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Old 08-14-2015, 07:05 AM   #15
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As we travel back toward home the question is do we spend big bucks to set up a 2010 Buick Enclave with 68,000 miles or buy a new vehicle that is easier to prepare and easier to tow? My wife and I have learned that we only need one car in our retirement...but it needs to be a good one. That's why we like the Enclave but you almost have to take the front end off to put on a base plate.

We once bought a new 2 door Jeep Wrangler. I traded it at 7,000 mile because it need tending at interstate speed so badly that if your mind wandered it would head for the ditch. I understand the 4 door models with the longer wheelbase are better handling at speed. Jeeps seem to be popular for toads.

https://youtu.be/jBZAaQIscOg
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:50 PM   #16
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No other modern vehicle is likely to be any cheaper, except maybe that Wrangler you mentioned. And even then only a few hundred. Any competent installer can "take the front end apart" in an hour and the parts all cost about the same regardless of vehicle.

The only real decision is how long you will keep the current Enclave. If you expect to trade it next year anyway, don't spend money on it now - get the new [whatever brand you like] now. But if it's going to be 3-4 years until trade-time, then do it.

I've been hanging onto my '07 Acadia (93k miles) cause I don't want to drop money into setting up a new toad. We will probably becoming off the road soon, so no point in getting a new toad. We bought a non-toad for a daily driver and now the Acadia doesn't move much except when the RV goes on tour.
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Old 08-15-2015, 02:30 PM   #17
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Gary,

You have convinced me get the Enclave ready for towing. It is a great car and for the bucks to replace it with something new but of lesser quality we can spend a lot on repairs to the Enclave.

Thanks
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:43 PM   #18
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I have pulled the trigger on this deal. Blue Ox tow bar and base plate with M&G brakes. My owner's manual only mentions pulling the Batt 1 fuse under the hood. Blue Ox and my Buick service manager says to pull also the 50 amp fuse in the battery compartment. I was referred to a company named Remco who supposedly knows everything and the woman who answered the phone gave me a lecture about not driving over 65 mph. She did not have a clue about fuses.

Blue Ox makes a bypass switch for each fuse....one heavy duty one for the 50 amp and one light one for the Batt 1 fuse. My question is what exactly is accomplished by pulling each of the fuses?

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Old 08-25-2015, 04:54 PM   #19
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Hard to say without consulting a GMC tech manual.On my '07, it disables the Body Computer and all the things it controls, and I've not found a comprehensive list of that. Newer models needed more fuses pulled as they found or added additional things that could be a problem.

Ask Buick about any TSBs that might pertain to Dinghy Towing. They may have found additional fuses that need to be pulled since yours was printed. The owner manual in my '07 Acadia was completely wrong re the towing instructions and after I worked with a good dealer and made a warranty claim against GMC, they issued a TSB that completely revamped the tow instructions.
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:21 PM   #20
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Good thought. I'll take my manual over to the dealer tomorrow.

Now that I think about it the 50 amp battery fuse should disconnect the entire car from anything electrical including the above mentioned bright lights problem. Should be deader than a door nail with it removed. All electricity would now come from the coach for lights, etc.
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
I've been hanging onto my '07 Acadia (93k miles) cause I don't want to drop money into setting up a new toad. We will probably becoming off the road soon, so no point in getting a new toad. We bought a non-toad for a daily driver and now the Acadia doesn't move much except when the RV goes on tour.
We're hanging onto our '05 Odyssey (101,000 now) for the same reason. Not sure how much longer we'll be traveling due to the DW's cancer so no reason to put money into a new towed. Wouldn't have bought the Magna had we known as it used up most of our ready cash.
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Old 08-26-2015, 05:47 PM   #22
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Mine has two 50A fuses (Batt1 and Batt2) and they each supply a bus with several smaller fuses. And there are other circuits that do not seem to be affected by either 50A fuse.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:15 AM   #23
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I just talked to a very smart Buick serviceman about dinghy towing a Buick Enclave or any other Lambda series GM vehicle such as the Acadia and Traverse.

The most current GM document is 2870602 released June 13, 2012. This document breaks down the years covered into three categories, each of which has the information on which fuses to pull and if they need to be pulled in a particular order.

2007-2008 need only one fuse pulled.
2009-4-30-2012 need two pulled.
After 5-1-2012 need three pulled and must be done in a certain order.

None of the instructions mention pulling anything at the battery box under the back floorboard. That is done only on 2013 and newer to negate the need for a pulling order as mentioned above for mid 2012's

The tech this morning checked to see if this information was still the latest and he said that it was.

The RVpartsplus website has a link to this document.

https://www.rv-partsplus.com/content...rge%20SUVs.pdf

That said, if any of you guys/gals have any advice on additional measures that should be take on a 2010 model, please chime in.

Thanks

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Old 09-04-2015, 11:37 AM   #24
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Joelyn5,

I am getting a tow plate put on my 2014 GMC Acadia next week and I am going to have them install a line to charge my battery while I tow. The Acadia owners manual states that I have to pull three fuses (BATT1, ECM and OnStar) to prevent the battery from draining while being towed. Will the charge line keep my battery from discharging without the fuses being pulled? I don't know what help the charge line will be if I have to pull the fuses anyway. Am I better off to forget the charge line and install fuse switches instead? Any help would be appreciated!

Also, I notice that you have an RVibrake2 which is like the one I just ordered. If you pull the Batt1 fuse how do you power the RV1brake?

Finally, what brake light system did you use for your Acadia? Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Bob

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2014 GMC Acadia
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:05 PM   #25
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I used a 10 amp Toad Charge when I set up my new Acadia back in February, 2007, and it was not sufficient to keep the battery up. Seemed amazing to me that it could actually be pulling that much power with everything turned off, but the dead battery was hard to refute. I made a fuse switch and had no further problem.

A friend of mine just did the charge line for his new Acadia and is just now trying it out. I don't have any feedback from it yet.
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:09 PM   #26
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2010 Buick Enclave

Blue Ox tow bar and base plate and M&G air brake system with Blue Ox fuse bypass switches for ECM and Batt 1.

I finally got it all hooked up today and followed the procedures in this link...

https://www.rv-partsplus.com/content...6-13-12Rev.pdf

When I unhooked and turned off the EMC and Batt 1 fuse by pass switches several error messages appeared. When I turned the ECM by pass on again and off they all went away except the check engine light.

How can I make that go away?
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:22 PM   #27
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We pull a 2012 Enclave with an Air Force One brake and Blue Ox tow bar. Both work well and we are required to pull one 15 amp and one 50 amp fuse. After about 6000 miles of towing we have had no issues with our set up. We run the car for at least five minutes before and after towing and follow the procedure for getting the transmission and key position right. I keep thinking I should look into an alternative to the fuse pulling but have not as yet.
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:45 AM   #28
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To answer my own question about the check engine light staying on, I went to the Buick dealer this morning and they explained what was going on.

They hooked the car up to the diagnostic system and made the light go away. Then they changed a setting on the EMC system so that it should not happen again.

They confirmed that my pre and post towing settings and order of throwing the fuse bypass switches was correct....as stated in the link in post 26.
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