Toad braking systems?

[Jparker]

Hello fellow RVers! My wife and I have a 2010 32' Adventurer. We are pulling a 2013 4x4 Ford F150. There seems to be many tow vehicle brake systems available out there but we are confused on which one to purchase. I would also like to install it myself due to such extreme labor costs dealers want. Any advise. :anyone

[Steve Kiemele]

I have had experience (bad) with Blue Ox and EvenBrake. Of these two, EvenBrake is worse. You need something because your combination has to be pushing the GCWR.

[Jparker]

Thanks, and I'm sure I am pushing it to the limit. That's why I'm looking for the best one.

[motohomer]

I recommend that you get your truck and coach weighed. Our 1500 avalanche is just over 6000 lbs. Yours should be similar. I don't have the current specs, but our 2007 adventurer 33V only had about 4500 of gcvwr left.
That said, a blue ox baseplate and ready-brute bar/break has worked great for us.

[Tomtall]

Never used one but I like the concept. Stupid simple install and it's mechanical not vacuum operated. Maybe someone can chime in how how they work in real world application.

ReadyBrake Supplemental Brake System for Towed Vehicles - NSA RV Products

[edgray]

Originally Posted by Jparker

Thanks, and I'm sure I am pushing it to the limit. That's why I'm looking for the best one.

IMO, the best two brake systems are the US Gear "unified tow brake", which is all electric and therefore ideal for coaches without chassis air, and the M & G system, which requires an air supply. I believe the M & G system is less "complicated", but you have to add a small air compressor and reserve tank to a gasser. There are also excellent products made by SMI called "Air Force one" and "stay & play" or something like that......
I'm sure you can find lots of info and the manufacturer's website with a simple Google search.

[grtharris]

Jparker, There is lots of info over at the Toads and Motorhome Related Towing Forum in the Motorhome Forum.

[SuperGewl]

Originally Posted by Jparker

Hello fellow RVers! My wife and I have a 2010 32' Adventurer. We are pulling a 2013 4x4 Ford F150. There seems to be many tow vehicle brake systems available out there but we are confused on which one to purchase. I would also like to install it myself due to such extreme labor costs dealers want. Any advise. :anyone

You are over towing your rig. That truck is over 5Klbs and your MH can only tow 5K on a good day. Before you waste your time and money get a vehicle that is within the Tow limit of your MH.
You stated you are worried about being safe so start at the beginning and be Safe not only for yourself but for the rest of us.

[Jparker]

Thank you everyone for your information. I would especially like to thank Super gel for your input. Did I express safety in my comment? Lazy Days installed the base plate on my vehicle and said I would be fine. I need my truck as a toad, not a Smart Car. I have pulled it without a braking system and have had no issues even on a bad day. And don't worry, I'll stay out of Oregon so you'll be safe.

[Robin_M]

Originally Posted by Jparker

Thanks, and I'm sure I am pushing it to the limit. That's why I'm looking for the best one.

John,

Edgray mentioned the systems that most consider to be the best - mainly because they are all good quality systems and all very easy and care free to use, once installed. Of course opinions will vary greatly as to which is the absolute best. Of the four he mentioned, the, US Gear "Unified Tow Brake" and the SMI "Stay-in-Play" would probably be best suited for a gas rig as the other two are intended to be used with a motorhome with air brakes.

Either of those systems would do a good job for you (on good days and bad days). And both companies offer good customer support for those who are doing self-installs. I'd look into both of these and see what you think. (See links in last paragraph.)

I've used the US Gear unit for years and was happy with it. Although on my new toad I just installed the SMI AirForceOne (I have a diesel motorhome), and I very much like that system. Their "Stay-in-Play" works much the same way, but they recommend it more for gas motorhomes. I also think it would be the easier of the two to install.

[Jparker]

Thanks Robin... that was a big help and I appreciate your advise without the sarcasm. Thanks again. I'm going to try the SMITH system. Good luck with your retirement.

[wa8yxm]

I wrote this for another thread but most of it applies here.. WIth the M&G system,,, you need to make sure it fits first.

Since many have yammered about the legal requirements all I will say there is not having a braking system may also open you to CIVIL damage if something happens. like half a million or so in liability.

On Jeeps, if motor home is a Diesel with air brakes consider M&G it is a good system and invisible to the jeep driver when not being towed.

US-Gear Unified Brake Decelarator gives MH Driver full control over jeep brakes, YOU MAY, adjust the ratio (Gain) from the MH, set or disable the jeep brakes, all with a pair of controls on the dash/collumn.

Invisible Brake,, NO HOOK UP required (except for break-away cable)

All these are invisible to the jeep driver by the way and save for the last very quick to hook up 2 cables and you are done.

Ready brake and Blue Ox Auto stop... Surge brakes. One of the simpliest systems made, and very effective also invisible to jeep driver, HOWEVER, if not used for an extended period the cables and seize up and disable it or cost you a brake job. Bit of maintance or testing needed at hook up (Seconds worth).

Box in the driver's seat systems (Even Brake, Brake Buddy), I do not recommend due to the hassle of installing them every time and storing them when driving the jeep.

[Easyrider]

I use the ReadyBrute Elite with the surge brake. I've only had it for a year so not a long history, but no problems so far. I've not seen any sign of the cable seizing up. And we don't use it after late October until late May the following year. I wonder if shooting some grease from a grease gun into both ends of the cable tubing would eliminate any chance of seizing? Is there anyone out there who has actually had the cable seize up? Has anyone tried greasing the cable as I suggested?

[motohomer]

Easyrider, I've never had cable issues. A tug before you hook up is any easy check. I greased the bars once. The newer model has a grease fitting.