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Old 05-03-2015, 09:38 PM   #29
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Also, if you check cargo control, they do have other strap hook configurations that might help with this issue.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:10 AM   #30
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FWIW - I do not recall the source but watched some fellow add a couple of pieces of 2x 8 or 10 inch wide boards ~ 2 ft long to increase the effective loading angle to let cars with long overhangs get on/off a dolly. Set the boards so they sit under the ramp as it rotates down.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:21 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
Looking back at jondrew's post on another thread, I can see part of the problem with wide tires resting on a strap hook..so I offer a suggestion...

Our Eze-Tow looks like this, with loops for the straps...so it is different:
Attachment 93328

But, the new ones have that rack set-up...this is jondrew's photo:
Attachment 93329

So, since it looks like there is no way to get that outboard strap away from the tire sidewall, why not acquire a loading eyelet/rope coupler or piece of chain to allow the strap hook to be placed where you want it...

Attachment 93330 Attachment 93331

How To: On the hook that is too tight to the tire - Slip the hook into the slot in the dolly, then secure it in the slot with the coupler/chain link from underneath. When tightening the strap, it should rest against the tire...but not get stuck/crushed under it.
I am suggesting a hoop vs. a bolt or pin to prevent the hook from being able to ever come free on it's own.

Adapt - Overcome
Thanks for those ideas. We had actually considered trying to do something like that but are waiting to get home to get this resolved. I'm concerned if the hooks like you show are rated heavy enough to maintain the tension of the straps and hold the car on. Don't want to use something and have it break. On the other side of the issue, I did not expect to have to do other fixes to get this dolly useable.

Here's a list of the additional items that I've already had to purchase to get this tow dolly operational. Granted not a large expense but something I feel I should not have to do inorder to use it

1. Bought 2 one foot sections of heavy chain to get the safety chains to be able to connect to my MH. Chains were not long enough to reach the motorhome.
2. Two heavy duty connectors for the chains.
3. Extension purchased for the wiring harness because it did not reach the motorhome.
4. Plastic tubing to cover the wires on the harness extension.
5. Heavy duty metal clips to prevent the safety chains from pulling back through the holes when securing the car to the dolly. Did not feel their recommendation of cable ties was very secure.

Hope you understand my frustration with this entire process. I expected to drive my car on the dolly, secure straps, hookup safety chains and be on my way. Didn't think I would have to make all these modifications and I still want to feel safe using this thing.

Thanks again for the suggestions. Someone had mentioned the Acme was a sponsor on this board so I'm still hoping they might chime in and offer some suggestions on this problem. There seems to be several of us with this issue.
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:07 AM   #32
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Very Unhappy Acme Tow Dolly Owner

First I would like to thank those of you who gave me suggestions on a fix for my Acme Tow Dolly.

I had made three calls to Acme Tow Dolly before I purchased the unit asking questions about the dolly and the cars that I would be towing. Acme didn't feel that I would have any problems with these cars. Since there product is not available from a local suppliers I was unable to test before I bought the unit but did try to find reviews on the unit.

Here lies the problem, Acme redesigned the tow dolly and removed the outside rings that the ramps connected to and built them into the deck. This puts the large buckle on the strap closer to the tire. Since the straps stretch the car tends to move back and crushes the outside strap buckle.
The other issue is when you release the straps from the winch the car will move back about and inch which causes the the tire to be on the buckle.
And yes the parking brake is on and the car is in park.

I bought an adjustable trailer hitch that will allow you to adjust from ten inch drop to zero. I adjusted the hitch to the recommended 14 inches from the ground. My MKX has no problem clearing the front stop but my MKZ gets caught on it. The drop down hitch has already button out twice just on local test drives.

Yes I called Acme and they want me to send pictures showing them what my issues are.

My friend and I decided to modify the deck which allows me to place the buckle about three and half inches further out on each side. This has solved one of my problems.

It is very frustrating when you spend two days trying to get two different cars to work on a dolly and my friend hooks up his motorhome in ten minutes and has not had any issues.

I am not trying to steer anyone away from Acmes tow dolly but pointing out the issues that I am experiencing with my cars and Tiffin motorhome.

I am very happy with the quality of the Acme tow dolly and its features. It just didn't work well with my two cars. It's much cheaper to tow four down then buy a car that fits my dolly.

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Old 05-04-2015, 11:25 AM   #33
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First I would like to thank those of you who gave me suggestions on a fix for my Acme Tow Dolly.

It's much cheaper to tow four down then buy a car that fits my dolly.

Thanks for the laugh!! I never read anything like that before...
...It is usually "It is much cheaper to dolly tow than to buy a car that can be towed four down."

My sympathy to those who had issues with their EZE-Tow. It is disappointing when something new does not work for us, right out of the box.

And FWIW, I towed a 4x4 with 33"x12.5" tires on my EZE-Tow (dropped the rear drive-shaft) by adding a foot of heavy chain from the rear tire strap hooks to the dolly. Worked like a charm.

Best luck and Safe travels
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Old 05-05-2015, 05:42 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
Looking back at jondrew's post on another thread, I can see part of the problem with wide tires resting on a strap hook..so I offer a suggestion...

Our Eze-Tow looks like this, with loops for the straps...so it is different:
Attachment 93328

But, the new ones have that rack set-up...this is jondrew's photo:
Attachment 93329

So, since it looks like there is no way to get that outboard strap away from the tire sidewall, why not acquire a loading eyelet/rope coupler or piece of chain to allow the strap hook to be placed where you want it...

Attachment 93330 Attachment 93331

How To: On the hook that is too tight to the tire - Slip the hook into the slot in the dolly, then secure it in the slot with the coupler/chain link from underneath. When tightening the strap, it should rest against the tire...but not get stuck/crushed under it.
I am suggesting a hoop vs. a bolt or pin to prevent the hook from being able to ever come free on it's own.

Adapt - Overcome
Thanks for the idea. Was considering getting some loops bent up from rebar and having them welded in. But I'm going to give those hooks a try

As I said before, I have no real complaints about Eze Tow. Their ads might minimize the effort required to use their dolly on some vehicles, but overall I give them high marks for a well built, low priced product. Every car Has different quirks for towing. I'd love to do 4 down, but I'm not buying a new car for something I might need 4 or 5 times a year. Not to mention the cost of the equipment and modifications needed for 4 down. Maybe when we've used up the Murano I'll consider it. Heck, it's only got 80k miles on it!
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Old 05-05-2015, 02:45 PM   #35
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Thanks for the idea. Was considering getting some loops bent up from rebar and having them welded in. But I'm going to give those hooks a try
We just found an ACE hardware kinda close to where we are staying and purchased 4 large links (the oval ones that have the piece you twist to make a solid loop) and we're hoping this solves the problem of the metal clip getting caught up under the tire. More money spent ($33) to try and make this dolly useable.
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Old 05-05-2015, 02:50 PM   #36
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We just found an ACE hardware kinda close to where we are staying and purchased 4 large links (the oval ones that have the piece you twist to make a solid loop) and we're hoping this solves the problem of the metal clip getting caught up under the tire. More money spent ($33) to try and make this dolly useable.
Let us know how it works out. Pictures would be great
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Old 05-05-2015, 03:05 PM   #37
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Let us know how it works out. Pictures would be great
No problem, I'll definitely be taking more pics once we get it loaded. Heading home on Thursday or possibly extending to Sunday but I'll post when we get home.
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Old 05-05-2015, 03:07 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by rvpusher View Post
We just found an ACE hardware kinda close to where we are staying and purchased 4 large links (the oval ones that have the piece you twist to make a solid loop) and we're hoping this solves the problem of the metal clip getting caught up under the tire. More money spent ($33) to try and make this dolly useable.
Best luck...

If I understand BIG tire clearance issue correctly, you should only need to use 2 of the links (1 per tire strap), with the other strap hook in an original dolly rack hole that is not under the tires.

Of course, using the links for all 4 hooks shouldn't be a problem since the rack holes are only "so" big, and wouldn't allow too much side-to-side movement.

Hope you share what you find.

Safe travels
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Old 05-05-2015, 08:27 PM   #39
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Best luck...

If I understand BIG tire clearance issue correctly, you should only need to use 2 of the links (1 per tire strap), with the other strap hook in an original dolly rack hole that is not under the tires.

Of course, using the links for all 4 hooks shouldn't be a problem since the rack holes are only "so" big, and wouldn't allow too much side-to-side movement.

Hope you share what you find.

Safe travels
I originally was only going to purchase 2 links but then I thought it best that the tire strap remain evenly balanced on the tire. If I didn't put an extension link on the inside strap then the strap would be crooked on the tire and I don't want any more issues. The hooks are rated for 3300 pounds so I hope they can withstand the pressure of tight straps pulling on them. Think they will be strong enough????
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:19 PM   #40
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I originally was only going to purchase 2 links but then I thought it best that the tire strap remain evenly balanced on the tire. If I didn't put an extension link on the inside strap then the strap would be crooked on the tire and I don't want any more issues. The hooks are rated for 3300 pounds so I hope they can withstand the pressure of tight straps pulling on them. Think they will be strong enough????
Without pictures I'm not sure I can visualize what you're doing. What keeps theses links from pulling through the slots?
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:22 PM   #41
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I have a piece of wood with a bungee that I jam into the space behind the surge brake at the hitch and secure with the bungee. Works great to disable the brakes so you can back it up. Also put the pin in place to lock the rack and pinion wheels and it backs up just fine.
Our KK-460 came without a spring loaded plunger unit to accomplish that. Demco sent it to me and I installed it. Since then I've never had a problem backing it up. But now we tow the Odyssey four down.
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Old 05-05-2015, 11:25 PM   #42
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Without pictures I'm not sure I can visualize what you're doing. What keeps theses links from pulling through the slots?
So, using your photo...it will look similar except...
Instead of the strap hook attached around the dolly rack...the hook will slide inside the rack slot and be held in place with the new steel link connected to the hook from underneath the rack being used as a deadbolt.
Click image for larger version

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The strap hook should self-center next to the tire side-wall (not under it) and the hook will stay in-line with the slot, because the slot is only slightly wider than the hook.

A 3,300lb rating on the link is a pull load. The shear strength of the steel would probably be 10times that number or more
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