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Old 10-15-2013, 12:29 PM   #15
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:30 PM   #16
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Ditto. They're a site Sponsor & the owner founded iRV2.com. They'll treat you right.

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Old 10-15-2013, 12:47 PM   #17
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Ditto. They're a site Sponsor & the owner founded iRV2.com. They'll treat you right. Lori-
I didn't know all that! I just knew they have good prices and great service!
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:52 PM   #18
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osgoor,

I saw you mentioned a lift in one of your posts. Sorry, but your 37' gasser is not going to be able to handle a motorcycle lift and tow a jeep. You are going to be grossly overweight on the hitch itself as it was not built for 750-1000 pounds you want to put on it. Your max towing rating is 500lb hitch weight and 5000 lbs towing. You might want to look at car dolly that can also accommodate a motorcycle. You might want to rethink what toys you need.

Tag axle Diesel pushers are generally the only motorhomes that can handle a lift and tow a car. Single rear axle diesels are iffy but it depends on how much stuff is on the rear axle.
The motorcycle lift is not part of my needs. I think this was a reply from someone else.
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:23 PM   #19
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I am the one that mentioned a lift. We have a DP that can handle it. I was just mentioning the costs with us towing and the things that we have (or will) acquired for it.
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:51 PM   #20
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Is a braking controller required?
How about wiring for brake lights/turn signals?
Safety chains I assume are required

YES
YES
YES

The brake controller.. If you go with Blue Ox they have a new additio to their line called AUTO STOP. this is a surge brake controller system that is incorporated into the tow bar, NOt unlike the Ready Brake system.. You need to ask Blue Ox about a Break-a-way.. I'm not sure they provide that. but otherwise that would be my first choice


Yes to lights as well, Several options
1: Diode kit, Uses existing lights..
2: Add a lamp Uses existing light fixtures but adds a lamp to the fixture
3: Additioal lights. such as "Tow Lights" not my first choice but not a bad thing to have in your spares box.

NOTE: 1 and 2 the turn signal may be overroad by the vehicle brake lights when the auto-stop kicks in.

Safety chains SHOULD come with the tow bar.
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:19 PM   #21
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Could someone explain the circumstances under which one would choose to install additional brake bulbs? Intuitively, it seems like a lot more effort than installing a couple of diodes in the existing brake light wire.
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:32 PM   #22
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Could someone explain the circumstances under which one would choose to install additional brake bulbs? Intuitively, it seems like a lot more effort than installing a couple of diodes in the existing brake light wire.
I need to run wire all the way to the back, I have to pull the lenses off. I can either drill the unused part of the bottom of the liberty lens and add a light, not worrying about a diode going bad and back feeding the Liberty 12V system, or I can put extra bulbs in an unused portion of the taillight assy. It's a toss-up in my book. I went with drill and lights, not convinced it was the best route, but no problems so far. Next time I will try diodes just so I can say I've tried both!
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:37 PM   #23
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I've had both ...Adding additional bulb is simpler to install/more reliable *IF* you have the space for them in your fixtures. And some newer cars do not respond well to tapping into their wiring.
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:12 PM   #24
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Check EBAY. Brake
Buddy systems are available half price as are Tow Bars. BAse Plates I would buy direct from Blue OX. The safety cables should come with the tow bar.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:27 AM   #25
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Check EBAY. Brake
Buddy systems are available half price as are Tow Bars. BAse Plates I would buy direct from Blue OX. The safety cables should come with the tow bar.
Which of the Brake Buddy products would be preferred and cost effective for the Jeep Liberty?

Thanks
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:32 AM   #26
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Could someone explain the circumstances under which one would choose to install additional brake bulbs? Intuitively, it seems like a lot more effort than installing a couple of diodes in the existing brake light wire.
Well Sir,
You asked for an explanation. In reality, it's a simple decision to go either way. The amount of Physical work, is actually very close. For 99.99% of the vehicles out there, the amount of wire you use/run to get to the back of the toad and do the required work, is identical. But from that point, the similarities change. Many guys are deathly afraid of tying into the factory wiring, for various reasons. Either they've screwed things up in the past, are not sure of their capabilities, had a friend who had a friend who...... goofed things up and had issues, who knows but, they just don't like tying into the factory wiring.

Up until very lately, as in 2012 and newer, tying into just about any toads lighting system is very easy and, in terms of the amount of physical work, doesn't get any easier. There is one exception and, I'll go into that later.

But, the plan is simple. You have wires, factory wiring that is, not the ones you're installing, leading from the front of the vehicle to the toads tail light assemblies. In simplicity, it can be four wires or three wires to each light. On a four wire system you can have:
1. Turn signal light wire (usually for an AMBER lens)
2. Brake light wire
3. Running/tail light/marker lights
4. Ground

On a three wire system the only difference is the elimination of the turn signal wire because the turn signal and brake light wire, is the same wire.

Ok, now you've got the basics. So, when tying into or, splicing, or what ever term you want to use, is done, the way I do it is, find the wire that you want to tie into, i.e. the left turn/brake light wire. I then strip a small amount, usually about 3/8" of an inch ( I don't cut that wire, just strip some of the insulation from it) very close (within a couple of inches) of where it enters the socket plug. I then wrap the appropriate wire that I installed, around that newly stripped section. I then solder it nicely. I then tape it very securely. DONE.

Now, I do the same exact process to the running light/tail light wire. DONE.

Now, I then extend the right turn wire across the underside of the toad, securing it along the way, and up into the backside cavity of the right tail light. Then, I find the RT turn/brake light wire and, do the same exact process. DONE.

Now, the main reason for the installation of DIODES and, where they're installed is, they prevent the signal from the motor home from traveling down stream into the rest of the toads lighting system which, in many cases, can cause the issues some have had.

So, I don't buy the expensive "Diode" packs from Camping World and other RV supplies outlets. I purchase a four pack, from Radio Shack for about $2.98. A diode is a diode, no matter how fancy you package it. So, this is where I DO cut the wires. Just down stream from the "T" joint I've done on both the right and left turn/brake wires, I cut them and install the diodes. I then tape everything very securely and, DONE.

Now, the system is done. And, to me, when towing the toad, and someone is following me and I present signaling from the motor home, the toad presents the same exact picture (in lighting) as it does when someone is driving that toad. To me, it's more natural and normal to the public following it.


Now, as for installing separate sockets and bulbs, as stated, the amount of wire needed to get to the same place of work, is identical. So, here's what most guys do, they select a spot, on the back of the tail light housing, where they can drill a large hole to accommodate the new socket. Now, that socket and bulb, must not come in contact with the factory bulb. Now, once the socket and bulb is installed, the wiring is academic. For obvious reasons, there is no need for any diodes in any portion of that style of installation.

And for the most part, there are no separate "un used" sections of tail light housing, that are completely partitioned off, for the installation of an aftermarket socket and bulb, with only very, very few exceptions.

Now, here's where I find at least one issue with that style of installation.
If you've installed your own bulb, right next to the factory bulb and, you have an "AUXILIARY BRAKING SYSTEM" installed in the toad, and, that braking system activates the toads brake lights, even when the key is off, and you put your turn signal on in the motor home, you now have a blinking light (your newly installed one) right next to a "BRAKE LIGHT" being activated by the toads brake arm. So, you have two bulbs, displaying two different signals, within an inch or so of each other and, for the most part in an "un partitioned tail light housing".

If you have, as one poster mentioned, a separate, unused section of tail light housing, that IS partitioned off, then the matter is not so much of a problem.

So, there, all be it long, is at least my explanation of why I do what I prefer. It's a free planet so, anyone can choose their own method. Now, I mentioned another way of tying into the factory wires. I've never used them but, apparently some have on here. There are newly designed, "PLug and Play" kits you can purchase for tying into the factory wiring. Just how and how well they work, I don't have any experience with them so, I cannot answer that question. I hope this, (long) explanation has helped some. Good luck.
Scott

P.S. I forgot to add the reason for it being harder to do my kind of installation on 2012 and newer cars. It seems many of them have gone to what's called the "CAN BUSS" wiring system. It's a totally different kind of wiring system and, goofing around with it can cause multiple issues. At this point, I'm not sure how to get around it, if one still wanted to tie into the factory lights.
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:48 AM   #27
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So i just finished procuring 95% of what's needed to tow our new 2013 CR-V.

Base Plate - New Blue Ox on Amazon @ $349, cheapest anywhere
Tow Bar - Great condition used Sterling All-Terrain on Craigslist @ $295 includes cover and combo kit w/bag
Safety Chains - Included with tow bar
Braking System - Lightly used Brake Buddy Digital Classic on Craigslist @ $250
Brake Lights - New Blue Ox Bulb & Socket kit Amazon @ $46

$940 so far, doesn't include taxes on new items but no shipping charges incurred at all. Saved myself at least around $1500 so far!
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:48 PM   #28
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Which of the Brake Buddy products would be preferred and cost effective for the Jeep Liberty?

Thanks

We have the Patriot Braking System:
It is ALL electric!
It moves smoothly and proportionally,
You adjust the amount of breaking from the coach,
It has a built in 12V back up battery and break away are standard,
Electric actuator instead of air cylinder,
15 Lbs, half the weight of similar braking systems,
LED display on both the brake and remote control,
Convenient carry handle,
Come standard with on/off switch,
One button Setup,
Unique, easy to use brake pedal clamp,
Larger surface push pad on back of unit to seat
Wrap around cleat on side for storage of plug wiring
BX2506 carrying case is sold separately
Accessory options are available
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