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Old 03-14-2018, 11:33 AM   #1
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TOAD with Smittybilt Bumper

Is there anyone towing their TOAD with a Smittybilt XRC Gen2 front bumper? What tow bar are you using?
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Old 03-14-2018, 02:50 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmbarker8 View Post
Is there anyone towing their TOAD with a Smittybilt XRC Gen2 front bumper? What tow bar are you using?
Kmbarker8,
Ours I think, is the GEN I version. It's Smittybilts "Mod" version too. Meaning you can change modular sections, the ends specifically. But, in any case, using that Smittybilt front bumper was the smartest way to go, bar none. Since the recovery eyes are there for attaching the D-rings to, then using those same recovery points for towing, is outstanding and, has worked flawlessly for over a year now and many thousand miles.

As for the Tow bar, we're using a Blue Ox Aventa II. So far, no complaints and or issues. I rebuilt that tow bar from the ground up with all new parts etc. so, it's good to go for quite some time.
Scott
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Old 03-14-2018, 07:49 PM   #3
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Installing the Gen2 tomorrow on the JKUR. I am going to make my own adapter details to use a Ready Brute tow bar. I really like the Gen2, you can attach the tow bar and the safety cables to the Dring and jack points that are built into the bumper. The UHMW pads should help with road debris that is thrown into the bumper as well.
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Old 03-14-2018, 09:05 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by manwithtools View Post
Installing the Gen2 tomorrow on the JKUR. I am going to make my own adapter details to use a Ready Brute tow bar. I really like the Gen2, you can attach the tow bar and the safety cables to the Dring and jack points that are built into the bumper. The UHMW pads should help with road debris that is thrown into the bumper as well.
manwithtools,
Just kind of a suggestion. Attaching the tow bar AND the safety cables/chains to the same point might not be a good idea. I know those D-ring attachment points are pretty strong, as many of us are using them as tow points. But, in the event, should a catastrophic failure of one of them occur, you'll lose not only the attachment to the tow bar but also to one side of your safety system. At least that's the way I'm envisioning it, based on your description of your intentions. Correct me if I'm wrong here.

As for your building your own Tow bar adapters to the D-ring mounts, well, I'm just like you in the fact that I build all my own stuff. But, when it came to those, as you see in the pics above, they are seriously extra heavy duty. For me to build something that equals those, I don't have the milling machine to replicate those. So, for a mere $213.00 (that was the cheapest price I could find on those), in two days I had them in my hot little hands. Just something to think about. I'd like to see your adapters after you're done building them.
Scott
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Old 03-15-2018, 08:29 AM   #5
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Thank you for the responses. I have decided to go with the Ready Brute Elite tow bar. Will post pics once I get it all set up on the Jeep.
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:56 PM   #6
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Can't help with the question but wanted to say hello! Keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 03-17-2018, 06:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
manwithtools,
Just kind of a suggestion. Attaching the tow bar AND the safety cables/chains to the same point might not be a good idea. I know those D-ring attachment points are pretty strong, as many of us are using them as tow points. But, in the event, should a catastrophic failure of one of them occur, you'll lose not only the attachment to the tow bar but also to one side of your safety system. At least that's the way I'm envisioning it, based on your description of your intentions. Correct me if I'm wrong here.

As for your building your own Tow bar adapters to the D-ring mounts, well, I'm just like you in the fact that I build all my own stuff. But, when it came to those, as you see in the pics above, they are seriously extra heavy duty. For me to build something that equals those, I don't have the milling machine to replicate those. So, for a mere $213.00 (that was the cheapest price I could find on those), in two days I had them in my hot little hands. Just something to think about. I'd like to see your adapters after you're done building them.
Scott
Scott,

Good points you bring up here. I've looked the bumper design over very carefully and have the opinion that the tow bar is far more likely to fail than the double welded (inside and outside the bumper) D-ring mount. I happen to have a CNC mill and will machine the adapter in much the same way as the commercially available adapters. I don't think Ready Brute offers a D-ring adapter like some others do, so I will make my own. I'll try to remember to post some pictures after I get them made in the next few weeks.
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Old 03-17-2018, 11:03 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by manwithtools View Post
Scott,

Good points you bring up here. I've looked the bumper design over very carefully and have the opinion that the tow bar is far more likely to fail than the double welded (inside and outside the bumper) D-ring mount. I happen to have a CNC mill and will machine the adapter in much the same way as the commercially available adapters. I don't think Ready Brute offers a D-ring adapter like some others do, so I will make my own. I'll try to remember to post some pictures after I get them made in the next few weeks.
Roger that Sir,
Just for info, and maybe something to think about. Here's what I did for attachment of the safety cables. I purchased some 1/2 diameter cast eyebolts and, inserted them in the cross member ends just under the bumper. You can insert the nuts and some ultra large washers from the bottom and, the wrench will fit in there too for tightening. Some balk at this idea 'cause they think the eyebolts are weak. Well, the point here is, I'm not launching this Jeep from an air plane and after a 500' drop, expecting the eyebolts to catch it and hold. This is plenty strong enough to just help control the Jeep, SINCE BOTH THE COACH AND THE JEEP WOULD BE MOVING AT THE SAME SPEED ANYWAYS, 'till things get slowed down in a "controlled" stop. Again, just some info here.

And, a 5/8" eyebolt will also work too.
Scott
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Old 03-17-2018, 02:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Roger that Sir,
Just for info, and maybe something to think about. Here's what I did for attachment of the safety cables. I purchased some 1/2 diameter cast eyebolts and, inserted them in the cross member ends just under the bumper. You can insert the nuts and some ultra large washers from the bottom and, the wrench will fit in there too for tightening. Some balk at this idea 'cause they think the eyebolts are weak. Well, the point here is, I'm not launching this Jeep from an air plane and after a 500' drop, expecting the eyebolts to catch it and hold. This is plenty strong enough to just help control the Jeep, SINCE BOTH THE COACH AND THE JEEP WOULD BE MOVING AT THE SAME SPEED ANYWAYS, 'till things get slowed down in a "controlled" stop. Again, just some info here.

And, a 5/8" eyebolt will also work too.
Scott
LOL Scott,
I'm the one that pointed out the decreased rating of the eyebolt when used in that orientation. I agree that you are probably fine with the application, I'm more suspect of that frame extension now that I spent the last two days crawling around under my JKUR. It does not look to be substantially fastened to the main frame - just a couple of weak looking welds. There is a pretty good moment on that bracket when using the lowest holes. In the OEM role that cross member has, it only supports the air dam and the sway bar disconnect if so equipped. I think one of the tow bar manufactures altered their design to not rely on that mounting location.

To your point, in an emergency situation it would probably get the toad under control before it failed. I'm no less worried about using the D-ring mount on the XRC Gen2. Pic attached if you have not seen it yet. Tow bar attaches where the shackles are obviously. Jack point opening above it is where I would fasten the safety chains.

Multiple approaches to the same problem are always good. Stimulates the thought process.

Cheers,
Dan
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Old 03-17-2018, 08:20 PM   #10
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LOL Scott,
I'm the one that pointed out the decreased rating of the eyebolt when used in that orientation. I agree that you are probably fine with the application, I'm more suspect of that frame extension now that I spent the last two days crawling around under my JKUR. It does not look to be substantially fastened to the main frame - just a couple of weak looking welds. There is a pretty good moment on that bracket when using the lowest holes. In the OEM role that cross member has, it only supports the air dam and the sway bar disconnect if so equipped. I think one of the tow bar manufactures altered their design to not rely on that mounting location.

To your point, in an emergency situation it would probably get the toad under control before it failed. I'm no less worried about using the D-ring mount on the XRC Gen2. Pic attached if you have not seen it yet. Tow bar attaches where the shackles are obviously. Jack point opening above it is where I would fasten the safety chains.

Multiple approaches to the same problem are always good. Stimulates the thought process.

Cheers,
Dan

Roger all you said Dan,
I'll more than likely use those anchors 'till I come up with or, manufacture something more substantial. I'll look into it soon. Got a few Motorhome projects lined up that take priority. Headlight falling out for one. Winnebago/Itasca "Glue joint failure".
Scott
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:04 AM   #11
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Funny you should mention headlights, I just replaced the motorhome headlights yesterday. The original ones had hazed over like headlights do, I replaced them with new versions with a blacked out housing. I think it makes it look 10 years newer.

Today's project is a gas cylinder on the entry door to replace the wonky detent arm that Monaco used on these coaches.
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Old 03-18-2018, 11:31 AM   #12
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Funny you should mention headlights, I just replaced the motorhome headlights yesterday. The original ones had hazed over like headlights do, I replaced them with new versions with a blacked out housing. I think it makes it look 10 years newer.

Today's project is a gas cylinder on the entry door to replace the wonky detent arm that Monaco used on these coaches.
I sure as heck wish I could use a gas strut on our Itasca door! The tiny, middle of the door arm is not nearly enough for door stability on these. Besides, that detent system is a joke. Mine "POPS" each and every time the door is opened to the full extension and, closed to almost fully closed. Sounds like crap.

There's a company over here that has developed a bandaid fix for it but, structurally, it sucks too. All it is, is an external, ugly looking door stop, mounted to the body, at the front of the coach. It's job is to sort of, stop the the door from going past 90 in opening. But, the leverage on that door stop is tremendous so, I'm not in favor of using it. I'd really like a gas strut.
Scott
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