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Old 12-25-2014, 09:36 PM   #15
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Used diodes in every vehicle we've towed four down with no problems. Did the install myself too.
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Old 12-26-2014, 12:35 AM   #16
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Van ha

Did not use the dolly lights and the toad lights at the same time, just used lights on toad. But see no reason why one could not wire both in parallel. (Would need to check if the RV wiring and flasher would power additional bulbs re running in parallel if you wanted to do this.)

Have not used a dolly for several years. Just put an appropriate plug on the toad front end and run 4 or 5 wires as appropriate back to the rear of the toad (I did mine underneath in plastic conduit wrap) and tapped into the tail, brake and signal lights with diodes. The diodes have 3 connections. One goes to the light and the other two are wired independently to the existing toad light circuit with the other wire going to the lead brought from the plug you put on the front of the toad. (One wire goes to a good ground anywhere on the toad, need not run it to the rear.) Of course this plug on the toad front must correspond with the appropriate pin on the RV 7 PIN plug. The reason I noted 4 or 5 wires back to the rear of your toad, it will depend if your signal lights are have integrated or independent circuits from the brake lights. Sometimes 4 to 5 or 5 to 4 wire converters need to be wired in somewhere in the circuit.

All my toads had/have 4 wire light circuits and 2 RVS had 5 wire circuits, Meaning brake and signal lights use the same bulb element for 4 wired systems ). On my Smart Car, I hooked up the License Plate light also. It was easy. In some jurisdictions it is a requirement to have the toad license plate lit. Never did it before and have never heard of anyone being cited for not having that lit up but it was easy to do.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-26-2014, 12:57 AM   #17
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You can order the diode kits from Amazon.com.

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Old 12-26-2014, 10:04 AM   #18
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2003 Honda CRV, dealer installed diodes. If I had it all over to do again I would DIY with bulb kit.

2012 Jeep Liberty, DIY light kit. Bulb location in lenses already scored at factory. Amazon.com: Blue Ox BX8869 Bulb and Socket Tail Light Wiring Kit: Automotive
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Old 12-26-2014, 02:41 PM   #19
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I used the lighting kit with the diodes that connects to the toad lights. I too did not want to start drilling holes in those expensive housings!
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Old 12-28-2014, 10:07 PM   #20
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I bought the mopar wiring harness for my 13 Jeep Wrangler. Had to take the right front fender off to install but it works really well.
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Old 12-29-2014, 05:43 AM   #21
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There are basically 3 systems.. And I will make a suggestion on one of them

1: Diode kit, Used that on my first tow, Liked it, worked well, however if a diode fails (And they do sometimes fail) it can cause problems.

2: Add-a-lamp (One company's name for it) Drill a hole in the back of the light assembly and snap in another bulb.. This is what I have now (Came with the LP-1 Lube pump) found a bad ground on the motor home it did, I fixed that)

3: light bar,, and/or magnetic or strap on tow lights, The problem with this type of set up is the wire that runs from the Motor home to the end of the towed... It usually goes against the side of the towed and can mar the finish (not a concern on my 2001). However there are two ways to get around this.

Method 1: WIRELESS tow lights, run on an internal battery off a radio on the motor home.. I do not really like these that much have seen them fail due to dead battery.

Method 2:
Run a flat 4 "Extension cord" on your towed, from grill to tail via frame rails,,, Use it to plug in the tow lights, that way it mars not the finish.
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:06 PM   #22
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I have 2 toads, a GMC pickup and a Jeep Cherokee. Both have a trailer hitch so I built a light bar by welding a piece of unistrut to a piece of 2" stock and then bolted an LED light kit I got from Harbor Freight to the bar. I ran a 4 wire from front to back on both vehicles along their frames to hook up to the MH. I made the light bar so that the wiring on it plugs into the wiring harness I installed on both vehicles. I can switch the light bar to either toad in short order and didnt have to mess with the original lights on either toad.


2001 American Eagle 40 US 8.9 ISL, towing 1999 Cherokee or 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 with Polaris RZR in the back.
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Old 01-04-2015, 02:39 AM   #23
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Can anyone recommend a video or illustrations of the diode setup. I've got a caddy Srx that I'll use as a toad so any suggestions here would be great.
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:40 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by jstdreamin View Post
Can anyone recommend a video or illustrations of the diode setup. I've got a caddy Srx that I'll use as a toad so any suggestions here would be great.
Here is a link to an eTrailer video installing a separate bulb kit in a 2011 SRX, which when possible is a better way to go than a diode kit.
Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring for Cadillac SRX 2014 - RM-155

I didn't see a video for a diode kit installation in a SRX, but here's one for a Buick Enclave that would give you the general idea of what is involved.
Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit Installation - 2012 Buick Enclave Video | etrailer.com

The advantage of using a bulb kit is it operates separately from your towed's light system, so you don't need a brake relay switch to keep your towed's brake lights from over riding the turn signal from your coach. It also does not require any cutting of the towed's factory wiring.
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Old 01-04-2015, 11:01 AM   #25
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On the Jeep Wrangler TJ we drilled the holes and installed the separate lamps. At the time, I was nervous about messing with the OEM wiring. The Jeep rear light fixtures are roomy inside and only a couple dollars on Amazon -- easy to replace if you screw up, I was thinking.

On the Jeep Cherokee TH we used the BlueOx diode kit. Kit was recommended in another forum and confirmed by the CJD salesrep (fellow RVer) where we bought it. Connections are made in the driver door transom -- no need to run wiring all the way back to the rear hatch.

In the end, both systems work reliably and as advertised. No problems with either toad, hooked-up for towing, or not. Net-net, in my situation, I chose the solution that was the least likely to leave any kind of scar in case I screwed up. And, either way, were pretty easy projects.

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Old 01-04-2015, 04:24 PM   #26
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I have the bulb and socket kit in my Hummer. I used a drill and a $3 hole saw to make the hole. It cut like butter through the plastic and had no issues. The socket snapped in and fits like an OEM bulb. Been very happy with the set up.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:50 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by waroland View Post
I used a diode block to use the existing tail lights. It was not hard for me to install.
Unless you are using a brake light relay you are covering up your signal light when the coach brakes are mashed if you are using the diodes on the toad brake lights (the toad brake lights will cover the signal lights) but if you are using the amber signal on your toad for the coach signal and brake lights you are OK, if no amber you will need to come up with something else or do without signal lights when the brake is mashed.
Toad Brake light will also cover the bulb install kit.
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:44 PM   #28
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Unless you are using a brake light relay you are covering up your signal light when the coach brakes are mashed if you are using the diodes on the toad brake lights (the toad brake lights will cover the signal lights) but if you are using the amber signal on your toad for the coach signal and brake lights you are OK, if no amber you will need to come up with something else or do without signal lights when the brake is mashed.
Toad Brake light will also cover the bulb install kit.
I am going to wire my 2007 Silverado for towing. I was sitting here thinking the same thing. The aux brake is going to activate the brake lights and kill any signal lights turned on by the coach.

What's the proper fix if you want to use diodes?
Pull the brake fuse would be the cheapest.?
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