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Old 09-05-2015, 12:13 PM   #29
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Lambob, you have some great questions. The charge line goes directly into the battery positive terminal and is protected by an automatically resetting fuse. So I know the battery is being charged. I never thought about it but the 12V plug by the shift lever that I plug the RVI2 into must still be hot even when the BATT1 fuse is pulled because the RVI still works (control panel lights on, sending signals to the monitor in the coach etc). So why do I pull the BATT1 fuse? Tech at the dealership said that I didn't need to since I had a charge line. But several folks on this forum told me that if the BATT1 fuse is not pulled odometer will accumulate miles while towing. Don't know if that is true. Tail/brake light question: my baseplate installer absolutely would not tap into the factory wiring. Said if I wanted that I'd have to go someplace else. Said that with today's complex electrical systems if anything went wrong the dealer would immediately claim that it was caused by tapping into the wiring. So they drilled a hole in taillight reflector and installed a separate bulb, independent of the car electrical system. Works great----but I wanted a LED bulb and he couldn't get it to work with my coach. Claimed he put resistors in the line but that still didn't solve the problem. So I'm stuck with regular incandescent filament bulbs. I think there was a problem with dealer knowledge but since we were leaving shortly after the baseplate was installed I didn't have time to argue with him. Will do that the next time I'm near him. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-06-2015, 12:13 AM   #30
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Joelyn5, you answered a lot of questions for me with your reply. I have made an offer on a used RVibrake2 but I was concerned that I could not plug it in and get power if the 50amp BATT! fuse is pulled. Apparently that is not the case. One problem solved! Are you also required to pull the OnStar fuse and EMC fuse as well. Do you know the purpose of this?

It would seem logical to me that if the only reason I am pulling fuses is to keep the battery from running down then the trickle charger should handle the problem. Have you noticed any toad mileage accumulation while towing with the fuses in? Thanks for your help! Bob
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Old 09-06-2015, 10:55 AM   #31
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Lambob, my owner's manual (2015 Acadia) says to pull the BATT1 fuse and two more fuses in the battery compartment. After discussing it with the tech at the dealer (maybe he knew what he was talking about and maybe not) he said that since I had a chargeline he didn't see any reason to pull the two battery box fuses. I pull the BATT1 fuse and the two 10 amp highbeam headlight fuses (to keep the lights from coming on) and don't mess with any other fuse. I know for fact that I do not accumulate any mileage when the BATT1 fuse is pulled. Hope the dealer tech was right about the other two fuses. Hope this helps---but as a longtime reader of this forum I know that sometimes free advice is worth what you pay for it. Good luck.
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Old 09-06-2015, 10:55 AM   #32
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The Check light would clear after a few on/off cycles anyway.
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:20 PM   #33
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Joelyn5 - Thanks for the help. I'm going to pull the 50amp BATT1 fuse tomorrow and see if the lights come on. If so I will pull the two additional fuses. I would think my 2014 would be the same as your 2015 Acadia. I can also check and see if the charger is hot for my RVibrake2. If all is well I will have the trickle charger installed when CW puts on my base plate Tuesday. Bob
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:34 AM   #34
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We made a 80 mile tow yesterday and the check engine light did not come on after the uncoupling.
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:44 AM   #35
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Ron your post was very helpful. Can you tell me the Blue OX fuse bypass part number? I looked them up on line and there seems to be many different bypass switches. We also tow a 2010 Enclave and would like to install the bypass switch. Thank you for any information you can give us.
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:56 AM   #36
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Fuse bypass switch source:

https://www.rv-partsplus.com/rving-fuseswitch

Works great on our 2010 Acadia, twin of the 2010 Enclave!
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Old 11-06-2015, 08:56 AM   #37
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At the above link...

I know BATT 1 is the high current model. I am not sure which one does my ECM. You might call the guy at rvparts plus. He is very helpful and I think he makes the switches for Blue OX
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:24 PM   #38
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We just acquired a 2008 Newmar Mountain Aire. We have a 2014 Buick Enclave that we plan to tow. I went to our local RV dealer who sells Newmar's and asked if we should bring the vehicles to them to prepare to tow or do we go to a Buick dealer. They said they could take care of everything.

Here is what they indicated we'd need:
BX1708 $445
RVI2 $1395
Blue Ox AC Kit $318
Alpha tow bars $745
Subtotal $2903
+5% tax 3057
Labor $1400
Total $4457

They also indicated they would fix it so that we didn't have to pull fuses. I'm an accountant and know absolutely nothing about mechanical issues so I told them I wanted it as simple as possible.

We are going on our first trip leaving Dec 7 and will return about Feb 15. We have decided not to tow on this first trip - figure just driving the unit will be enough for the first trip. We'll get the tow set up when we return.
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:32 PM   #39
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What is the RV12 ?
I am assuming that may be an auxiliary brake.
If this is a system you have to add and remove when towing. A simpler solution would be an AF1.


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Old 11-14-2015, 08:08 AM   #40
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judatt,

Mine was about $3900 out the door with an M&G brake. Same Blue Ox parts
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