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Old 05-28-2013, 03:59 PM   #71
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Overhaul every 2000 miles, that's crazy. Is that a Roadmaster CYA or just what does overhaul consist of. Repaint? Change tires? Grease bearings? Replace bearings. If it has surge brakes, replace brakes, brake cylinder etc?? Maybe just wash it would suffice.

Remind me to take Roadmaster off my search list. Thanks, but no thanks.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:31 PM   #72
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I don't disagree about Tom-NC's comments about hooking up and driving off EXCEPT FOR a couple of situations;

1) ease and quickness is directly proportional to the vehicle you are towing. I previously towed a '97 sebring convertible that had 6" of clearance at the front cowl that required the use of 4 2x6's to level the ramps and raise the vehicle so the front bumper didn't get ripped off. I also had to lay on my back to connect the safety chains to the front suspension. Neither of these situations pertain to my Saturn Vue.
2) unless you can always get a very long pull-through site, removing the dolly and wrestling it to the back of the site and out of the way takes time and effort. Finding a place to store it at your storage yard or home could be an issue as well. 4-down towing opens up the types of campsites that can be used as well as the ease of accessing them.

I could never beat the time it took to leave a campsite when I compared it to a four-down neighbor and always had to deal with moving it around in the storage yard. Don't have any of these issues with a tow bar BUT you have to take into consideration the lack flexibility of towing multiple vehicles and the added cost. $2500+ in my case.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:59 PM   #73
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Rv Neophytes,

I don't overhaul my Roadmaster Tow Dolly at all and haven't in 53K miles that I have on my present coach plus the miles I put on my previous coach which slips my mind right know.

My dolly stays outdoors in all kinds of weather with no problems. Before I use it I shoot grease in all the grease fittings including the wheel bearings. I check the lights and that the brakes work. The straps are wrapped in a plastic bag and stored in the compartments and I only had to buy new straps because my Escape has 16" tires and previous car had 14" tires. I check tire presure and run them at 35PSI. BTW the tires are trailer tires with the ST designation.

With all that said I have NOT overhauled this dolly at all.

Now for the Rver that stated you need a long pull thru that is not correct. I have fitted the tow dolly attached to the motiorhome in all pull thru sites I have been in. I unload the car after I'm in and drive it around front of RV. As for sites wher I must unhook dolly in order to back in I unload the car and unhook trailer and PUSH it around as I have a third wheel on it and put it behind the RV then I back in RV and reconnect dolly to RV again parking the car in front of RV. On some sites where there is no room behind RV I then put dolly either on drivers side of RV up front or passenger side up front. I don't have any problem parking dolly at home as Rv is alongside garage and dolly is in front of RV. Sometimes if I have to move dolly at home being I have a gravel driveway I use my lawn tractor to move it wherever I want to.

I guess that's it and again I highly recommend the Roadmaster 2001 Tow Dolly with electric brakes.

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Old 05-29-2013, 02:03 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVNeophytes2 View Post

For one, personal experience. Mine is the same model, my experience the polar opposite.

A caution, first. Roadmaster has strict maintenance requirements dictated in the manual: in the nutshell, the dolly must be overhauled every 2,000 miles. Were I using a real computer, I'd insert a link for the manual; but, it is readily available on line.


Actually, Page 12 of their manual calls for complete maintenance every THREE thousand miles...
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:37 AM   #75
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Actually, Page 12 of their manual calls for complete maintenance every THREE thousand miles...
As you can see from my signature I own a Kar Kaddy SS 460 and I just checked the maintenance instructions in my owners manual. NO overhaul wording but the recommendation to grease the king pin and wheel grease fittings every 2500 miles. As I have stated before, I perform general maintenance to include greasing like I would do on my cars and my MH. If you have an overhaul requirement at such a short interval it sounds more like a manufacturer CYI to get out of a warranty claim. What proof do you need that this overhaul,was performed? Do you take it to an authorized repair shop for this overhaul? Still sounds like a CYI on Roadmasters part!
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:25 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVNeophytes2 View Post
Actually, Page 12 of their manual calls for complete maintenance every THREE thousand miles...
The instructions on the posted manual page 12 does not say anything about "overhauling" the dolly. The instructions is for the basic preventive maintenance that should be done to any piece of equipment. Roadmaster chose 3000 miles as suggested interval. I have a Demco Kar Kaddy SS, below is what they recommend for the maintenance on page 17 of the O & M manual.
MAINTENANCE
Periodically check all bolts and nuts to insure proper tension or torque.

Grease the king pin and tie rod end grease zerks every 2500 miles.

An occasional drop of oil may be required on the moving parts of the tie down winches.

A light film of oil should periodically be applied to steering stabilizer
arm to prevent rust.

NOTE: Proper toe-in is 1/32. This is preset at the factory.
The operator should periodically have the toe-in checked and
adjusted if needed at a qualified alignment shop. Improper toein
can result in irregular tire wear.

Wheel: This tow dolly comes equipped with chrome wheels. To maintain
a high gloss to the chrome, clean and wax with a soft cloth regularly. Do not use an abrasive to clean chrome, this will cause scratches and this will lead to rust.

Chuck
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:37 AM   #77
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Thanks for posting the instructions page for Roadmaster that detail what is done at the 3000 mile interval which matches other mfg's. Personally I found that to be an excellent dolly. I later switched to Roadmaster's Falcon all terrain for towing our 2003 Chevy tracker, saving several hundred pounds of dolly weight. Our tranny runs cooler as a result. I found that Hook/unhook is faster for me on the 4 down option and have had no tire issues. I typically unhook just before entering camp and have my wife follow me in with the tracker. Speedy and nothing to have to store at camp.

The dolly was fine - just enjoy 4 down better. Both are good options with benefits for different reasons.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:25 AM   #78
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After much research, I've found several things saying our MH has a 5000# capacity. The hitch itself says 3500#. I've looked in the manufacturers site, and it says 5000# as well. I'm not sure, but I may have to upgrade the hitch.
Once I do that, I can tow my car using a dolly, or look at a toad... I'm still not sure which direction to go, although I'm leaning towards dolly. And even with a 3500# capacity, maneuvering a 33' MH through town on road trips, connecting and disconnecting at camp sites to site see, and so on is why I want to tow something.
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:49 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by chboone View Post
The instructions on the posted manual page 12 does not say anything about "overhauling" the dolly.
That was a term of my own choosing. Frankly, I cannot think of much more that could be done, beyond what Roadmaster dictates, other than sandblasting and repainting
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:36 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by ArmyVet717 View Post
After much research, I've found several things saying our MH has a 5000# capacity. The hitch itself says 3500#. I've looked in the manufacturers site, and it says 5000# as well. I'm not sure, but I may have to upgrade the hitch.
Once I do that, I can tow my car using a dolly, or look at a toad... I'm still not sure which direction to go, although I'm leaning towards dolly. And even with a 3500# capacity, maneuvering a 33' MH through town on road trips, connecting and disconnecting at camp sites to site see, and so on is why I want to tow something.

Before spending the money on a higher capacity hitch, I would check the Vehicle ID plate from the motorhome mfgt to compare GVWR with GCWR.
GVWR = Max weight that the RV can weight - fully loaded.
GCWR = Max of total mass that can be propelled by the RV including the RV, the load within the RV, and a trailer/toad.

The difference between those numbers will give you the design capacity that can be towed. (Note, that weight number can be increased if you only lightly load the RV, but it is a good starting point).

Example; My RV has a recorded GVWR of 24,000lb and a GCWR of 30,000lb...so, I know that I can tow "at least" a trailer weighing 6,000lb. -But- it came with a 5,000lb receiver hitch - therefore upgrades to the hitch are safely possible.

Best of luck!
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:48 AM   #81
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Still considering??

I"m late in joining this discussion, but if you've not yet settled the issue, here are a few more thoughts.

I went through similar considerations, and chose to tow 4 down, using NSA's Ready Brute Tow Bar. See at Readybrake RV Tow Bars and RV Surge Braking Systems for Car Towing - NSA RV Products.
I purchased it from Vince at Tow Bars Unlimited. Good service and pricing.
This tow bar includes an integrated surge brake near the motorhome's hitch receiver.
When the surge brake "compresses", it pulls on the Toads brake pedal (see ReadyBrake website for details).
I installed "everything" to our Jeep Liberty as per NSA's instructions .
It hooks up easily, tows and brakes to my satisfaction.
I can see when the surge brake applies via an LED which I installed to the Dash (running in this circuit on our 40' Coach was proabably the most time-consumming facet of the whole installation)
My thinking is that this arrangement minimizes "extra stuff" i.e. no dolly, portable brake units within the Toad, etc., and keeps us safe/legal as required in many states/provinces of North America.
Pleased so far.
Rudy
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