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SMI Air Force One Problem?
04-24-2011, 12:56 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Hamburg, NY
Posts: 19
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Just had my new AFO installed.
With lighter depression of my MH brakes (such as normal stopping at lights etc.) the indicator light on the toad vehicle rear view mirror is not coming on. Concerned I put my wife in the toad while stationary and indeed the brake pedal is not being pulled until the indicator light comes on with more modest depression of MH brakes. The toad brake lights, however are coming on when coach brakes are lightly depressed and toad brakes are not pulling. I thought AFO was truly proportional and would depress the toad brakes even with slower stops etc. (not wanting to excessively wear my coach brakes either)??? Is there an adjustment to be made on the AFO or is this possible a error by the installer ( a tech who's done several AFO's previously but never on a Honda Odyssey)???
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04-24-2011, 01:07 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 2,163
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I have the SMI Stay-in-Play and the sensitivity is adjustable. I am not familiar with the SMI AFO.
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Wayne & Roberta and Maggie the Miracle Dog
08 Winnebago Destination Gas UFO
Tire-SafeGuard, Koni's, Scan Gauge II, Blue Ox, SMI Stay-in-Play, Winegard Travler
http://travelinthomas.blogspot.com/
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04-24-2011, 01:23 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 425
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SMI says the AF1 is not adjustable. Have you checked the cable that pulls your TOADS brake pedal to make sure it is moving? It's possible the cable is too loose.
As for the brake light coming on, I hope your TOAD's brake light is directly connected to the RV's brake lights. The TOAD's brake light is supposed to come on at the same time as the RV, so relying on the TOAD's supplementary braking system to light the TOAD's brake light is not recommended. Did you install the optional air line pressure sensor to illuminate the AFI blue light? This should be the standard method of illuminating the blue light as it's the only indicator that the air part of the system is working. I used the optional pressure relay and wired it to a red light on my dash so I don't have to look in the rear view camera to see the blue light.
FWIW, I have noticed that during light braking my AF1 system applies the TOAD's brakes and then gradually releases then unless I increase the RV's braking pressure.
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Gil
2008 Beaver Contessa Westport 42
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04-24-2011, 03:00 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Hamburg, NY
Posts: 19
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ImaginIF
Toad brake lights do come on with any, even light, coach breaking.
When I picked up the vehicle I thought there was a lot of slack in the cable attached to the firewall, but the tech told me that was normal, but maybe it is too much.
As far as the pressure sensor and blue light you are referencing, I have no idea. The only think I have is the illuminating red led on the toad rear view mirror. If there was something optional I didn't know about it and by your description I'm not sure what the blue light shows. Please describe further as I'd really like to know if this is something I need.
The system does work, but just requires too much force to activate it as described in the original post.
Thanks
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04-24-2011, 06:30 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 158
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Have you contacted SMI? If not, do so and you'll find them very responsive.
I have the AFO on my Jeep Liberty. I'm not sure when my toad brakes come on based on my coach brakes, but under light coach braking I would hope the toad brake doesn't come on as I want it to work under moderate or severe braking.
On my Jeep Liberty, I added an extra set of bulbs in the tail lights that are controlled by the coach. They act as normal tail lights, turn signals, and brake lights. I did this so I wouldn't have to mess with diodes. The normal brake lights on the toad come on when the brake pedal in the toad is depressed by the AFO.
Right after hooking up the toad, I pump the coach brakes several times to insure the break away air tank on the toad is filled with air.
I had difficulty seeing the brake indicator light on the toad in my rear view camera so I had a wire run to my coach dash and put a light there.
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Pete - Full Timing
2000 Country Coach Magna 40' #5892
2006 Jeep Liberty
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04-24-2011, 06:53 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImagineIF
SMI says the AF1 is not adjustable. Have you checked the cable that pulls your TOADS brake pedal to make sure it is moving? It's possible the cable is too loose.
As for the brake light coming on, I hope your TOAD's brake light is directly connected to the RV's brake lights. The TOAD's brake light is supposed to come on at the same time as the RV, so relying on the TOAD's supplementary braking system to light the TOAD's brake light is not recommended. Did you install the optional air line pressure sensor to illuminate the AFI blue light? This should be the standard method of illuminating the blue light as it's the only indicator that the air part of the system is working. I used the optional pressure relay and wired it to a red light on my dash so I don't have to look in the rear view camera to see the blue light.
FWIW, I have noticed that during light braking my AF1 system applies the TOAD's brakes and then gradually releases then unless I increase the RV's braking pressure.
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I hooked up my signal lights to the brake light switch on the toad. What optional air pressure switch are you referring to?
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John, Pam, Nicholas, Little Man and Aria
NKK 16073L
2007 Essex 4502 2004 Avalanche
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04-24-2011, 08:00 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 425
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A few answers:
SMI is very helpful. Don't hesitate to call them.
My cable from the air cylinder to the brake pedal does not have any slack in it and it appears to work fine. BTW, the installation directions doesn't suggest any slack. This is likely your problem.
I don't want to be dependent on the TOAD's battery, so I opted for the optional air pressure sensor relay that get's installed in the air line to the brake pedal actuator. It's purpose is to activate the light that indicates the brake system is working. I had thought this was a blue light on the TOAD's rear view mirror, it sounds like it's red. On my installation that rear view mirror mounted light has been mounted on the dash of my RV.
The TOAD's brake light switch on the brake pedal should not be trusted to activate the TOAD's brake lights. The power and brake light signal for the TOAD's brake lights must come from the RV--not the TOAD. If the TOAD's ancillary braking system does not activate when the RV's brakes are applied you still want the TOAD's brake lights to come on--it's the law in most if not all states.
I hope this helps,
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Gil
2008 Beaver Contessa Westport 42
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04-24-2011, 08:35 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Texas Boomers Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 4,562
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On my AF1, the piston is anchored to the floor board, and then to the brake pedal. My light is attached inside my coach. The lights on my Saturn are independent and work on the lights of the MH. My exhaust brake will turn them on. To adjust when the TOAD blue/red light for the AF1 comes on with pressure applied to the MH Brake, try adjusting where the piston is attached to the brake pedal. I'm not sure which way, but raising or lowering the point on the brake pedal arm where the piston is attached will increase or decrease the pressure applied when the coach brake is applied.
Does that make sense? Like stated, give AF1 a call.
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Wayne MSgt USMC (Ret)
2008 Destination 39W
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04-25-2011, 03:00 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Hamburg, NY
Posts: 19
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Thanks ImagineIF and everyone. After reviewing your posts I downloaded install video and pdf. ImagineIF is basically right, they don't recommend much slack at all, but suggest 1/4 to 1/2" of side to side play left in the cable. Mine had upwards of 3" in it. That's in spite of my questioning the technician that did the install if that was too much as it just seemed too slack to me. He, of course, stated no that's how its supposed to be. Well, now I've readjusted the play in the cable and I'll just have to test it in a few days when I have some more time. I just hope this is the simple fix I was looking for and that there is nothing else the technicians messed up by not following the instructions like my airbrake lines!
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04-25-2011, 06:56 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdbaggs
Thanks ImagineIF and everyone. After reviewing your posts I downloaded install video and pdf. ImagineIF is basically right, they don't recommend much slack at all, but suggest 1/4 to 1/2" of side to side play left in the cable. Mine had upwards of 3" in it. That's in spite of my questioning the technician that did the install if that was too much as it just seemed too slack to me. He, of course, stated no that's how its supposed to be. Well, now I've readjusted the play in the cable and I'll just have to test it in a few days when I have some more time. I just hope this is the simple fix I was looking for and that there is nothing else the technicians messed up by not following the instructions like my airbrake lines!
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I have adjustable pedals I had to take into acount when I installed the cylinder. I adjusted the pedal to be the fartherest away from the floor board and adjusted the cable with 1/2 inch slack. When I hook up the toad I adjust the pedals as part of hooking up.
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John, Pam, Nicholas, Little Man and Aria
NKK 16073L
2007 Essex 4502 2004 Avalanche
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