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Old 08-19-2014, 10:19 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
I was of the same opinion. I have a charge line and after about 4 hours of towing, I arrive to unhook and have a dead battery. After scratching my head and testing the charge line, finding it OK, I have come to the conclusion that on hilly roads using the Exhaust Brake, the draw from the Brake Lights and Patriot is more than the charge line can provide. I never had this problem on trips down south until now in Alaska where I am constantly slowing down for frost heaves or hills.
Going to install the fuse disconnect switch.
Here is an update on my dead battery dilemma.
After pulling the fuse, I still had a dead battery after 2-3 hours. Finally checked my charge line with my voltmeter (previous checks were with a test light) I come to find out the MH Chassis Battery Voltage was only 11.5 VDC. Turns out my alternator on the MH is pooched. After being plugged in to shore power overnight, the chassis battery gets fully charged. After a couple hours down the road, the voltage drops and drains the toad battery through the Charge Line.
Solution, pulled the fuse on the charge line and toad accessory fuse. Order up a new alternator at our next stop in Kamloops, BC.
Moral of the story, use a Voltmeter instead of a test light.
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:55 AM   #30
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We tow a 2011 Honda CRV EXL AWD with Nav. We had a problem with the battery going dead too. We bought a product called TOAD. (you can google it or look for Honda dead battery). It works great, it uses the MH batteries to keep the car battery charged. Also, I printed a copy of the "how to" steps from the owners manual on towing and keep it in the center console.
Don't forget to switch the headlight switch from AUTO to off and (on ours) you have to go into the clock settings to turn off the display because just turning off the radio will not turn off the display and it is enough to run the battery down.
And no, the mileage does not count off on ours while towing it. We love our Honda!! I hope it lives forever!!
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:11 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by RKNOLA View Post
We tow a 2011 Honda CRV EXL AWD with Nav. We had a problem with the battery going dead too. We bought a product called TOAD. (you can google it or look for Honda dead battery). It works great, it uses the MH batteries to keep the car battery charged. Also, I printed a copy of the "how to" steps from the owners manual on towing and keep it in the center console.
Don't forget to switch the headlight switch from AUTO to off and (on ours) you have to go into the clock settings to turn off the display because just turning off the radio will not turn off the display and it is enough to run the battery down.
And no, the mileage does not count off on ours while towing it. We love our Honda!! I hope it lives forever!!
Thanks for the info,
I have a fused charge wire that runs from the MH Chassis Battery to the toad Battery using the 7 Pin Connector. Works great without pulling fuses and is very inexpensive to install. Prior to the alternator problem, we never had a dead battery. But when the MH battery voltage is lower than the toad, the toad battery goes dead.
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:21 AM   #32
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Newbe here, we bought a new to us 2001 Winnebago Journey, and a brand new 2014 Honda CR-V AWD, no Navi. We had the Road master tow bar and I got the Roadmaster Invisabreak installed too. I like the idea of never having to think about auxiliary breaking. When the RV and Toad are connected, we have auxiliary breaking. We headed out on our first big RV trip, 4045 miles by the end, and sure enough on day 3, the battery was dead. Got a jump from a friendly camper via a boost. I never heard of such a thing, but I have one now. At every rest break we ran the CR-V and ran the CR-V at night and in the morning, the car started every time. I will have the disconnect switch installed next week. I would recommend a CR-V as a Toad, and the odometer does not register towed miles. Our next big trip will be in November. Happy Trails.
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:16 PM   #33
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The reason mileage does not accumulate is because the odometer and speedo are driven from the transmission!.....good luck!
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:49 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by hoboz2 View Post
Newbe here, we bought a new to us 2001 Winnebago Journey, and a brand new 2014 Honda CR-V AWD, no Navi. We had the Road master tow bar and I got the Roadmaster Invisabreak installed too. I like the idea of never having to think about auxiliary breaking. When the RV and Toad are connected, we have auxiliary breaking. We headed out on our first big RV trip, 4045 miles by the end, and sure enough on day 3, the battery was dead. Got a jump from a friendly camper via a boost. I never heard of such a thing, but I have one now. At every rest break we ran the CR-V and ran the CR-V at night and in the morning, the car started every time. I will have the disconnect switch installed next week. I would recommend a CR-V as a Toad, and the odometer does not register towed miles. Our next big trip will be in November. Happy Trails.
You probably have a charge line at the 7 pin connector on the back of your RV. We did on our 2004 Winnebago Vectra and also on the present 2013 Thor Tuscany. I had to rewire the 7 pin to 6 pin connector cable to get the charge line to the 6 pin interface on the car. I added a Toad_Charge instead of diodes and fuses or breakers. I did change the 20 amp fuse on the RVs charge line to a 20 amp self healing breaker.

While I was at it I wired a line from the Toad brake light switch through the 6 to 7 pin connector to the dash of the RV using the electric brake wire that is already on the 7 pin connector that goes to the dash area. This way I can see when the toad brakes are applied. My 2012 CRV had Navi and WILL run the battery down without the toad charge line. I didn't want to screw around with fuse disconnect switches. So when I am hooked up all the lights, toad charge and toad brake indications are hooked up.

I recently got rid of my brake buddy type box and changed to a Ready Brake Brute tow bar and now see that I have toad braking without a panic stop situation like with the brake buddy box.

I've towed a 2008 smart car, 2010 and 2012 CRVs and you can't beat the CRV for a tow vehicle.
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:56 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Bago40 View Post
You probably have a charge line at the 7 pin connector on the back of your RV. We did on our 2004 Winnebago Vectra and also on the present 2013 Thor Tuscany. I had to rewire the 7 pin to 6 pin connector cable to get the charge line to the 6 pin interface on the car. I added a Toad_Charge instead of diodes and fuses or breakers. I did change the 20 amp fuse on the RVs charge line to a 20 amp self healing breaker.

While I was at it I wired a line from the Toad brake light switch through the 6 to 7 pin connector to the dash of the RV using the electric brake wire that is already on the 7 pin connector that goes to the dash area. This way I can see when the toad brakes are applied. My 2012 CRV had Navi and WILL run the battery down without the toad charge line. I didn't want to screw around with fuse disconnect switches. So when I am hooked up all the lights, toad charge and toad brake indications are hooked up.

I recently got rid of my brake buddy type box and changed to a Ready Brake Brute tow bar and now see that I have toad braking without a panic stop situation like with the brake buddy box.

I've towed a 2008 smart car, 2010 and 2012 CRVs and you can't beat the CRV for a tow vehicle.
I agree, this is the least expensive and most effective method. A good alternator on the MH is key though. LOL.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:55 PM   #36
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Old 08-21-2014, 04:53 PM   #37
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Ready to tow

This is a wrap-up of my efforts to tow 4 down. We bought the coach about 14 months ago and the 2014 CR-V last month. A early add-on was the Tru-Center steering control. Great addition.

For the CR-V toad I have installed a Air Force 1 breaking system, a self built fuse disconnect switch (no Navi system), a Blue Ox base plate,
Blue Ox Alpha tow bar and, today, a Blue Ox Karguard II. Here are some pictures of the install. These may answer many questions I have seen asked about this type of product. (At this writing I have not fully tested any of the tow equipment.)
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Old 08-23-2014, 08:16 PM   #38
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Update on my last post. I pulled the coach forward today and did a full test of the new tow systems. I found out that I am missing my breakaway switch tether cable, and that I need to learn the correct order of hooking things up. With these lessons learned, all went fantastic! It is strange to see the break peddle in the CR-V moving as DW applied the coach break. But, all systems worked as the manufactures designed them too.

While the coach was clear of obstacles, we took advantage of the open space and washed the crud off the patio awning. Just remembered to door awning. Oh well. There is always tomorrow. Ain't it great to be retired?!!!
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:51 PM   #39
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Old 09-30-2014, 05:22 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by jandbstip View Post
Just finished installing base plate, lights and wiring along with fuse bypass on our CRV. With that said I've got a question that someone on the board might be able to answer.



We purchased a Blue Ox Patriot 2012 brake system (not here yet) and checking for power with the fuse bypass off 12 volt plug ins are all dead. So other than running an additional power line what has anyone else done? Had hoped that the one in the console would have been live but no luck.

I just had our 2014 CRV rigged up for towing at Camping World. Used all blue ox hardware. They added a separate power receptacle under the dash to the left for the brake unit. I think I will add the bypass switch too.


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Old 10-01-2014, 09:56 AM   #41
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Fuse bypass and extra power receptacle are Not Necessary if you have a simple charge line from the MH to the Toad as stated in previous posts. You are being sold extras because the installer doesn't know what he's doing.
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Old 10-01-2014, 10:36 AM   #42
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Fuse bypass and extra power receptacle are Not Necessary if you have a simple charge line from the MH to the Toad as stated in previous posts. You are being sold extras because the installer doesn't know what he's doing.
I'm gonna disagree just a tad with this. My brake system doesn't require hardly any power to run. The only power is a very small current to run the break aways switch function of my AFO. I opted for the fuse bypass so that I didn't have to use a charge line. This can be a good option with flat 4 connectors. I've not had any problems with that set up nor do I introduce the possibility (VERY MINOR if done correctly) of a power line causing unintended consequences.

YMMV
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