Community Forums

cwk · 02-20-2017, 03:37 PM

The answer might be obvious, but I am not quite sure. So, I am asking opinions from those much more experienced than me on this issue.

I have an enclosed 7x16 trailer, dual axle, that has a GVWR of 7000# according to the manufacturer's plate on the trailer. Each axle is rated for 3500#. In my search for a coach I am noticing that many of the older DP's (300hp, 330hp) are rated for a 5000# towing capacity. I know that I cannot/should not tow a full 7000# with this configuration.

However, the 7000# is a gross rating. The trailer weight is about 2260#. The trailer plate also says not to load over 4740# of cargo.

If I only load up to a maximum of 2740# of cargo, I would stay under the 5000# limit of the coach. I would be subjecting myself to spot inspections by various DOT agencies, etc. And, that is fine. I can self-police and weigh at a local CAT scale to be sure the trailer is under 5000#.

Is this still a legal configuration? The trailer would be under its maximum load by 2000#. I could upgrade the ball on the coach to a heavier duty (higher rating) as an extra pre-caution. I would probably need to change it anyway, as the trailer has a 2 5/16" hitch.

I already have this 7x16 trailer and really don't want to buy another trailer that is smaller for the few times that I might need to tow an enclosed trailer with a motorhome. BTW, my Jeep Grand Cherokee, with the factory tow package, can handle the 7000# trailer. I do use this combination a lot, so the 7x16 trailer is a keeper.

BTW, the 7x16 does have electric trailer brakes. The controller is a wireless system (Tekonsha 90250 Prodigy RF Electronic Brake Control). All I need to do to hook it up to a motorhome (or any other tow vehicle) is plug the control into a 12VDC (lighter) outlet at the driver's location, plug the trailer connection into the coach, then adjust the brakes using the hand-held control while taking a short test-drive. The controller wirelessly talks to the control box mounted on the trailer during the setup. For normal braking operation, the control box senses g-forces and applies the brakes automatically. Even if the hand-held control is unplugged, the brake system still works fine. One can also apply the brakes with the hand-held control. That does require that the hand-held control be plugged into 12VDC power.

I know, the brake controller is a bit off-topic on my own post. But, I thought it was worth sharing.

So... Any thoughts on if I can tow the 7000# trailer, loaded to keep the gross weight under 5000#, with a 5000# rated tow vehicle? What other things should concern me about this that I don't know to ask?

FIRE UP · 02-20-2017, 05:36 PM

Charlie,
You've obviously done most of your homework on this. The real and simple short answer to your question is, just because your trailer is rated for 7K lbs, doesn't mean your towing 7K lbs. Like you've stated, it's the max your trailer is rated to be loaded to, including its own weight. Our coach might be in the "older" diesels that you're referring to. It's an Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT 330HP. The coach and hitch is rated for 10,000 lbs.

The "spot inspections" that you may be referring to, well, I guess they happen but, in the 30-35 years we've been RVing, towing, traveling and more, we've never been inspected, anywhere, at any border crossing, (state to state, not U.S. to Mexico or Canada) or any other place.

We had the same exact enclosed trailer with the same ratings when I retired. All we ever put in it was a 900 lb. 2002 Honda GL 1800 Goldwing and a small trailer for the bike to pull. We towed it with our previous coach, a '99 Fleetwood Bounder 34V with the F-53 chassis and the 275HP V-10. It worked really slick. I'm almost positive that, that Bounder was rated for 5K in towing. It handled that trailer and bike with ease.
Scott

computerguy · 02-21-2017, 07:25 AM

Sounds ok to what I know but am no expert in state DOT regulations.
Something also to be aware of is the GVWR and GCWR of the tow vehicle. I have seen (and have) a Bounder with a 5k hitch but if I load my Bounder up to it's 22k GVWR I am only left with 4k that I can tow legally. The Bounder is on a 26k GCWR. For me to tow 5k I would have to reduce my GVWR to 21k.

Dennis_K · 02-21-2017, 09:38 AM

I have towed a trailer with a gross weight of about 6500# with a 5000# rated hitch for a few years with no problems. I don't recommend it, just stating what I did. My last Motorhome chassis (2003 Freightliner) had a 10,000# tow rating but had a 5000# hitch installed. I just made a stronger hitch.
You should start with finding out what the towing capacity of the chassis is, then see if you can change the hitch if needed.

FYI, in the last 14 years of towing behind the Motorhome no one has ever stopped me to look at the hitch rating nor have I ever heard of that happening.

Old-Biscuit · 02-21-2017, 10:24 AM

You can tow UP TO what your hitch and MH are rated for......even if trailer had a GVWR of 10K
Just stay within the MHs towing capability, hitch rating and MHs GCVWR

As for 'spot inspections'
Are you towing 'commercially' or just for 'recreational' ?
Commercially are the only ones that need to worry about weigh stations, roadside inspections etc.

PbdBlue · 02-21-2017, 07:32 PM

Watch you're not taking into account is that most MH's with a 5000# hitch also have a 500# tongue weight limit. You will likely exceed that long before you max out the tow weight. 10% is the minimum tongue weight and 15% really is preferred for good towing stability. 15% will put you at 750#for a 5000# load.