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08-25-2014, 03:50 PM
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#1
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 54
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Toad question
We have a fleetwood storm that is rated to tow 5000 lbs. we have never towed a car behind an rv so the question is can we really tow 5000 lbs and still have enough power to drive 65 mph or should we scale back the weight and tow something lighter? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Thanks
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08-25-2014, 04:34 PM
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#2
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Junior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Roswell,New Mexico
Posts: 24
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My coach is also rated for 5000# But I didn't want to be at the top of what the rating is. I pull a Subaru Forester with a dry weight of 3500# .. I have no trouble going 70 MPH. Just not on climbing a steep hills. Did take it over the Big Horn mountains last year with no trouble.
Howard
__________________
2013 Itasca Sunstar 35F
Towed: 2015 Forester
Roswell, New Mexico
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08-25-2014, 04:39 PM
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#3
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Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kalispell, Montana
Posts: 55
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Towing recommendations have a lot more to due with the strength of the frame than the power to pull any given toad. Remember, these are recommendations that are from the legal department as well as engineering department. Just my opinion, the engine size and the torque gets you over the mountains.
Tim Brunkow
2003 Monaco Executive 40PBT
2006 Jeep Rubicon LJ Toad.
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08-25-2014, 04:50 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil14
We have a fleetwood storm that is rated to tow 5000 lbs. we have never towed a car behind an rv so the question is can we really tow 5000 lbs and still have enough power to drive 65 mph or should we scale back the weight and tow something lighter? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Thanks
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Phil14
If as you say, the coach is "rated to tow 5000 lbs" it can tow 5000 lbs.
If you want to tow less tow less, (I happen to tow a 2900 lb Saturn ION).
Mel
'96 Safari
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08-25-2014, 05:09 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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No, you have a HITCH that is rated to 5000 pounds. Your actual tow rating is the lesser of 5,000 pounds and the combined gross vehicle weight rating of your motor home LESS the actuall gross weight of the Motorhome itself.
Example: My RV has a max GCVW of 26,000 actuall weight (GVW) of 22,000, Thus my tow rating is the lesser of 5000 pounds (Hitch rating same as yours) and 4000 pounds (Difference between those two numbers) or 4000 pounds, or a 1992 Chevy Lumina APV
NOTE: use of a drop hitch, or hitch extension reduces that 5K big time. (Has very little effect on the 4K figure, perhaps 25 to 50 pounds (Weight of adapter)
__________________
Home is where I park it!
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08-25-2014, 05:44 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,728
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wa8yxm is correct that the actual available tow weight is the gross weight rating less the actual gross weight of your motorhome, including fuel, clothes, food, tools, people, and anything else you take with you. It's best to get your motorhome weighed on a scale fully loaded and ready to go in order to get an accurate idea of just how much your motorhome weighs and how much room you have left for towing. That being said your motorhome's hitch is probably rated for 5000lbs and you can probably assume that's the Maximum weight you'd want to try to pull on a regular basis with your motorhome. Anything you can do to lessen the load for your motorhome will help with it's performance and mileage. When you start towing a car with your motorhome you will have to go through an adjustment with your driving habits. Your motorhome will not be able to pass slower vehicles like you are no doubt used to without towing a car. When towing a car we only pass if there is a passing lane unless there is a very long stretch of clear oncoming lane to use (and I mean a VERY LONG CLEAR ONCOMING LANE) which there hardly ever is, as when you put your foot to the floor on the gas pedal you'll hear the engine making a lot more noise but notice the speedometer isn't really doing much. At highway speeds your rig will maintain speeds ok going up hills with an extra down shift or 2 but gaining speed is a whole different animal while towing. That's why we spent time thinking about what kind of vehicle we really wanted to tow behind our motorhome. Weight, 4 doors, and room for 4 people were the most important determining factors for us. We're happy with our choice and I know there are many other choices that would serve you just as well.
__________________
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
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08-25-2014, 05:49 PM
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#7
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 54
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Great Info.. Thanks everyone. Before you decided to tow did anyone rent a car once you reached your destination? If so, how did that work out for you? Still trying to decide if buying another car and setting it up for towing is worth the expense.. We are not full timers and will only be taking one or two long trips per year.
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08-25-2014, 06:44 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver Island, BC
Posts: 854
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IMHO, 1 or 2 trips per year is a lot of taxis or car rentals vs purchasing a vehicle and at least $1,500 for tow bar, lights etc. Get a small electric bike for short emergency beer or milk runs.
__________________
Brian & Nicola
2013 Discovery 40E "DISCO"
TOAD 2014 Wrangler
Xeena(German Shepard)
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