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Old 09-11-2013, 06:52 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
Congrats again!

!!!DO NOT STRAP THE CARS FRONT SUSPENSION TO THE EZE TOW WITH CHAINS!!!*


I love my Acme dolly...so EZE to use!

Best luck

Thanks for the good info!

I had wondered about the chain set-up, looked it up on U Tube and found a video from Acme on installing them. Yikes, on that video they ran the chains right over the front wheel brake calipers.

When I got home with the dolly and my "bag -o- stuff" I realized he had forgot to put the safety chains in the bag. I assume they are just sturdy chains with S hooks to loop around the dolly frame and something stronger than wiring and radiator hoses on the car .

No manuals either, guess I will need to call and beg/buy from Acme, you aware of any PDF's etc. available?

I originally was going to buy a Chevy Spark to tow, decided I was nuts to spend that money for a TOAD. Going to look at a couple of Sunfire convertibles today. Want to stay under 3000#'s for the car.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:01 AM   #30
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No manuals either, guess I will need to call and beg/buy from Acme, you aware of any PDF's etc. available?
A Google search turned this up on the second click: http://cartowdolly.com/online-owners-manual/

It looks like there is good info on the other pages of that site, as well.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:11 AM   #31
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A Google search turned this up on the second click: Acme Tow Dolly " EZE-TOW" Car Tow Dolly- Online Owners manual | Car Tow Dolly

It looks like there is good info on the other pages of that site, as well.
Thank you, I had seen that and read it a couple of times. I have been thru their website a couple of times. Some of the best info has came from U Tube videos. I am especially interested in function and maintenance of the brake system.

Acme has a very good product but needs a little more sophistication on their manuals and tutorials, IMHO. In one of my past lives I wrote a ton of manuals and operating instructions, so I'm kind of anal about it.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:21 AM   #32
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I know what you mean about poor manuals. Unfortunately, I think this might be all you're going to get. :(
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Old 09-13-2013, 02:06 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Brockx View Post
Thanks for the good info!

I had wondered about the chain set-up, looked it up on U Tube and found a video from Acme on installing them. Yikes, on that video they ran the chains right over the front wheel brake calipers.

When I got home with the dolly and my "bag -o- stuff" I realized he had forgot to put the safety chains in the bag. I assume they are just sturdy chains with S hooks to loop around the dolly frame and something stronger than wiring and radiator hoses on the car .

No manuals either, guess I will need to call and beg/buy from Acme, you aware of any PDF's etc. available?

I originally was going to buy a Chevy Spark to tow, decided I was nuts to spend that money for a TOAD. Going to look at a couple of Sunfire convertibles today. Want to stay under 3000#'s for the car.
You are exactly right about the safety chains being simple chain pieces with s-hooks on the ends.

If Acme offers them to you for anything more than $20, just go to WalMart...they stock Reese replacements for that...and the ends are threaded locking loops vs. s-hooks.

Best luck.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:22 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
You are exactly right about the safety chains being simple chain pieces with s-hooks on the ends.

If Acme offers them to you for anything more than $20, just go to WalMart...they stock Reese replacements for that...and the ends are threaded locking loops vs. s-hooks.

Best luck.
Thanks for the info, I'm sure Acme would be well North of $20.

I did e-mail them about the Manuals, they said $30 for hard or E-copies. Are they worth the cost, meaning is their good info on brakes and such??
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Old 09-14-2013, 02:35 AM   #35
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Thanks for the info, I'm sure Acme would be well North of $20.

I did e-mail them about the Manuals, they said $30 for hard or E-copies. Are they worth the cost, meaning is their good info on brakes and such??
Sorry, I didn't get manuals...bought ours used too.

I have not had any reason to need a manual. There is no owner adjustment in the brakes...
I have just checked the brake pads and brake fluid, just like a car...visually looking for pad thickness to get thin or low fluid in the tank under the plastic cap.

The original wheel bearings are sealed and not knowing the exact age and mileage, I have switched 1 to a Bearing Buddy serviceable hub and will switch the other soon...but that is just me. The "Vault" hub bearings have spring loaded caps and are rated for 5 years service free.

The rest of the dolly is just welded steel, so not too much else to watch besides tire and web strap wear.

Best luck
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:38 AM   #36
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Sorry, I didn't get manuals...bought ours used too.

I have not had any reason to need a manual. There is no owner adjustment in the brakes...
I have just checked the brake pads and brake fluid, just like a car...visually looking for pad thickness to get thin or low fluid in the tank under the plastic cap.

The original wheel bearings are sealed and not knowing the exact age and mileage, I have switched 1 to a Bearing Buddy serviceable hub and will switch the other soon...but that is just me. The "Vault" hub bearings have spring loaded caps and are rated for 5 years service free.

The rest of the dolly is just welded steel, so not too much else to watch besides tire and web strap wear.

Best luck
Just realized I high-jacked my own thread with all this ACME talk. One more question though. My first boat trailer (1971) had surge brakes, there was a pin you inserted so you could back up loaded without activating the brakes.

I'm thinking this is what the acme uses, goes in the oval window slot on the box covering the brake cylinder, but if correct, it's a two man job, nothing to keep it there that I have been able to figure.
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Old 09-15-2013, 02:15 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Brockx View Post
Just realized I high-jacked my own thread with all this ACME talk. One more question though. My first boat trailer (1971) had surge brakes, there was a pin you inserted so you could back up loaded without activating the brakes.

I'm thinking this is what the acme uses, goes in the oval window slot on the box covering the brake cylinder, but if correct, it's a two man job, nothing to keep it there that I have been able to figure.
Yes, that "paddle" shaped key is the backing lock to over ride the surge brake.
There is no keeper so it will drop out as soon as you pull forward after backing...maybe a liability thing(?). Most owners just use a piece of tape to hold it in position.

The pin on the key ring in your picture is the hitch lock safety pin...most owners use a hitch pad lock instead, so the pin is not used.

I think the key ring and pin might be too heavy if left in place and cause the brake lock key to fall out before it should...thats when the tape comes in handy.

Best luck
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Old 09-15-2013, 02:54 PM   #38
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Yes, that "paddle" shaped key is the backing lock to over ride the surge brake.
There is no keeper so it will drop out as soon as you pull forward after backing...maybe a liability thing(?). Most owners just use a piece of tape to hold it in position.

The pin on the key ring in your picture is the hitch lock safety pin...most owners use a hitch pad lock instead, so the pin is not used.

I think the key ring and pin might be too heavy if left in place and cause the brake lock key to fall out before it should...thats when the tape comes in handy.

Best luck
Thanks, the tape is a good idea, think I'll try to magnetize it, have not done that since I was a kid, retirees have a lot of time
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:06 PM   #39
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Thanks for your reply but unfortunately I am looking for actual experience and not thoughts in this case as I would not like to purchase the diode if not necessary. I understand fully what you are saying but not sure if the breaker would kick out fast enough (or the added length of wire from the chassis battery) to keep the brake out of low battery faulting. my isc 8.3 takes about 3 revs to fire.
ACTUALLY!
I had my base plate, breakaway switch, tail lights and charge line installed by a Hitch Shop. They ran the charge line to the toad through a 20A fuse off the Coach Chassis Battery using the Center Pin. No Diodes. Works great.
No pulling fuses or dead battery on the Toad. (I use the BlueOx Patriot)
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:14 PM   #40
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On my boat trailer I have to use a 5 way plug instead of 4 flat. The extra wire is connected to back up lights. So when in reverse it locks out the brakes. Therefore no fooling with manually locking out brakes. This is how most boat trailers with disk brakes work. You might check with Acme.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:41 PM   #41
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On my boat trailer I have to use a 5 way plug instead of 4 flat. The extra wire is connected to back up lights. So when in reverse it locks out the brakes. Therefore no fooling with manually locking out brakes. This is how most boat trailers with disk brakes work. You might check with Acme.
Good point, but Acme has not installed an over-ride servo on the master. My boat has one and it is obvious when you have it.

The EZE-Tow is the model of keeping it simple.

Safe travels
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:12 AM   #42
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Good point, but Acme has not installed an over-ride servo on the master. My boat has one and it is obvious when you have it.

The EZE-Tow is the model of keeping it simple.

Safe travels

A little more info:

Call or E-mail Adriane at acmetowdolly@gmail.com and she can send you the manuals as PDF's, no charge. Definitely some good info to have, especially on resetting the system if the breakaway cord is actuated by accident or function. There is a sacrificial clip involved.

Also there is an electrical back-up lock-out system available from the brake manufacturer. Acme really don't want you backing these things up loaded so I assume that is why only the Mechanical key is provided.
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