towing a 2008 dodge dakota 4x4

[steved44]

I plan on towing our 2008 Dodge Dakota 4x4 behind our motorhome. The question I have is. You have to tow with the ignition switch in the "unlocked off" position because it has a locking steering wheel. They also say to unhook the negative post of the battery. I guess this is because in the "unlocked off" position there are still some systems activated that would run the battery down. If I disconnect the battery all the time, I'll lose the presets on my radio each time. I'm thinking of installing one of those "battery savers" on the battery, and just keep it hooked up. That way if I don't tow far enough to run the battery down to the limit of the Battery saver" it won't turn off and I'll still have my presets. If it does turn off, I'll lose the presets, but maybe most of my tows won't be long enough for that to happen. What do you guys think? Steve

Sure was easier to tow the Trailblazer...

[Gary RVRoamer]

I think it is an excellent idea and I would do the same if I had that sort of vehicle.

[Diplomat Don]

steved44....I towed a 2007 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Crew Cab for a couple of years. I ran a charge line from the coach to the toad TOAD-CHARGE Dinghy Vehicle Battery Charger/Maintainer .

Another thing to think about is that everytime you apply the brakes on the coach, the brake lights on the toad are coming on and drawing power. In a day of heavy traffic, you'll run the battery low.

I ran my own charge line with a diode and fuses at both ends on the Dodge. On my new toad, I bought the system above. The only thing I didn't like was the connectors that were supplied with the Toad Charge unit. I found some better (automotive connectors) online. PM me if you decide on the above and want the better connectors....I can direct you to the website.

[steved44]

Thanks, Don, looks like a good setup. I'm using a M&G braking system, so I don't use any power from the toad for the lights. It all comes directly from the bus, with a 4 wire connector and diode protection for the Dodge. The only power draw I'll have is whatever is powered with the switch being in the unlocked position.

[Teach]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don steved44....I towed a 2007 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Crew Cab for a couple of years. I ran a charge line from the coach to the toad TOAD-CHARGE Dinghy Vehicle Battery Charger/Maintainer . Another thing to think about is that everytime you apply the brakes on the coach, the brake lights on the toad are coming on and drawing power. In a day of heavy traffic, you'll run the battery low. I ran my own charge line with a diode and fuses at both ends on the Dodge. On my new toad, I bought the system above. The only thing I didn't like was the connectors that were supplied with the Toad Charge unit. I found some better (automotive connectors) online. PM me if you decide on the above and want the better connectors....I can direct you to the website.

I use the same system. What connectors do you use and where did you get them.

Thanks,

[num1dgh]

We have never considered a battery disconnect until we had an unusually long towing experinence (nightmarish really) of 9 hours with our Ford Edge. After finally limping into the park (we had windshield wiper failure in a crazy rainstorm in Oregon) we unhooked the toad and found the battery DEAD. I believe it was the long tow because this has never happened before, but I would hate losing my presets EVERY time we tow. THANK YOU Diplomat Don for the info on the battery charger/maintainer. We'll look into that!

[steved44]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teach I use the same system. What connectors do you use and where did you get them. Thanks,

Teach, most any RV repair place has the diodes. I actually bought them from PPL motor-homes in Houston when I first equipped the Trailblazer I had. I got the "universal lighting kit" at that time and it included 4 diodes. Depending on weather your MH has separate turn signals from the brake lights you have to wire it differently. They publish the directions on the Roadmaster web site. Steve

[Teach]

Thanks Steve, but I was referring to the replacement charge-line connectors Don mentioned in his post.