Stop Low Battery Situation in Toads (maybe)

[wa8yxm]

Originally Posted by Brockx

Why not connect from the MH chassis battery a positive and negative wire to the Toad battery. This parallel system would keep the Toad charged.

Several answers based upon this thought.

First. YOU should install an aux braking system on the towed so it helps stop when you stand on the brakes (very good idea, in fact required in many states).

The US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator includes just such a line (Towed battery charge) Since it eats battery power.

The Invisi-Brake system likewise provides for charging the towed.

And there is a product called "Towed Charge" that does it.

On my coach the first towed had the US gear system. One time as I pulled out of my drive, 3am, Jan 2, (What are the odds of getting anything fixed at that hour) I checked my lights, no tail on the towed.. I double checked what I though was the case, Pressed the Parking lights button and 2,000 miles later got it fixed.

When I got a new towed (Different braking system, no electricity eaten) I used the same lead,, I just spliced in a different connector for it.

Put a 2nd pigtail with the same connector on the front of the motor home so when I'm parked for a week without driving the motor home system keeps the towed battery up.

Motor home as a Progressive Dynamics 9180 with wizard (One of the best systems made) for charging batteries.

Towed battery is in better shape today than it was when I picked it up from the dealer.. Seems the 9180 is desulfating a bit. NOT complaining.

[Steve Ownby]

Originally Posted by njs42

TOAD-CHARGE Dinghy Vehicle Battery Charger/Maintainer

I use one of these gizmos, works great cost more than DYI but I like what I have.

X2. Very clean and simple install. Fairly inexpensive with protection at both ends.

[tlkhorses]

Originally Posted by Steve Ownby

X2. Very clean and simple install. Fairly inexpensive with protection at both ends.

X3. I used the wire through the umbilical and put the breaker and charger in the toad. Very easy install.

[Brockx]

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

Several answers based upon this thought.

First. YOU should install an aux braking system on the towed so it helps stop when you stand on the brakes (very good idea, in fact required in many states).

Actually I have decided to go with surge brakes, most likely Acme Dolly, although still looking at the Ready Brute tow system.

[ShapeShifter]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

I connected chassis batteries (in rear of RV) to toad battery using center conductor of 6 pin Blue Ox coiled cable. Near each battery I installed a 30 amp auto resetting circuit breaker to protect the wiring.

This is easy to do, and the breakers (or fuses) on EACH END are essential, you shouldn't try to get away with only one (or none!) This is a circuit that is being powered from both ends. If the umbilical should develop a short, and there is a breaker/fuse on only one end, the other end of the circuit will still be supplying power and could cause a fire or other damage.

I have done the same as others here, and have this type of charge line running to my toad, with circuit breakers on each end. It has served me well and I've not had any issues. The TOAD-CHARGE looks like it has some interesting features, but it may be overkill. It may be important if the toad battery is dead and you need to limit charging current, but if your toad has a normal charge before hooking up this shouldn't be a problem. And it may be nice to isolate the power to prevent the toad from drawing down the coach battery over time, but how often do you leave the toad connected to the coach while in long term storage? The TOAD-CHARGE strikes me as a solution in search of a problem. There's nothing wrong with two simple circuit breakers.

There's also some discussion here of the current flowing from the toad to the coach when starting the coach. I'm sure it happens, but I've never seen it to be an issue.

I have no direct experience to offer Qwert66, as I use a different braking system and it has not had any issues with the standard circuit breaker setup. Maybe a TOAD-CHARGE controller will help in this case? From the FAQ for the toad charge (sounds like it provides the function of Qwert66's proposed diode):

WHAT HAPPENS IF I START EITHER VEHICLE WHILE TOAD-CHARGE™ IS CONNECTED?
The Charge Controller prevents your motorhome from supplying excessive current through the wire harness when you start the dinghy vehicle's engine. Similarly, the Charge Controller will not allow any current to flow from the dinghy back to the motorhome, thereby preventing excessive current draw when you start the motorhome engine.

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by Brockx

Actually I have decided to go with surge brakes, most likely Acme Dolly, although still looking at the Ready Brute tow system.

CONGRATS on considering a dolly to tow your car!

Your car will be happy - riding up high away from rock strikes (it happens - don't let anyone tell you they have NEVER had a rock strike while flat towing, unless they are new to it)

You and your car will happy - saving the hidden miles on the lower drive-line.

And, you will be happy - knowing that there are no hidden miles on the car at resale time.

The Acme Eze-Tow is a very good choice. It's lightweight, affordable, easy to use, and simple as can be.

The surge/disc brakes are WONDERFUL and provide the correct amount of brake pressure for the dolly from fully loaded to empty with no adjustment or operator involvement.

*Specifically for the Acme Eze-Tow, be sure to unlock the steering on your car while towing so the front wheels can swing in a turn - just like the flat tow cars.
*And, be sure to check the wheel straps for tightness, just like any cargo strap on an open trailer or any other dolly.

We have over 10,000 miles on a second hand Acme Eze-Tow and have had no problems.

Not a requirement, but I did change one of the sealed hub caps to a "bearing-buddy" hub cap so I can grease it. The other hub cap will be changed soon too...that's just me.

Best of luck!

[ShapeShifter]

Originally Posted by Scarab0088

You and your car will happy - saving the hidden miles on the lower drive-line.

Just remember to rotate tires often, maybe more often than usual, given that the rear tires will rack up more miles than the front. Keep them rotated to even out the wear. Also keep an eye on rear wheel bearings and shocks. All those hidden miles still rack up on the rear suspension/axle/tires.

[wa8yxm]

I will add to my prior comments and add one more item.

I mentioned I use the towed charge line from my US-Gear with both the old and new car.. On the old car the line had a 20 amp breaker where it hooked to the RV's system and as I recall a 40 at the towed,

With the new towed there is still a 20 amp breaker on the RV (did not change) and for now a 25 amp fuse on the towed, it will become a breaker in time when I get a round-tuit.

Pulling a fuse....

Depending on the towed it may be necessary to disable something on the towed.. Like the odometer.. The fuse MAY be for that, not saving the battery. Varies from towed to towed.

[bobmac]

I have a Blue Ox system including the cable and the Patriot brake. On the coach 7 pin connector, there is a 12 volt line from the MH. It connects through the 7-6 pin Blue Ox cable so you will have a reliable 12 v supply at the connector you install at the toad. You need to wire it out from the connector to the battery and add an auto resetting circuit breaker. This will supply reliable power to the brake and charge the brake's battery if it has one - the Patriot does. There is no need for a diode as you are just going to the battery and not other systems in the car that might benefit from a blocking diode and usually with only a few amps - I used 10 amp breaker.

[Qwert66]

bobMac,

Thanks for your reply.

Can you have your patriot brake setup and running in the toad, tow umbilical cord in place and then start your Coach without the patriot faulting out for low battey caused by the drop in voltage during the big amp draw of starting the diesel engine?

Mine faults out using direct 12 ga feed wire from MH, (thru umbilical) to brake (toad battery not paralleled in yet) and 20amp breakers at each end. I'll have to check if the breakers are auto reseting style. It's on a Cummins ISC 8.3L.

[bobmac]

Qwert66

Haven't noticed it so I guess I haven't.
Keep in mind that there is always 12v from the motorhome and 12v from the Toad battery so I haven't had the low voltage error message - except when I forget to plug in the brake and the internal battery fails. Before I hooked up the line to the Coach, the braking system would run down the small car battery on the HHR on a long day and I was motivated to eliminate that problem which the line from the coach did. Generally with a coach hookup, you will not charge or deplete the toad battery rather just power the brake system and keep the car battery up. I should note that I ran the coach 12v line directly to the toad battery. If you were to use that line to feed a new lighter plug, I suspect the voltage drop when starting the coach would cause an error message on the brake system.

[wa8yxm]

I have neither tripped a breaker or blown a fuse starting the motor home when towing with the system I use.

Advantage of a diode.. If you say.. left the headlights on on the MH it would not take the towed battery down.

Disadvantage of a Diode.. Voltage drop.

[Brockx]

Originally Posted by Scarab0088

CONGRATS on considering a dolly to tow your car!

Your car will be happy - riding up high away from rock strikes (it happens - don't let anyone tell you they have NEVER had a rock strike while flat towing, unless they are new to it)

You and your car will happy - saving the hidden miles on the lower drive-line.

And, you will be happy - knowing that there are no hidden miles on the car at resale time.

The Acme Eze-Tow is a very good choice. It's lightweight, affordable, easy to use, and simple as can be.

The surge/disc brakes are WONDERFUL and provide the correct amount of brake pressure for the dolly from fully loaded to empty with no adjustment or operator involvement.

*Specifically for the Acme Eze-Tow, be sure to unlock the steering on your car while towing so the front wheels can swing in a turn - just like the flat tow cars.
*And, be sure to check the wheel straps for tightness, just like any cargo strap on an open trailer or any other dolly.

We have over 10,000 miles on a second hand Acme Eze-Tow and have had no problems.

Not a requirement, but I did change one of the sealed hub caps to a "bearing-buddy" hub cap so I can grease it. The other hub cap will be changed soon too...that's just me.

Best of luck!

Bought a "new" 2012 Sunday for $1100 with a spare tire, guy bought it and never used it, all 3 tires have all the mold "nubbies" on them.

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by Brockx

Bought a "new" 2012 Sunday for $1100 with a spare tire, guy bought it and never used it, all 3 tires have all the mold "nubbies" on them.

Congrats again!

A side note....in 2011 and part of 2012 (I think) Acme had a system called ARS that strapped the toad to the dolly with 2 chains that went over the front suspension...
!!!DO NOT STRAP THE CARS FRONT SUSPENSION TO THE EZE TOW WITH CHAINS!!!*

The ARS was discontinued because it did not allow the "swing" needed from the car's front steering and can cause damage to the car and dolly.

After the chain ARS was discontinued, Acme kept the single front web strap connection (dual behind the tire), returning to web tire straps just like all other dollys.

*This chain set-up should not be confused with the safety chains that should always be used to prevent a run-away in case of total strap failure.

Like said before, because the Acme does not have a pivot pan or steering axle, be sure to unlock the toads steering so it's front wheels can swing, allowing the needed pivot to make tight turns - and - check your straps whenever you stop to check for tightness...all web straps loosen over time.

I love my Acme dolly...so EZE to use!

Best luck