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Old 07-26-2014, 08:31 AM   #15
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Your chassis alternator will be charging your chassis battery, your house battery(s) and the charge line to the toad. At best you will get 13.2-13.7 to the toad. On my charge line to my CRV, I get a maybe 13.5 at best. That is just enough to keep the battery charged. By the way, it you are using the LSL Toad Charge, it will only charge the battery if the voltage coming into it is high enough to engage it. I took it out and replaced it with a 20 breaker that allows current to flow continually to the toad battery.
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Old 07-26-2014, 09:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFXG View Post
I am at a loss to understand why
people don't simply put a charge line in.

Because my AFO brakes don't need power, I have a fuse switch that is easy to use and have never had a dead battery? LOL

SERIOUSLY...I haven't found the need yet and currently still using a flat-4 plug. If I ever get it converted to a 6/7 round connector I will set it up as an option.
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Old 07-26-2014, 04:28 PM   #17
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Jerichorick, yes, I had the fuse disconnect switch installed and have not installed a charge line. Just got back from a 2000 mile two week trip to Yellowstone and battery in 2014 CRV (AWD and w/Nav) worked fine the whole trip.


2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE, 2014 Honda CRV with Roadmaster tow package, RVing on weekends and vacation since June 2012
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Old 07-26-2014, 04:29 PM   #18
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Oh, and for the OP, mileage did not accumulate while towing... :-)


2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE, 2014 Honda CRV with Roadmaster tow package, RVing on weekends and vacation since June 2012
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Old 07-27-2014, 07:15 AM   #19
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I don't take the fuse out. if you can remember to run the CRV 10-15 minutes when you overnight, you won't have a problem. I carry a 12 v battery booster in back of the CVR for the nights you forget to run the engine. The battery booster is also another 12 v plug that you can take with you to run 12 v or hook up an inverter and have limited 120v.
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Old 07-27-2014, 09:54 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
I was of the same opinion. I have a charge line and after about 4 hours of towing, I arrive to unhook and have a dead battery. After scratching my head and testing the charge line, finding it OK, I have come to the conclusion that on hilly roads using the Exhaust Brake, the draw from the Brake Lights and Patriot is more than the charge line can provide. I never had this problem on trips down south until now in Alaska where I am constantly slowing down for frost heaves or hills.
Going to install the fuse disconnect switch.
Thanks for your good answer to the charge line question. Time to install LED running and break lights. I plan on doing this in the near future. I don't want charging current/voltage drop in my tow harness. You need a real big wire not to have voltage loss as the battery/lights demand increases, as in your case. Reducing the draw demand on the battery makes more sense to me.

In my case, I am not using my toad break lights when the engine is doing the breaking. They only work when I use the service break. I haven't installed the light harness from etrailer yet but I believe I need a relay to operate the break lights when the jake break operates.
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:03 AM   #21
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Cry

We are planning on getting a 2015 CRV to pull. From what I gather by the posts it will not put mileage on the unit when being towed. Don't understand all the talk about a fuse or fuse cutoff switch? We now pull an Accord by just turning the ignition switch on. I think it does put miles on but we have never had the battery go dead. Usually run the car for a few minutes while sitting up at campground. We also just use the flat plug to get power to the toad.

Sake travels all
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:45 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by FLYING BUTCH View Post
We are planning on getting a 2015 CRV to pull. From what I gather by the posts it will not put mileage on the unit when being towed. Don't understand all the talk about a fuse or fuse cutoff switch? We now pull an Accord by just turning the ignition switch on. I think it does put miles on but we have never had the battery go dead. Usually run the car for a few minutes while sitting up at campground. We also just use the flat plug to get power to the toad.

Sake travels all
Down load the owners manual and look under the RV towing recommendations. And, here is a link to the CR-V owners club: Honda CR-V Owners Club - Home

I wasn't able to download the '15 manual without some hoop jumping.

This might help. On my new, 215 miles as of yesterday, 2014 CR-V I installed the fuse shutoff switch. When the ignition switch is in "I", for unlocking the steering wheel for towing, the center console info center is on. When the 7.5 A fuse is switch off this console is off and the battery drain from it is removed. Like leaving the dome light on over night, it drains your battery.

I hope this sheds some light on this topic for you.

I, personally, don't like a charging line from the coach. The tow connectors often don't always connect correctly and need some re-seating. I don't trust the reliability of the connectors. If a simple flip of a switch will preserve my toad battery, I am all for it.

Your car. Your choice of methods. You may not do anything, as some others choose to do.

Happy trails,

Rick Y
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:57 AM   #23
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Install base plate on 2014 Honda CRV

Rick did you install the base plate yourself? We just purchased 2014 CRV did install the trailer hitch waiting for the base plate to come in the next few days. Wanted to know about those yellow clips on front heard different stories on getting those removed and any help on that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:04 AM   #24
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We just started towing a new-to-us 2012 CR-V. Best tow vehicle we've had. It does not record the mileage - I checked.

I also had the shop install a fuse replacement switch when they put in our SMI Stay n Play brake system.

The fuse disconnect works great. We just towed for 1400 miles from Florida to Indiana and no battery issues at all. IMHO, much more reliable than a charging line. But that's personal
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:04 AM   #25
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Rick did you install the base plate yourself? We just purchased 2014 CRV did install the trailer hitch waiting for the base plate to come in the next few days. Wanted to know about those yellow clips on front heard different stories on getting those removed and any help on that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
JIm
Yes Jim. I did. The instructions from Blue Ox make the removal of the grill much harder than it really is. I found a PDF for installing fog lights on the CR-V that showed how to remove the grill from the front. If you PM me with a good email address for you I will send you the PDF of the instructions. The install is not that big a deal. You will need Locktight Red and a torque wrench. Once it is installed there is not easy way to remove it. I installed the SMI AF1 and will be installing the etrailer wiring harness soon.

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Old 08-01-2014, 01:20 PM   #26
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Towing equipment install update.

I just finished installing the last of the need stuff for safe towing. The etrailer wiring harness, TM783120 was not as bad as the instructions made it out to be. I was able to fish the wire through the rear bumper without removing all of the clips. The left side is encased in the bumper cover and wheel well trim, so that area had to come loose. The tail lights come out with a little tugging effort. Once the screws are out, a simple lifting of that area allows for some gentle finger prying and tugging. A clip will pop free and then the assembly can be maneuvered rearward to release a slid clip in the front of the unit. Some clips and screws need to be removed from the trim going to the front of the car. Getting the wire into the engine compartment was a bit of a challenge. A second pair of hands would help but they are not necessary. I did all of the installations alone, base plate, SMI AF1, and wiring. I did each section one at a time, rushing nothing. I worked a few hours each day and got it all done in about 6 sessions.

If I could do all of this work myself, anyone who is handy with tools and has the will can do what I did. I did my homework on all of the products i used and read the install instructions several times for clarity and understanding. I contacted the manufactures of the products I used if I had any questions or misunderstandings about the installations. SMI, Blue Ox and etrailler were all great. The only 'complaint' I have is with the cover for the etrailer wiring harness plug. I will notify them about the loose, will not stay on, fit and see what they say.

Now for testing all systems together. DW has many plants on the dash, mantle clocks and assorted lady creature comfort decorations to secure before I can even think of moving the coach forward. When this is done I'll post the news.

If anyone has any questions they can PM me or go public here. I'll be glad to help if I can.

Rick Y
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:20 PM   #27
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Toad set up

Just finished installing base plate, lights and wiring along with fuse bypass on our CRV. With that said I've got a question that someone on the board might be able to answer.

We purchased a Blue Ox Patriot 2012 brake system (not here yet) and checking for power with the fuse bypass off 12 volt plug ins are all dead. So other than running an additional power line what has anyone else done? Had hoped that the one in the console would have been live but no luck.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:34 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by jandbstip View Post
Just finished installing base plate, lights and wiring along with fuse bypass on our CRV. With that said I've got a question that someone on the board might be able to answer.

We purchased a Blue Ox Patriot 2012 brake system (not here yet) and checking for power with the fuse bypass off 12 volt plug ins are all dead. So other than running an additional power line what has anyone else done? Had hoped that the one in the console would have been live but no luck.
As you know, the fuse box is in a tough place to get to. There are several option fuse positions open IF your CR-V is not "loaded". You can make a fuse insert that will give you the power lead you need. You will have to attach a separate ground because the fuse can not be the return. Only the supply. Another-words, use a blown fuse.

Personally I did not choose this type of breaking system because of the need to store external hardware and I don't trust a radio link to break my toad. The SMI for my coach was even cheaper than the type system you are getting and there is no equipment to connect or disconnect at the drivers seat. I guess for those hooking up a toad a couple of times a year the type system you are planning to use is OK, but where I move around frequently the SMI Air Force One seemed to make more sense for me.

No mater what system you use, having fun and getting there safely is what counts. Many happy trails to you.

Rick Y
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