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Old 01-06-2015, 04:46 PM   #29
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I use a load extender with strip lighting I also use the tail lights on my surburban turn and brake lights on the extender
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:35 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soneil422 View Post
I am going to wire my 2007 Silverado for towing. I was sitting here thinking the same thing. The aux brake is going to activate the brake lights and kill any signal lights turned on by the coach.

What's the proper fix if you want to use diodes?
Pull the brake fuse would be the cheapest.?
This Brake Light Relay is made to solve this problem.

I am dealing with the same problem on my 2014 F150. I think I have a resolution but have not made the change yet. It has two bulbs on each side that both perform as brake and turn signal. They have separate wiring harness going to each. I am going to unplug one bulb on each side from the truck's signals and connect the RV's to that bulb. Therefore, I hope to have a brake light from the truck on the bottom and a brake/turn signal from the RV on the other. When not being towed, I will only have the bottom bulb working for both stop and turn. Now if some computer on the truck doesn't freak out because of the looe plugs, I think I'll be OK.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:28 PM   #31
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On my Silverado, I use diodes. Because the truck has a computerized light system and it is towed with the key off and removed, brake pedal activation by my Air Force One toad brake does NOT activate the truck electrical system in any way. My former toad was a 2005 Chevy Colorado and did not have the computerized light system. When the brake pedal on that vehicle was pushed, the brake lights illuminated, key on or off, even though it was towed with the key off and removed. We never had a problem with the brake lights draining the battery because we had a 10 ga battery charge line from the RV 7 pin plug to the toad battery. No relays, no special gizmo's, just a wire with a fuse at the toad end. System worked great for 75,000 miles and we have about the same tow miles on the Silverado without a problem or a dead battery.
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Old 01-07-2015, 01:06 AM   #32
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My load extender strip lighting has all three tail, brake, turn
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Old 01-07-2015, 08:53 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soneil422 View Post
I am going to wire my 2007 Silverado for towing. I was sitting here thinking the same thing. The aux brake is going to activate the brake lights and kill any signal lights turned on by the coach.

What's the proper fix if you want to use diodes?
Pull the brake fuse would be the cheapest.?
How about a switch fuse bypass here is one by Roadmaster that is priced crazy, I cant believe they would ask that much.

Roadmaster FuseMaster Fuse Bypass Switch for Towed Vehicle - 10" Harness - 20-Amp ATM Mini-Fuse Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring RM76510


I built one a few yrs ago for another toad by breaking a bad mini fuse apart and soldering wires to the spades at a total cost around of less than $10

I do run a charge line to my F150 as there is a warning that a dead battery could cause the trans to shift out of tow mode.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:04 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
This Brake Light Relay is made to solve this problem.

I am dealing with the same problem on my 2014 F150. I think I have a resolution but have not made the change yet. It has two bulbs on each side that both perform as brake and turn signal. They have separate wiring harness going to each. I am going to unplug one bulb on each side from the truck's signals and connect the RV's to that bulb. Therefore, I hope to have a brake light from the truck on the bottom and a brake/turn signal from the RV on the other. When not being towed, I will only have the bottom bulb working for both stop and turn. Now if some computer on the truck doesn't freak out because of the looe plugs, I think I'll be OK.


Scotty let us know, These things have a lot of crazy electric crap that can go crazy. My F150 is in the shop now to have BCM reset if the battery goes bead or you unhook it for any reason the BCM will reset lower and right now I dont know any other way to reset the battery control module, also when charging your truck do not hook the ground clamp from battery charger to the battery - post, clamp to a bolt on the engine that is not painted , I cant explain why but it is said that it could change the BCM back to minimum charge rate if hooked to the - battery post.
Also in for a transmission re flash to try to fix a 5 and 6 gear vibration when pulling a load like a loaded trailer.
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:59 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by walt2137 View Post
Scotty let us know, These things have a lot of crazy electric crap that can go crazy. My F150 is in the shop now to have BCM reset if the battery goes bead or you unhook it for any reason the BCM will reset lower and right now I dont know any other way to reset the battery control module, also when charging your truck do not hook the ground clamp from battery charger to the battery - post, clamp to a bolt on the engine that is not painted , I cant explain why but it is said that it could change the BCM back to minimum charge rate if hooked to the - battery post.
Also in for a transmission re flash to try to fix a 5 and 6 gear vibration when pulling a load like a loaded trailer.
Interesting. I have already connected both wires of the battery charger to the post per the installation instructions. I have yet to connect it to the RV due to these issues I have been working through. I will let you know what happens. It seems like with the key off, it would be no different than connecting a battery tender to a vehicle that is being stored long term.
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:17 PM   #36
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Well gang,
As we all can see and read, there's various ways of attacking this issue of utilizing the stock tail light bulbs for toad lights. I, and many of you have been doing it for decades without issues. To me, it's the simplest and, most NATURAL acting toad lights. You see, when one is following your toad, they EXPECT to see lighting, as they would see it when you're driving your toad.

If they see, as in adding an extra bulb, a brake light AND A TURN SIGNAL, within approximately 1" of each other, and in most cases with no separation or patrician between the two bulbs, it's not a very clear signal as to your intent on what you plan on doing, i.e. braking-turning-stopping and turning etc.

Many folks have heart attacks when you mention "tapping into" the factory wiring for toad lights. Well, that's up to them. As stated, I've done it for decades and not blown one fuse, not burned any cars the ground, my first born is still alive and more. I've only used ONE DIODE in each side to keep the motor homes signals from traveling down stream to the rest of the toads lighting system. Works every time.

Now, as for the issue of the auxiliary braking system putting the brake lights on by pushing on the toads brake arm, I have my way of tackling that too. It to me, is an extremely simple way of handling it. I simply installed a tiny two-way toggle switch in the door jamb of the toad. I then cut the output wire from the toads brake switch and, ran that wire up to the middle of the toggle.

I then ran a wire from the one side of the toggle to the front of the toad, and, through the pig tail, and, all the way to the dash of the coach, and there I installed tiny LED indicator light. Then, I ran another wire, from the other side of the toggle, back down to the cut wire on the toads brake switch.

Now, when towing the toad, the toggle is flipped to the front which, sends the brake light signal from the toads brake switch, to the front of the coach and, to the LED indicator light that, in fact, tells me the brake arm of the toad IS ACTUALLY BEING APPLIED. Then, when driving the toad, I simply flip the toggle to the other way and, now the brake signal from the toads brake switch is being sent to the toads tail lights, just like normal. Done!
Scott
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:00 PM   #37
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Remco LP-1 Lube Pump kit used to come with a Diode kit (Mine came with Add-A-Lamp) the video shows installing it.. I will describe

Identify 3 wires, you can access these at the rear or under the dash driver's side on MOST cars (not all).

Tail light, Right turn, Left turn

Cut (one at a time) these 3 wires and install connectors provided, connect to DIODE block terminals

Run wires from front connector, and connect to diode block terminals

That's all folks.

IF your vehicle has a fancy computer one-wire system for the lights, YOU CUT the wire to the socket itself, after all the fancy stuff.

That is the Remco method.

There are other kits as well.. here is the installation method for one of those.

you buy the kit specific to your car

you locate the connector under the dash (Mine on one car was in the absolute worst possible position, but that's another story) and seperate the two halves,, Plug into and onto the diode kit. Plug in the lines from the tow light connector, job done.

(0n that car they put the stupid connector INSIDE the fender area where salt spray could douse it in the winter.. Oh sure, there was a plastic shield, but it cracked and Well.. I hard wired around it).
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:14 PM   #38
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Guys Crag French and Van Williams were passing through Meridian ms and my Wife and I met them for lunch I was discussing our problem about the brake light covering up our signial light with a toad brake that mashes the brake espically on our pickups and Craig said why not use a cheap brake tail light LED system from Ebay, brilliant Craig had the answer to our problems for less than $35
I will post a link, it may say it wont work on our truck but remember we will be plugging the coach lights and they will have to be the 4 wire sys not the 5 wire sys
1x 60" Red LED Truck Tailgate Bar Strip Brake Rear Turn Signal Running Light | eBay
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:37 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
Interesting. I have already connected both wires of the battery charger to the post per the installation instructions. I have yet to connect it to the RV due to these issues I have been working through. I will let you know what happens. It seems like with the key off, it would be no different than connecting a battery tender to a vehicle that is being stored long term.
Where I got that info from is a guy that post on a F150 forum that is a Ford Tec name Makuloco2000 and he also post a lot of info on Utube on the Ford vehicles I will Past one of his post on this.

MAKULOCO2000

You are on the right track. As you can see, this is a new function and not many people are aware of the battery management system. I just reviewed the workshop manaul and there is no procedure listed for the BMS reset using the scan tool. However, in our testing we perform the following:

Perfroming a BMS reset will reset the battery SOC to a default of 85%- regardless of its true state of charge and reset the SOC drain timers. This should get you out of load shed. The following is the procedure using the Diagnostic Engineering tool.

BMS reset procedure with Ford "Diagnostic Engineering Tool":
Go to Gen Diagnostics and select Module ID to 726 (BCM)
Select Service 0X10 and extendedDiagnosticSession, and press "Send Message" button
Select Service 0X31
Check "User Defined" box, and type in "201A"
Press "Send Message" button

For all future reference, do not connect the negative charge lead to the negative battery post. Connect it to another ground attachment point on the truck. That way, the re-charge will be measured by the BMS hall sensor (very near the negative battery post) and will correctly re-adjust the battery SOC.

If the dealer plays dumb, here is the section in the workshop manual:

When charging the vehicle battery by connecting the charger to the negative battery terminal is necessary, such as when using a combination battery charger and battery tester/analyzer, like the GR 1 190 V3.0 Intelligent Diagnostic Charger, the BCM will not immediately update the battery state of charge. In this instance, after charging, you must carry out the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) Reset using the scan tool. This reset is needed for proper engine off load shedding and to prevent invoking of engine off load shedding earlier than normal.
NOTE: If the reset is not carried out, when the battery is charged by connecting the charger to the negative battery terminal, it takes approximately 8 hours for the BCM to learn the new battery state of charge. During this 8 hour period, the vehicle must be undisturbed, with no doors opened or keyless entry button presses. If the vehicle is used before the BCM is allowed to learn the new battery state of charge, engine off load shedding can still occur and a message may be displayed.
When charging the vehicle battery by connecting the charger to engine or chassis ground, the negative charger clamp must be connected to an unpainted chassis surface or a solid engine component such as a generator mount or engine lifting eye. In this instance, after charging, the BMS Reset is not required. Through this method of charging the BCM will update the battery state of charge during the charging process.
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Old 01-07-2015, 07:23 PM   #40
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When charging the vehicle battery by connecting the charger to engine or chassis ground, the negative charger clamp must be connected to an unpainted chassis surface or a solid engine component such as a generator mount or engine lifting eye. In this instance, after charging, the BMS Reset is not required. Through this method of charging the BCM will update the battery state of charge during the charging process.
Good call. That's pretty specific. To be on the safe side, there's really no reason not to ground it to the body or chassis. I would probably tap it into the chassis to make sure of a good ground. Is the BCM active when the key is off?
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:20 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigman1 View Post
On my Silverado, I use diodes. Because the truck has a computerized light system and it is towed with the key off and removed, brake pedal activation by my Air Force One toad brake does NOT activate the truck electrical system in any way. My former toad was a 2005 Chevy Colorado and did not have the computerized light system. When the brake pedal on that vehicle was pushed, the brake lights illuminated, key on or off, even though it was towed with the key off and removed. We never had a problem with the brake lights draining the battery because we had a 10 ga battery charge line from the RV 7 pin plug to the toad battery. No relays, no special gizmo's, just a wire with a fuse at the toad end. System worked great for 75,000 miles and we have about the same tow miles on the Silverado without a problem or a dead battery.
Genius!
I just went out and checked my 2007 Silverado's brake lights. They must be ran by the computer, because when the key is off, the brake lights do not work when you push the pedal! Problem solved. Now, all I need is my wiring kit and I'm in like flynn.
Thanks PigMan!
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:32 AM   #42
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Genius!
I just went out and checked my 2007 Silverado's brake lights. They must be ran by the computer, because when the key is off, the brake lights do not work when you push the pedal! Problem solved. Now, all I need is my wiring kit and I'm in like flynn.
Thanks PigMan!
Scott, there's a down side to the system too. Since the whole thing is run by computers (actually chip IC's) the old brake light switch on the brake pedal can no longer be used to send a signal to the RV when the pedal moves. On my Air Force One setup I had to add an air pressure switch to the pedal actuating cylinder so when I had brake pedal pressure I got a light on the coach dash. Had to call AF1 to get that straightened out, but they gave me a NAPA part number and it works fine.

With all these new digital control circuits and streaming multiplexed data lines, things are starting to get well past the point where a test light and a little common sense were all that was needed to keep the rig running. Things are definitely getting out of my league, RAPIDLY. LOL
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