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Old 07-14-2018, 11:09 AM   #1
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Stay-In-Play DUO braking system

I purchased a used Jeep JK that was towed by a MH and has a Stay-IN-Play DOU installed. I know it worked for the previous owner. Jeep is like new with 24,000 on it. I have only towed it once and had no brakes and the red LEDs that you put on the dash do not come on. I did turn the toggle switch on. I don't have a book but will look for one online. Just wondering if anyone had an idea?
Also I have an EeZRV TPMS system that I have used with the MH and with my motorcycle trailer, works fine, best I have ever had. I will be towing the Jeep and have the sensors for it as well. The jeep has the OEM TPMS installed inside the tires. Will there be any problems when I install the sensors for the EeZRV TPMS?
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Old 07-14-2018, 11:34 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete & Linda View Post
I purchased a used Jeep JK that was towed by a MH and has a Stay-IN-Play DOU installed. I know it worked for the previous owner. Jeep in like new with 24,000 on it. I have only towed it once and had no brakes and the red LEDs that you put on the dash do not come on. I did turn the toggle switch on. I don't have a book but will look for one online. Just wondering if anyone had an idea?
I have the same system.

I would first adjust the sensitivity of the control unit. Look on the side of the unit and you'll see an arced slot with a knob somewhere along the arc. That is the sensitivity adjustment. Loosen the knob and moving it downward in the arc will make the control more sensitive to deceleration. Conversely, moving it upward makes the brake control less sensitive.

The knob controls a mercury switch which closes the circuit to activate the system. When the car begins to decelerate, as when the MH applies brakes, the mercury flow forward and closes the circuit. The adjustment control on the side of the box essentially tilts the mercury switch to be closer (downward move) or farther (upward move) from the tipping point where it flows to the contact.

Initial adjustment is to park the car on a level surface while connected to the MH. Have someone apply the brakes in the MH while you are in the car. Turn on the control box, and move the adjusting knob downward until the system begins to activate--in a "stuttering" kind of way. Then, move it upward until it just shuts off.

During the time when your hear the system activate, note if the brake pedal is moving and the brake light switch is powered by the ignition switch. Your red brake light on the dash of the MH, which indicates the brake system is ON, should be lit.

Take a test drive towing the vehicle. The system should activate at a speed over 20 mph when the MH brakes are applied. If it doesn't, reset the sensitivity knob a bit lower.

The PO of your system may have had an engine brake on his MH, as do I. When you set the system as I have described, when the engine brake activates, the MH brake lights comes on and the downhill tilt of the toad plus the deceleration of the transmission downshift of the MH, causes the toad brake system to activate even though the MH brakes are not applied. To compensate, the sensitivity has to be adjusted so the system isn't tricked into thinking the decel from the engine brake is actually a stopping action. The knob is moved upward on the control box from the initial setting on level ground, approximately 1/8th inch. The system will now activate on a strong decel, like from braking, rather than simply a forward tilt of the toad. This may explain why your system was adjusted to be less sensitive and now you don't get braking action during normal driving.
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Old 07-14-2018, 12:56 PM   #3
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pull the breakaway cable to test.



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Old 07-15-2018, 06:48 AM   #4
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Ljwt330: what a great explanation! Better than the manual! I've had this system for years and love it and will clip this for future ref. When we got our DP and took it to WV mountains I killed the TOAD battery because I didn't know the PAC brake activated the brake lights and the TOAD brakes. Dialed back the sensitivity and all is well.
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Old 07-15-2018, 10:00 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Belgique View Post
Ljwt330: what a great explanation! Better than the manual! I've had this system for years and love it and will clip this for future ref. When we got our DP and took it to WV mountains I killed the TOAD battery because I didn't know the PAC brake activated the brake lights and the TOAD brakes. Dialed back the sensitivity and all is well.
Glad I could help.


I got the system for my former MH which did not have the exhaust brake system. When I changed over, similar to your experience, I noticed the red dash light for the brakes coming on when using the exhaust brake on a downhill stretch. Never thought about the issue as I never had an exhaust brake. It's now fixed.


As to your battery dying, sounds as if your toad does not have a charge line from the MH. Not too difficult to add if you have a 7 pin plug in the MH. Might be something to consider.
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:25 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljwt330 View Post
I have the same system.

I would first adjust the sensitivity of the control unit. Look on the side of the unit and you'll see an arced slot with a knob somewhere along the arc. That is the sensitivity adjustment. Loosen the knob and moving it downward in the arc will make the control more sensitive to deceleration. Conversely, moving it upward makes the brake control less sensitive.

The knob controls a mercury switch which closes the circuit to activate the system. When the car begins to decelerate, as when the MH applies brakes, the mercury flow forward and closes the circuit. The adjustment control on the side of the box essentially tilts the mercury switch to be closer (downward move) or farther (upward move) from the tipping point where it flows to the contact.

Initial adjustment is to park the car on a level surface while connected to the MH. Have someone apply the brakes in the MH while you are in the car. Turn on the control box, and move the adjusting knob downward until the system begins to activate--in a "stuttering" kind of way. Then, move it upward until it just shuts off.

During the time when your hear the system activate, note if the brake pedal is moving and the brake light switch is powered by the ignition switch. Your red brake light on the dash of the MH, which indicates the brake system is ON, should be lit.

Take a test drive towing the vehicle. The system should activate at a speed over 20 mph when the MH brakes are applied. If it doesn't, reset the sensitivity knob a bit lower.

The PO of your system may have had an engine brake on his MH, as do I. When you set the system as I have described, when the engine brake activates, the MH brake lights comes on and the downhill tilt of the toad plus the deceleration of the transmission downshift of the MH, causes the toad brake system to activate even though the MH brakes are not applied. To compensate, the sensitivity has to be adjusted so the system isn't tricked into thinking the decel from the engine brake is actually a stopping action. The knob is moved upward on the control box from the initial setting on level ground, approximately 1/8th inch. The system will now activate on a strong decel, like from braking, rather than simply a forward tilt of the toad. This may explain why your system was adjusted to be less sensitive and now you don't get braking action during normal driving.
Wow thanks, what a great and helpful post. As I said I don't have an owners manual but I can't imagine it being as good as your post.

Thanks to everyone for your help and input.
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:37 AM   #7
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Pete & Linda-

Demco bought the SMI product line. The link to the Duo product page is here. You can download a manual from that page. The manual may be newer than your unit, so be wise to the fact some details may be different.

In summary, it takes these conditions to activate the Duo:

1) Vehicle speed over (approximately) 20 mph
2) Brake light signal from coach (Note: This is derived from wiring both the left turn/stop and right turn/stop signals to the control unit- the one with the switch)
3) Deceleration signal (subject to sensitivity setting)

Check for all three conditions.

You do not need the coach connected or its inputs to test the system (per Mike, in post #3). With the toad prevented from rolling, pull the breakaway switch pin with the system armed. The power unit should activate (noise) and the brake pedal depresses (movement). Also, on our toad the brake lights go on, even with the ignition off. That is not the case for all vehicles. Replace the pin promptly after testing.

Like many others, I elected not to mount the brake activation LED "bar" in the toad. I mounted an LED on the coach dash and ran the brake activation signal from the toad to the dash using the "unused" trailer electric brake wire in the coach hitch connector.
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
Pete & Linda-

Demco bought the SMI product line. The link to the Duo product page is here. You can download a manual from that page. The manual may be newer than your unit, so be wise to the fact some details may be different.

In summary, it takes these conditions to activate the Duo:

1) Vehicle speed over (approximately) 20 mph
2) Brake light signal from coach (Note: This is derived from wiring both the left turn/stop and right turn/stop signals to the control unit- the one with the switch)
3) Deceleration signal (subject to sensitivity setting)

Check for all three conditions.

You do not need the coach connected or its inputs to test the system (per Mike, in post #3). With the toad prevented from rolling, pull the breakaway switch pin with the system armed. The power unit should activate (noise) and the brake pedal depresses (movement). Also, on our toad the brake lights go on, even with the ignition off. That is not the case for all vehicles. Replace the pin promptly after testing.

Like many others, I elected not to mount the brake activation LED "bar" in the toad. I mounted an LED on the coach dash and ran the brake activation signal from the toad to the dash using the "unused" trailer electric brake wire in the coach hitch connector.

Thank you also. I am at this time having some health problems and will not be able to check everything out for a while. I will save everyone's help and I think armed with all this good info should be fine.
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