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Old 01-25-2002, 05:52 AM   #1
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I know there is a gcvw rating on motorhomes but I want some imput why I can or cannot tow a 7,000# toad behind a 34' diesel pusher as long as I have brakes on the toad, with a tow bar there is no tongue weight like a trailer. the frame seems strong enough to handle it. I have an exhaust brake also. I would like to drag my truck as I could load my boat on top and boat motor and gear in bed of truck. Any insite would be appreciated.

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Old 01-25-2002, 05:52 AM   #2
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I know there is a gcvw rating on motorhomes but I want some imput why I can or cannot tow a 7,000# toad behind a 34' diesel pusher as long as I have brakes on the toad, with a tow bar there is no tongue weight like a trailer. the frame seems strong enough to handle it. I have an exhaust brake also. I would like to drag my truck as I could load my boat on top and boat motor and gear in bed of truck. Any insite would be appreciated.

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Old 01-25-2002, 06:17 AM   #3
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First thing you eed to do is check with Safari and see if the frame is rated to tow 7000#. Next is the hitch a 10,000# hitch. Get the coach weighed and see if you will be under the GCWR.

Now you have to find a tow bar that is rated for over 7000# capacity.

make sure that you have dinghy brakes and a break away device and that they work.

Good luck....

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Old 01-25-2002, 06:31 AM   #4
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I don't think you would have a problem especially with a DP motorhome , an what you said you were going to do to the toad but take TXiceman advice an then proceed.
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Old 01-25-2002, 09:24 AM   #5
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Why does everyone seem to think that because a rig is a diesel pusher, it can do anything? Yeah, a diesel has good torque and that's handy for moving some extra load around, but that doesn't make it safe or reasonable to do so.

The GCWR is established based on a number of considerations, not the least of which is the capability of the transmission, rear end, universal joints, and brakes. Not in the GCWR but just as important is the hitch itself and the method of attaching it to the frame. A 500 HP, 1750 ft-lb diesel doesn't do much good if the hitch breaks off the frame on a winding road!

Many diesel rigs are indeed built on very robust chassis and drive trains and maybe do meet all the requirements for towing 7000# or more. But it is also true that the smaller, lighter, low end diesel chassis now being offered to compete near the high end gas rig range do not necessarily have any excess capacity and it is a mistake to think that merely being diesel makes them omnipotent. The weight ratings are there for a reason - forget the engine technology and do the arithmetic!

GARY W: Forgive me for dumping on you, but I've encountered the "but it's a DP!" argument several times in the past week and to me it is scary. Please pay attention to TXiceman's advice, even if you're ticked at me.

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Old 01-25-2002, 12:57 PM   #6
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Wolfman !!

What TXiceman & Gary B said ..... gospel! Amen and Amen. 7000lbs is a mighty toad beware it doesn't pop your ribbets!

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Old 01-25-2002, 01:38 PM   #7
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So does this rule out my idea of towing a F-150 4wheel drive V-6 behind my P-30 454 Barth. I thought that 5K MAX rating for the Engine, Transmission,chassis,towbar etc, etc. Was just kind of a guide line.

Well, I am in the midst of a big time weight loss program, so I may be able to fit into this Saturn SC2 a little easier....

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Old 01-25-2002, 02:09 PM   #8
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Dave, Your heading "He ain't heavy, he's my toad" has me ROFLMAO. Good one.
The world needs more humor.
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Old 01-25-2002, 05:56 PM   #9
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I know it will probably be over the rating for overall weight but when I tow my s10 blazer I cannot even tell it is there. and I have no brakes on it yet. My plan is to buy a roadmaster tow bar that is made in Portland Oregon I asked the manufacture rep at the redmond rondevue fmca national rally at the booth and he said as far as the tow bar it would work fine and that was the one that stays on the motorhome and I can buy brackets for both my truck and blazer, that way I can move the brake buddy back and forth. when we go camping we can take the truck and the boat, when we go cruising we can take the blazer.this year we just took the 12' boat on a trailer and it was a pain to launch at the ramp with the motorhome. the exhaust was underwater when backing down the ramp.

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Old 01-25-2002, 06:15 PM   #10
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By the way thanks for all the posts they will all be considered. Gary B. The only reason I mentioned the diesel pusher was the suspension on my rig is heavier duty by far than the p-30 chassis My old motorhome had.(84 Itasca sun runner) the 454 was leaking oil at the rear main seal and using a quart of oil at 500 miles on the old 454 at barely 50,000 miles, It got 6 mpg and went 6-700 miles on 100 gallons of gas and my Safari gets 10 to 12 mpg and from 1000 to 1200 miles on 100 gallons of fuel. I am a retired truck driver and feel more at home with a diesel. even though they are not the same. I really enjoy all the posts on this forum and have learned a lot.

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Old 01-26-2002, 05:06 PM   #11
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Your Safari might indeed be strong enough to do the job, Gary. The Magnum chassis is an excellent one. Roadmaster (and BlueOx and Demco) make 8000# tow bars. And if the receiver on your rig is rated for 5K, you can get a bigger one to replace it and get a competent shop to reinforce the frame and weld it in. Heck, Safari might even approve the existing frame for mounting a 10K hitch - their larger models have them.

Start with the basics. If GCWR - GVWR is around 7000# or more, it is worth doing the investigation to see if the rest can be worked out. But if it is substantially under 7000# then I wouldn't bother going any further, cause it ain't gonna work anyway.

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Old 01-30-2002, 12:50 AM   #12
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I would be careful about this. You can weld on a 10k hitch platform and you may have have the engine and brakes to do it, but be aware that the rear of a DP motorhome is essentially the engine cradle for the chassis. You don't want to carelessly weld on the frame and potentially create crystalization of the metal that would weaken it--and have your heavy and expensive diesel engine falling on the ground! I would recommend checking with the chassis manufacturer as well as a competent hitch shop as to changing the hitch if need be. (I have a DP motorhome with a C8.3 Cummins, and had the hitch changed from the stock 4000# one that is rated for 5k weight-carrying and 10k weight-distributing by my local--and *very* competent--hitch shop; but I did this after consulting with Spartan. I can now tow either my 5000# Durango or my 7000# Jeep-on-a-trailer without worring about the hitch. *However*, even with upgrading the engine output, I still notice the effects of the added weight on the performance !)

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Old 03-13-2005, 05:20 PM   #13
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My Mandalay has a tow rated of 10,000 lbs. My Ford F150 Lariat 4X4 GW 7000 lbs. I am planning on getting a flat trailer to tow it on as it can not be towed with wheels down. Am I crazy?
I really would like to keep it as it is 6 months old and I would like to have a 4X4 for exploring areas. It is also one of the few vehicles that has enough leg room for me.
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Old 03-13-2005, 06:05 PM   #14
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I gather your F150 4x4 does NOT have the manual transfer case? The manual transfer case 4x4 is towable.

If your Mandalay indeed has hitch and GCWR enough to tow 10,000 lb, you should be well within its capabilities. It's not difficult to prove it out - just get the motorhome weighed, subtract actual weight from GCWR and see what's left. Then verify the hitch capacity as well.

Your not crazy, but I think you will soon tire of futzing around with the trailer. Maybe trade the F150 for another one that is towable?
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