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Old 05-07-2013, 11:10 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by chboone View Post
This is good to know. If I end up getting the dolly I can order this kit.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:00 PM   #58
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Found out our MH has a tow capacity of 3500#. Since my Fusion alone weighs more, I'm now at a loss as to what to do. In order to use a dolly, we would need something under 3000#, so now I'm wondering if going forward with a four-down toad its the way to go...
We need something with four doors to fit a car seat and four adults... The search begins...
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:02 PM   #59
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this is something I have been considering a lot also, a Blue Ox type system or dolly. I read somewhere that you can not back up with either of these set ups, which seems odd to me. Is this a true fact and if so what if a car breaks down in front of you at lights would you have to unstrap the vehicle from the dolly to move back? Puzzles me.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:12 PM   #60
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this is something I have been considering a lot also, a Blue Ox type system or dolly. I read somewhere that you can not back up with either of these set ups, which seems odd to me. Is this a true fact and if so what if a car breaks down in front of you at lights would you have to unstrap the vehicle from the dolly to move back? Puzzles me.
I've heard and read the same. I'm not sure, but it could the dolly is a pain and they pivot point when turning. As for a car, you would think it would be ok.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:28 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by richardfreed View Post
this is something I have been considering a lot also, a Blue Ox type system or dolly. I read somewhere that you can not back up with either of these set ups, which seems odd to me. Is this a true fact and if so what if a car breaks down in front of you at lights would you have to unstrap the vehicle from the dolly to move back? Puzzles me.
You -CAN- back-up for a distance equal to your ability to keep the flat toad or toad and dolly "in-line". But the dual pivot points (front of the towbar and the toad's front wheels / or the front of the dolly tongue and toad to dolly connection) make this VERY hard to do it more than a short distance. The set-up just wants to jack-knife.

One time, I got stuck in a truck stop gas station where I thought I could make a turn away from the pumps - until a Box-Van blocked my exit by parking across a few car spots, then the driver disappeared into the mini-mart/diner complex. After waiting a LONG TIME, I gave up and was able to back-up about 50-60 Feet with the toad loaded, but it was an adventure.

Safe travels to all
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:06 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
You -CAN- back-up for a distance equal to your ability to keep the flat toad or toad and dolly "in-line". But the dual pivot points (front of the towbar and the toad's front wheels / or the front of the dolly tongue and toad to dolly connection) make this VERY hard to do it more than a short distance. The set-up just wants to jack-knife.

One time, I got stuck in a truck stop gas station where I thought I could make a turn away from the pumps - until a Box-Van blocked my exit by parking across a few car spots, then the driver disappeared into the mini-mart/diner complex. After waiting a LONG TIME, I gave up and was able to back-up about 50-60 Feet with the toad loaded, but it was an adventure.

Safe travels to all
Surge brakes on the dolly make it virtually impossible.
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:00 PM   #63
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There should be a lever on the surge brake master cylinder that you use to lock out the surge brake for backing. At least my Demco Kar Kaddy SS does. I have backed it up over twenty feet with the car loaded on it. I just keep an eye on it through my rear camera, does fine.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:09 PM   #64
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Surge brakes on the dolly make it virtually impossible.
That's only correct -IF- you don't have a cut-out for the brakes...like the EZE-Tow has.

And, what dolly has surge brakes (or any towable with surge brakes for that matter) but no cut-out?

Knowing is half the battle.

Safe travels to all.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:43 PM   #65
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Hi,

I would like to know where everyone is getting their answers about tow dollies. They are a few good ones out there however I like the Roadmaster 2001 tow dolly with electric brakes. It is the one I have and it has been behind my motorhome for 53K miles with no problems, in fact it has been to AK and back.

First off it has steerable wheels which mean the wheels on the dolly follow in the same track as the RV. It has a pin that you put in to disable the steering when pushing it around if you have to. I have a third wheel on mine which makes it easy to push around. I usually try to get a pull through campsite and leave dolly connected.

Second a tow dolly is faster to hookup then a tow bar and braking system. After I drive car onto dolly, I tie down tires and put on safety chain on one tire then the other. Connect the dolly wiring plug for lights and electric brakes (all one plug). Lock the door on the car and away I go.

Lastly if you get a dolly without steering wheels you may have tire problems plus the ramps may have to be stored and you might have to crawl underneath car.

There was a mention that you can only tow 3500 lbs. What kind of RV do you have? If you have that small of RV then why tow?

Good Luck

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Old 05-24-2013, 09:04 PM   #66
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...
There was a mention that you can only tow 3500 lbs. What kind of RV do you have? If you have that small of RV then why tow?
...
Can't speak for the OP, but our 32' Jayco has a 3,500 lb. tow limit. I definitely want to set up my Honda Fit either for flat towing or a dolly... More likely flat just because of weight. The Jayco definitely isn't small (or more importantly, maneuverable) enough to use in place of a car - we'd be severely limited in where we could go.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:39 PM   #67
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Hi,

I would like to know where everyone is getting their answers about tow dollies. They are a few good ones out there however I like the Roadmaster 2001 tow dolly with electric brakes. It is the one I have and it has been behind my motorhome for 53K miles with no problems, in fact it has been to AK and back.

First off it has steerable wheels which mean the wheels on the dolly follow in the same track as the RV. It has a pin that you put in to disable the steering when pushing it around if you have to. I have a third wheel on mine which makes it easy to push around. I usually try to get a pull through campsite and leave dolly connected.

Second a tow dolly is faster to hookup then a tow bar and braking system. After I drive car onto dolly, I tie down tires and put on safety chain on one tire then the other. Connect the dolly wiring plug for lights and electric brakes (all one plug). Lock the door on the car and away I go.

Lastly if you get a dolly without steering wheels you may have tire problems plus the ramps may have to be stored and you might have to crawl underneath car.

Good Luck

For one, personal experience. Mine is the same model, my experience the polar opposite.

A caution, first. Roadmaster has strict maintenance requirements dictated in the manual: in the nutshell, the dolly must be overhauled every 2,000 miles. Were I using a real computer, I'd insert a link for the manual; but, it is readily available on line.

After two blowouts with fender replacements each time, overhaul of shorted wiring, and redesign of the tie rod system, mine too seems in the groove. I'm not sure if it could go 52k miles safely, but that is always a possibility. Owners don't have to be a licensed mechanic like me to wrestle one of these things into submission, but I'd not recommend a dolly to someone not willing to invest time and energy into following the manufacturers' guidelines. No, I have no idea how often passive ownership would be successful; but, Roadmaster cautions against it (trust me, I'd be first in line for a machine that'd stay safe across the fleet for a long time, on its own).

Now that I've finally achieved normal tire wear, the next step for me is to upgrade to Load Range D tires and buy fresh nylon straps (mine are worn and weathered after some 10k miles and two years, even though I clean them and store indoors).

Anyway, congrats for making it that long without a problem. It'd sure be nice if all dollies could turn in a record like that.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:00 PM   #68
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We opt for the dolly, but it is indeed a pain. The sole advantage is that you can tote a variety of cars.

I'd never recommend a dolly for anyone who is not mechanically inclined, or unable to stoop/bend/pull. Dolly owners need to basically overhaul their dollies every two thousand miles; not terribly difficult, but it requires a shop, tools, expertise.

One caveat if you go with a dolly: some manufacturers still use Chinese-made (strike one) tires that have a C Load Rating (strike two). Two flaws, right out of the box. Even with better tires, doing regular safety checks, maintaining perfect tire pressure*, and monitoring running temperatures of the tires is critical.


*Unlike your motorhome, dolly tires are inflated to the DOT sidewall maximum pressure when tires are cool. Motorhomes are always inflated to the manufacturer's (never the interior placard) recommended value.
Overhaul your dolly every two thousand miles? General maintenance, yes like you would do on your MH but overhaul is a bit much unless you purchased some cheap Chinese junk
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:07 PM   #69
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First off it has steerable wheels which mean the wheels on the dolly follow in the same track as the RV. It has a pin that you put in to disable the steering when pushing it around if you have to. I have a third wheel on mine which makes it easy to push around. I usually try to get a pull through campsite and leave dolly connected.

Second a tow dolly is faster to hookup then a tow bar and braking system. After I drive car onto dolly, I tie down tires and put on safety chain on one tire then the other. Connect the dolly wiring plug for lights and electric brakes (all one plug). Lock the door on the car and away I go.

Lastly if you get a dolly without steering wheels you may have tire problems plus the ramps may have to be stored and you might have to crawl underneath car.

There was a mention that you can only tow 3500 lbs. What kind of RV do you have? If you have that small of RV then why tow?

Good Luck

Pretty much the same with the Demco KK-460 except it as surge brakes so no controller is needed.
We tow our Honda Odyssey which weighs about 4,400#'s and it used to be loaded with our goods for selling at cat shows.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:12 PM   #70
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Can't speak for the OP, but our 32' Jayco has a 3,500 lb. tow limit. I definitely want to set up my Honda Fit either for flat towing or a dolly... More likely flat just because of weight. The Jayco definitely isn't small (or more importantly, maneuverable) enough to use in place of a car - we'd be severely limited in where we could go.
I'd just flat tow the Fit.
I've tried towing our '05 Odyssey both flat and on a dolly. Last time I tried four down the battery went dead three times, lots more rock chips, tires worn excessively (enough that Costco wouldn't rotate them) and alignment needed. Thanks CA roads!!
The hook up time is about the same either way and it feels like the Ody on the dolly tows easier, plus the dolly tracks better.
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