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Old 01-08-2015, 09:46 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigman1 View Post
Scott, there's a down side to the system too. Since the whole thing is run by computers (actually chip IC's) the old brake light switch on the brake pedal can no longer be used to send a signal to the RV when the pedal moves. On my Air Force One setup I had to add an air pressure switch to the pedal actuating cylinder so when I had brake pedal pressure I got a light on the coach dash. Had to call AF1 to get that straightened out, but they gave me a NAPA part number and it works fine.

With all these new digital control circuits and streaming multiplexed data lines, things are starting to get well past the point where a test light and a little common sense were all that was needed to keep the rig running. Things are definitely getting out of my league, RAPIDLY. LOL
Why would I need to have a light in the cab? What does that serve?
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:15 AM   #44
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Scott its to let you know that the brake is working, if the toad brake lights comes on then the toad brake is pressing hard enough on the pedal to activate the brakes.
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:47 AM   #45
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Scott its to let you know that the brake is working, if the toad brake lights comes on then the toad brake is pressing hard enough on the pedal to activate the brakes.
Exactly.

Although not strictly on the topic, it's related. In pre-computer light assemblies where the brake light switch on the brake pedal directly controlled the vehicle brake lights, we used to use that same switch to tell in the coach when the toad brake actuated. The ground in that switch was used to light a tattle-tail on the coach dash when the brake pedal moved. With the computer controlled setup that can no longer be done, so the pressure switch is needed for the AF1 brake system. I don't know how other braking systems work.
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Old 01-09-2015, 10:15 PM   #46
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Thank You. Never heard of such a thing!
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:27 AM   #47
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I just installed a Hopkins toad wiring kit. Very easy install and works perfectly. No cutting into factory wiring, just plugs in to the tail light harness.

http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.co...mercury-3.html

Found it on amazon for about $50.00.
Good luck,
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:37 PM   #48
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tow lighting

I use a cargo carrier with light plus I tapped in to the parking lights of my toad when I use just my toad I plug it in to another plug and it work off that one but I pull a pin and its off
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:40 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by powerboatr View Post
Ok
I am going to start running a tow bar for the toad.
SOOOOOOOO
who taps the vehicle lights and who runs a separate light set up,
i am leaning to make a light bar that hangs off the hitch receiver and folds down to place in the tool box when not in use

I am just not happy drilling holes in my brake light lenses presently
We use the set up you are thinking about with the exception of we have a hitch spliter so there is a bike rack just above the light bar.

This was the system recommended by the shop that did our entire install. They have been in the hitch and towing business for over 40 years.

They prefer not tie into the vehicle lighting system. The tied into the trailer plug at the rear of our Ford Edge.

The system works great.
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:28 PM   #50
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I run the cargo extender so I can haul stuff on it while im towing or not I can still run it on my MH without towing my vehicle or someone can barrow it I had a accident with my suburban and wiped out the extender and total the suburban but the load extender took most of the blow with a tire that was on it
totaled but it was still driveable
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