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Old 03-21-2013, 08:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lass View Post
Sky_Boss, I re checked my 2012 owners manual and the only reference for the fuse is to pull the 7.5 amp Accessory radio fuse. which is why I have the single cut off wire harness. If you are planning to add the switch to your 2013, save some time and buy the long stem fuse in advance. The factory mini will not plug in.

Good luck and if you try to install the switch per my pictures posted previously, you can not use the supplied backer nut. Not enough room.
LASS, don't you hate it when things change? LOL Like I said, the downloaded copy of the 2012 CRV on page 256 says, 1. Remove the 7.5 A accessory radio fuse and 7.5 A accessory key lock fuse. These fuses are located in the interior fuse box. I think it is for that reason Blue Ox makes both a single and dual fuse bypass. I will make sure I have the fuse that fits the cable...thanks for that heads up!

I'm thinking you were referring to the pictures on this thread starter? 2012 CRV+SMI AFO+BlueOx

Are you referring to the switch installed on the dash? If so, how did you secure it?
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:06 AM   #16
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I had the AFO on our Diesel Pusher and 2011 4x4 Colorado and loved it once installed it was a no brainer to hook up. With the Colorado I could put the transfer case in neutral the tranny in park AND PULL THE KEY and the steering wheel would be UNLOCKED. How smart is that? GM did good on that part.

However being I sold the Diesel Pusher I now have the Colorado with all the AFO stuff and the Base Plates. I am going to remove everything and see about selling the parts.

We are downsizing to a 24ft View on the Sprinter Chassis and now have a 96 4x4 Tracker I will pull behind it...
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:12 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Sky_Boss View Post
Are you referring to the switch installed on the dash? If so, how did you secure it?
I just responded to your post on the installation and will now expand on it in this thread. I got the idea for the switch location from the Road Master web site but after talking to them, they stated that their picture was for advertising purposes only and the switch would not fit into that location. Well, enough said on that.

Since the harness comes in different lenghts, get the long unit. Mine is about 14". about $65.00

Do not drill the recommended .750 dia. hole. This is to big for my install.

After I removed the blank (dash) plug I drilled a center pilot hole 1st. and than increased in size to my largest bit which was 1/2 inch. From memory, this will have to be opened to .680-.700??

From this point it was a matter of using a hand file to open the hole to just below the thread size of the switch. When you get to the point where the switch is snug but will not slide into the hole, start threading it in. The male threads on the switch will cut thru the plastic and secure the assembly. This was enough resistance to hold it in place.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lass View Post
I just responded to your post on the installation and will now expand on it in this thread. I got the idea for the switch location from the Road Master web site but after talking to them, they stated that their picture was for advertising purposes only and the switch would not fit into that location. Well, enough said on that....
I ordered mine through Blue Ox...we will see if it comes from the same vendor. I will keep your idea in mind. Just might come in handy.
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