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Old 08-21-2016, 03:37 PM   #1
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Towing a 2017 Sierra 1500 4x4

Howdy all! First DP coming in a couple of weeks and trying to figure out how to set my truck up for towing. Disconnect the negative battery cable (Think I can wire up a remote solenoid for that,) but my question is..... What towing setup? I have been researching all day, online and on the forum, lots to think about. I would prefer a built in one because I will not be switching towing vehicles. It's the first time I've ever set a toad. They all seem similar (sorta) and all about priced the same. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Vehicle is around 4800 lbs and coach has a 15,000 tow capacity. Cheers!
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Old 08-21-2016, 03:53 PM   #2
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I assume you've read in the owner's manual that the vehicle can be towed 4 down. Next, go to the Blue Ox site and look up a base plate and tow bar that can handle 5,000 pounds. eTrailer is another good source, Roadmaster is another.

Since you plan to disconnect the battery, I'd suggest a surge brake built into the tow bar or receiver extension. The Ready Brake is a good solution, no boxes or electricity needed from the cab.
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Old 08-21-2016, 08:02 PM   #3
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I towed a 2015 GMC 1500 crewcab. I used a Blueox Aventa tow bar as well as thier baseplate. I used M&G brake system. All of this was easy to setup and use.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:11 AM   #4
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We tow a 2011 Sierra Crew with Blue OX base plate and Aventa 10,000 lb tow bar. Ours weights around 5,500 with fuel and stuff inside; do not try a 5,000 lb tow bar. Also check the base plate regularly as our nuts loosened even though they were "Locitied"
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:50 AM   #5
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Air Force One by SMI will be the best brake you can buy, IMO.

It will stop that GMC like a champ and will work even thought the battery is disconnected.

Happy trails!
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captned View Post
Howdy all! First DP coming in a couple of weeks and trying to figure out how to set my truck up for towing. Disconnect the negative battery cable (Think I can wire up a remote solenoid for that,) but my question is..... What towing setup? I have been researching all day, online and on the forum, lots to think about. I would prefer a built in one because I will not be switching towing vehicles. It's the first time I've ever set a toad. They all seem similar (sorta) and all about priced the same. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Vehicle is around 4800 lbs and coach has a 15,000 tow capacity. Cheers!
Captned,
Congrats on the DP purchase. We've been doing EXACTLY what you're asking about. Only difference, ours is an '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4. On our year, we don't have to disconnect any battery cables (yahoo). Now, as for base plate(s). Yes, there are two, that will be used for your truck. It's not like a normal base plate that is one structure, from one side of the car to the other.

There are two, independent base plates for right and left sides of the nose cones of the frame. I don't know just how much the trucks frames have changed since '11 but, I'm going to assume, not much. I did the install of ours, back a few years ago and, it was not very hard, if I recall. They (the base plates, may have changed a tad but, don't know. You'll figure it out.

As for brakes, since you're going with a D/P, I'd definitely look into the M & G braking system. It's pretty darn easy to install and, the only thing between the coach and truck is a short, curly que air hose. There is absolutely NOTHING on the inside of the truck. You don't have to hook anything up to any brake pedals. You just hook up the air hose from the coach to the truck, DONE.

Now, I also did the lights. I've wired all of our toads, the same exact way, for decades without any issues what so ever. And that way is, to tie into the factory wiring, at the left rear tail light area. No, the truck or any other vehicle we've towed has not gone up in flames like some would have you think, because I wired them like that. And, the best part is, the trucks tail lights act the same exact way when towing it, as they do when we're driving it. That means full brightness of the bulbs due to the factory placement of them in the housing.

Now, it is possible that the newer trucks, as in maybe '15 or '16 may be using what's called CAN-BUSS wiring. If so, then tying into the factory wiring, is most likely OUT! So, you'd have to come up with plan B. There are now companies that supply sort of, Plug-and-play lighting systems. But, I've also read that there has been some issues with those so, take care on how you do it.

Our trucks front end/grill area is different than yours but, here's a pic or two of how ours looks, where the pig tail plug is and, the M & G Air system plug-in.
Scott

P.S. Do yourself a favor. Before actually committing any given tow bar, at any give rate capacity, go and weigh THAT PARTICULAR TRUCK that you are going to tow. I say that because, the Dinghy Towing Guides, placed our truck at 4875 lbs. WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!! With a full tank, it sits on the scales at 5,300 lbs. So, that would be over a 5,000 lb. capacity tow bar. Not to mention, whether 4800 or 5300, they both go WAAAAAAY OVER that when you're trying to stop them so, take all that into consideration before making decisions.




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Old 08-22-2016, 01:09 PM   #7
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WOW! Thank y'all so much for the great ideas! Turns out the coach arrived at the dealer yesterday! (Tampa, FL... So much for keeping me informed! lol!) The research continues, And thank you Fire Up for the long informative post. Anymore suggestions or comments are truly welcomed, because my time line has just moved up! Cheers!
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Old 08-22-2016, 01:25 PM   #8
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why not just let the rv dealer get everything hooked up and working, when you pick up the MH? Might cost more, but would know it worked before you headed out. Good Luck Dave
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