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Old 03-20-2017, 07:51 AM   #29
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Easyrider, maybe I am not visualizing the braking system clearly but if my motorhome is descending a steep grade and the Jake brake is activated slowing the motorhome I would think the surge brake would activate when the dinghy then pushes against the tow bar. My Jake controls the speed of the motorhome and dinghy without any brake wear on the motorhome or dinghy. Maybe someone can clear this up in my mind.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:23 AM   #30
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Hi john,

Please add me to John's question as I've always been confused by this as well? Some good clarification would be terrific especially if said in a way that even I can understand?
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:44 AM   #31
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I think the literature on the ReadyBrute reads something to the effect that a certain amount of force is needed to activate the brakes on the toad. For example, I believe you can back up with toad attached w/o the brakes on the toad being applied.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:20 AM   #32
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Tim,
Thank you and that does add some clarity to when the surge brakes activate. So now my mind is wondering how much pressure on the tow bar is on, say level ground vs and application of the Jake brake at 40 or more mph at 1st, 2nd and 3rd setting. (that is still with no brake pressure.) I don't want my car brakes coming on unless I need significantly more braking for some reason at which time I would be using the brakes on the motorhome.
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Old 03-20-2017, 12:18 PM   #33
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John, I called ReadyBrute and some info I posted is incorrect. The tech said that the application of the MH engine brake will not engage the towed vehicle brakes. The cylinder on the readybrute has a 250 lb spring that requires the tow vehicle to compress before any braking is applied on the towed vehicle. Braking is proportional.

He also said that you will have to disconnect the cable that actuates the tow vehicle brakes if you back up, but not the tow bar.
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Old 03-20-2017, 02:07 PM   #34
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Ok, thanks. I have no facts but just a view I've had on braking systems. The 3 stage Jake is a powerful tool making mountain traveling less stressful.
Lots of opinions.
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:38 PM   #35
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The Readybrute is a surge activated braking system. It does take some weight for it to surge and activate. I am surprised at the 250 lbs spring answer because every vehicle that is towed has different weight and if it depends on a spring to activate, it will surge forward quicker with a heavier load.

I have surge brakes on the boat trailer and I know that when backing into the drive way where it is parked, I have to go up a slight incline and the brakes do go on the boat trailer.

So I guess you have to disconnect the brakes on the Readybrute ini such a situation occurs.
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Old 03-21-2017, 07:32 PM   #36
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OP here. Thanks for everyone's input. I'm leaning toward the ReadyBrute system. [...] As I understand it once installed there is nothing you have to do to the tow car to prepare it to tow except attach the tow bar and braking cable, is this correct?

I copied this from the ReadyBrute web site: when you are finished towing just fold the legs up then latch them to stow on your Motorhome receiver. Does this mean you can stow the ReadyBrute tow bar on the back of the motorhome and not have to remove it from the motorhome or stow it in the basement?
That's right, just hook up the tow bar, Ready Brake cable, and electric cable. I also recommend the ReadyStop breakaway system. Safety first!

When you are done, disconnect the above. Then the tow bar folds up and is stored off to the side. I use a locking pin to keep the tow bar from "walking" away. I believe most tow bars work this way.

After a career in IT, I appreciate that the Ready Brake is purely mechanical. No electronics to mess with. I've had my fill of that.
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:52 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnFreyja View Post
Easyrider, maybe I am not visualizing the braking system clearly but if my motorhome is descending a steep grade and the Jake brake is activated slowing the motorhome I would think the surge brake would activate when the dinghy then pushes against the tow bar. My Jake controls the speed of the motorhome and dinghy without any brake wear on the motorhome or dinghy. Maybe someone can clear this up in my mind.
Like I said in an earlier post and a couple others as well they don't come on on a downgrade with an engine brake. If you touch your foot brake to check your speed they will activate. I have towed alot of miles in the mountains and never had an issue with the towed brakes getting to warm.
There is a little light kit you can get and install on your dash that will tell you when they are activated.
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:37 AM   #38
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Don't overthink and obsess over this. If I was looking to do the same, and someday upon retirement I hope to, I would set the ReadyBrake for the lightest setting there is. The motor home braking system, including having a Jake brake, has more than enough braking power to stop the rig and toad in the most dire of braking situations.
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:58 AM   #39
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As I have said before, stopping in a straight line on dry pavement is one thing, but stopping, especially a panic stop, and keeping things under control in a curve on a wet road is completely another thing. Without proper toad brake setup, the toad wants to push the rear end of the motorhome toward the outside of the curve which can have devastating results. 2 to 3 TONS of weight pushing even a large motorhome's butt end is not something I want to experience.

See this cool web site on jackknifing.

How to Avoid Jackknifing: 10 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:21 AM   #40
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I would not say that it cannot happen but a towed is a lot less weight pushing on a heavy tow vehicle.
In the link most of these tow vehicles are out weighed by their trailer or towed. Braking in a corner is never a good thing and speed is always a factor that will make a huge difference as well.

I am a firm advocate of having towed brakes even though the brakes on my coach are seemingly adequate. I have had to make a panic stop because of some fool and if I didn't have brakes on my towed I am sure I would have hit him.
I have the ready brake and I think it works very well the way it is designed but that is just my opinion.
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:32 PM   #41
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I wish I saw this post earlier. I have the same question and I just posted the question a couple of hours ago. My concern about the Readybrake is the fact that I have vacuum assist brakes on my toad. If the Readybrake pulls on the brake pedal how does that effect the stopping power of the brakes and does it damage the toad? It would seem to me that the SMI Airforce one or the others that hook up to the compressed air on the bus would be better for the operation of the brakes.
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:07 PM   #42
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Several people have mentioned backing up with your toad attached. You never want to back up with the toad hooked up, not even a little bit. As soon as you start to back up your front wheels of the toad will not stay in line with the tow bar and you will damage the tow bar. Think about it as a triangle between the coach and toad, if those front tires don't stay going in the correct path one leg of the triangle is going to get longer or the other is going to get shorter. The problem is that those legs are locked and can't adjust in length, that is when things start bending and breaking. And no, thank goodness I have not learned this from personal experience but it does calculate in my mind. By the way, I use the Ready Brute Elite and it works great with very easy hook up. Never even know the toad is back there, except for seeing it in the camera. Your tow bar instructions will state that you should not back up, trust that.
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