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Old 10-06-2011, 10:32 AM   #15
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Location: Silver Springs, FL. USA
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Merely installing a switch inline with an external 50A fuse does not violate any warranty - federal law protects you from that nonsense. But if there is any electrical problem in that fuse box, I would remove my switch before taking it to the dealer for warranty work, cause there are bound to be questions when they see the mod.

But make sure you include a 50A fuse in the switch circuit - you don't want to go without any overload protection. If you pull the standard fuse to install your switch connection (the usual method), then you need an external fuse to replace it.

Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition
Home is in the Ocala Nat'l Forest near Ocala, FL
Summers in Black Mountain, NC
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:07 PM   #16
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 261
I have towed my Enclave(2011) for 12 months without a problem. The only fuse I pulled is the 50 amp. But again, I made sure the ignition was in the Accessory position, and I turned everything off before pulling the fuse. The thing that bothers me is.....that even though you turn everything off, with the key in the Acc. position, the circuit is still hot when you pull the fuse. This will cause some arc in the fuse panel. Don't know if GM has considered this, and the fact that it does cause a fault in the codes ocassionally. In any event, I have towed for 12 months w/o a dead battery. For what ever it's worth. Take care.

P.S....when i reinstall the fuse, I put the car in park and turn the switch to off to keep the circuit from being "Hot" when the fuse is replaced. Again, F-W-I-W.

2002 Monaco Diplomat Triple Slide PST
2011 Buick Enclave(AWD);88 Ford Must. GT(Stick)
1970 Home built 11.5 ft Slide-in Cabover
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:45 PM   #17
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towing acadia

I have the 2011 buick enclave, and I have attached wires and inline fuses on both lines, and routed the wires into the space under the dash via the upper inside of the left hand fender and around the door post to the area under the steering wheel. I then put the two switches in the kick panel over the brake and acclerator pedals. You will need heavier wire and switch for the 50amp circuit, than for the 15 amp. When I get ready to tow, I just turn off both switches, leave the shift in neutral, and the key in acc. The accessory outlet on the dash is still on to run your brake buddy, etc. when I get ready to unhook, I put in park, turn on both switches and start. I have never had a dead battery.

2010 Allegro Bus 43 QRP
11 Enclave "BUCKY" tagalong
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Old 10-08-2011, 06:38 PM   #18
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Re my info on installing remote fuse and switch to eliminate having to pull the 50a fuse. Not insulting anyones intelligence, BUT, should I ever for some reason have said 50a fuse blow, I will install new fuse one wire at a time. This will eliminate any possibility of having the two wires to fuse touch together. That would be a not good outcome with possible severe damage to wiring or injury to some poor, distracted, absent minded person rver.

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