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Old 03-07-2012, 04:35 PM   #15
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Did you ground the white ground wire to both frames?

1998 Pace Arrow 35 ft. F53 Ford V10 2012 Honda Civic toad
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:17 PM   #16
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At this stage forget diodes because something should be happening. You said nothing is happening. If I understand you correctly the MH socket test is good. It is very easy to get dyslexic when working with those plugs and sockets. Upside down? Looking at the front or back? etc.

If you can take your toad plug apart and plug just the connector end into the mh you can see if you are getting the test light on the correct pins. I would bet you clocked the toad connections off. You can also probe the wires on the toad with the sharp end of the test light or put a sewing pin into the wires one at a time and use that for making contact with a test light.

Once you get the right,left, and running light wires working make sure your ground is on the correct pin as well.

There are some excellent diagrams on the internet at E-trailer.com or just about anywhere. Find those and print them out.

I'm an ET with 35 yrs + and still use them.

Now something should be working on the toad. If you now need diodes then you can move on to that.

Diodes at this time will just muddy the process.

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Old 03-08-2012, 09:10 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Jhutch4044 View Post
No, I don't have diodes.
Where do they go?
Where do I get they?
If you get the proper kit, then under your dash is a connector, the "kit" will have a matching male and female connector on it, (plus a 3rd connector that goes to the tow vehicle, this will not match)

You unplug the two halves of the connector, plug into matching plug/socket on the kit, route the wire to the front, zip tie everything in palce, job done.

The 'Add-a-bulb" is attractive to many because.. It does not use vehicle lights at all, just the socket assemblies,, You drill a hole, snap in the additional bulb socket with bulb, route the wires and,, Job done.

I like the diodes myself.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:25 AM   #18
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Take a look at the Tow Daddy wire harness it's a plug and play assembly.
2007 Newmar DSDP 4023
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:39 AM   #19
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Until I find the time to wire mine permanently, I bought a magnetic tow light kit from Harbor Freight yesterday. Regularly $35, but got a coupon in the mail and it was only $10. Works for me...
John, Deb; & our dog, Benji, Forever in our hearts.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:13 PM   #20
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just finished hooking up my 96 ford explorer about 1 hour ago. Must have diodes in the wiring harness on the toad. (I also have diodes on the harness at the motorhome). I only used 1 diode per light and the running, turning and brake are all wired into the brake bulb. (no amber turning) From the harness hooked the brake and turning into the brake bulb thru the diode (as earlier described as a 2 pin into 1 pin little box...cost $18 at my rv supply store...he also showed me how to hook it up). Easy to do. However, the ground must be hooked to the chassis (took a long time to figure this out). I preferred to go with the separate bulb hookup but did not have room in the light housing. oOur experience with a jeep may be different.
2003 HR Imperial PKDD 40
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:14 PM   #21
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Thanks to everyone

Thanks to everyone for the different options. I went with the "add light socket" to the existing fixture. Worked great took about 1 1/2 hrs to complete everything. Scokets cost $3.00 each at auto parts.
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:27 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by John H... View Post
Until I find the time to wire mine permanently, I bought a magnetic tow light kit from Harbor Freight yesterday. Regularly $35, but got a coupon in the mail and it was only $10. Works for me...
I tried them on a Honda Accord. Ended up permanently scratching the paint in only about 35 miles of towing. Be careful with routing the wires, they do move in the wind and will scratch clearcoat and colorcoat.

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