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macnkat · 03-05-2016, 02:32 PM

I have been searching for an answer online with not much luck. Here's what I want to do...I'm towing a 2016 RAM 4X4 1500. The RAM has a tow package with a 4 pin and 7 pin connector on the rear bumper. I want to run the connecting/control wires from the MH to the truck and instead of cutting into the trucks wiring system I want to plug into the trucks existing harness at the rear bumper. My high school electrical engineering degree says that should work...I think. Then when I am not towing the truck I can unplug the harness from the trucks bumper and stash it away under the bumper. Thoughts?

Pigman1 · 03-05-2016, 03:17 PM

Although I cannot speak from experience on your RAM, I do not think your plan will work. In most modern vehicles even the lights are controlled by mini computers. This is how it works on my Silverado and did cause me some problems with lights. The 12V power for the lights are all homerun to the under hood area where the power relays and digital controller is located. Even the stoplight switch on the brake pedal is low voltage and only works to send a signal to the computer (really a chip) that then turns on your 12V lights.

Since you are going to send your RV 12V signals to the rear of the RAM anyway, you can then cut your tail light wires (tail, brake, signal) and install large diodes into the circuit at the lights. These will pass either 12V from the truck to the appropriate light when not hooked to the RV, or will send RV 12V to the light when hooked up without back feeding into RAM electrical system except at the lights.

This is the way I've wired all my toads and it works well. The diodes are about 1.5x1.5" and usually have fins to help dissipate heat. http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-48955-.../dp/B0002Q81Y4 these do not have fins but many do. In the past, when I sold or traded my toads, I just pulled the diodes out and pulled the harness to the 7 pin at the toad front.

w6pea · 03-05-2016, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pigman1

Although I cannot speak from experience on your RAM, I do not think your plan will work. In most modern vehicles even the lights are controlled by mini computers. This is how it works on my Silverado and did cause me some problems with lights. The 12V power for the lights are all homerun to the under hood area where the power relays and digital controller is located. Even the stoplight switch on the brake pedal is low voltage and only works to send a signal to the computer (really a chip) that then turns on your 12V lights.

Since you are going to send your RV 12V signals to the rear of the RAM anyway, you can then cut your tail light wires (tail, brake, signal) and install large diodes into the circuit at the lights. These will pass either 12V from the truck to the appropriate light when not hooked to the RV, or will send RV 12V to the light when hooked up without back feeding into RAM electrical system except at the lights.

This is the way I've wired all my toads and it works well. The diodes are about 1.5x1.5" and usually have fins to help dissipate heat. Robot Check these do not have fins but many do. In the past, when I sold or traded my toads, I just pulled the diodes out and pulled the harness to the 7 pin at the toad front.

If you are going to tow your Ram 1500. You don't want to mess up the computer in it. If it were my truck. I would take it to a shop that does nothing but electrical work and get it done right. If you burn it to the ground after you wire it, you have no recourse, but if say Camping World does the work they will have to fix it. I would say that Pigman1 is basically right. Good luck.
Knowing what a 2016 Ram 1500 4x4 costs the price at an Electrical Shop or Camping World is money well spent.JMHO

macnkat · 03-05-2016, 03:38 PM

Thanks Pigman1. I figured that was too easy. I have wired several toads in the past and I have the Blue Ox wiring kits with the diodes so that's the route I'll take.

Milehghcty · 03-05-2016, 03:47 PM

I had problems trying to figure out the diodes and tail lights on my towed vehicle (5-wire set up versus the normal 4-war), just couldn't get everything to work right. Perhaps gave up too quickly as built a light bar out of 1 inch angle iron (length was the width of the vehicle) and had a flat piece welded in the middle where I bolt it to my hitch. Then just run a flat 4 wire from the front to the back or the towed vehicle with plugs on both ends. Bolted lights to the bar and just plug in the MH on one end and the light bar on the other. So far has worked great and takes about 2 minutes to put on or take it off. Since you have a receiver hitch, you could just weld a 2 inch square steel to the angle iron and make it easy to take the light bar off or put on. Just another idea that won't fry your computer.

mrfix · 03-05-2016, 05:23 PM

I installed dual filament light sockets in both tailight lenses of my toad and wired them to the front using trailer wire ribbon, I leave the 4 pole plug in the grill, I made up an extension and spliced a plug in my dolly light wiring to plug it into then plug the extension into the plug in the grill of the car. This gives me turn signals, tail and brake lights on both the dolly and the car and is not in any way tied into or involving the car wiring.
Mrfix

macnkat · 03-05-2016, 06:07 PM

Thanks all. Many of the new vehicles have LED lights and that's where the rub lies. Anyway I have it installed now and all is good...I just wish I didn't have to cut up the factory harness. My Rubicon had a wiring harness that plugged in between the factory tail light sockets and made it easy, but the Jeeps have bulbs not LED lights.