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Old 08-25-2010, 08:33 PM   #15
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Actually, my owner's manual (July 07 build, 08 model year) says to disconnect the battery cable at the battery. That is not practical at all on my vehicle. A later revision gave a fuse to pull, and yet a later revision gave the batt1 fuse. At that point I took it on myself to figure it out since it took GM at least three tries.

In my mind, only three things (other than the braking system) matter.
1. Steering wheel unlocked - not an issue on this model.
2. Transmission in neutral - mine and the yours are done the same way - the shifter is in "N".
3. Don't run down the battery - you flip a switch, I leave it in "off" and remove the key, some use a toad charging system. All three methods work, but none of us are following the manual. I guess we each choose which parts of the manual to ignore. My method involves the least changes to the vehicle, is the quickest to use, and lets me keep the key out of the vehicle.

The reason I crank it in the morning and at gas stops is that I have no way of knowing what is going on inside the transmission and it would affect my warranty, so I defer to GM on that one.

I am not saying my way is perfect, but it is the easiest for me and works just fine.
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Old 08-26-2010, 07:08 AM   #16
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try one position before ACC

The only time we've run the battery down on our 2009 Enclave was when I put the key in ACC - one position farther than I usually set it.

If you look on the ring around the key slot, there is a notch shown before ACC. That makes it just one "click" from it's initial position. If I put the key at that spot instead of ACC, no battery problem.

I also make sure everything is turned off when the key is at that spot. Radio, fans, lights, everything battery related.

Then, it's pull the fuse and off we go.

I think I would like to try the steps listed above which allow the doors to be locked but I don't know if I'm that brave.
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:09 AM   #17
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If you look on the ring around the key slot, there is a notch shown before ACC. That makes it just one "click" from it's initial position. If I put the key at that spot instead of ACC, no battery problem.
That's different than mine - ACC is the very first notch/click of the key on my 07 Acadia. If the radio, fans. lights etc all work in your first position, what is the difference between that and ACC? Does your owner manual say?
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:18 AM   #18
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3. Don't run down the battery - you flip a switch, I leave it in "off" and remove the key, some use a toad charging system. All three methods work, but none of us are following the manual. I guess we each choose which parts of the manual to ignore. My method involves the least changes to the vehicle, is the quickest to use, and lets me keep the key out of the vehicle.
Well, I think I am following the manual. My switch is just a different technique for "removing" the Batt1 fuse. But I agree - GM does not seem to know themselves what is really needed - they gave me wrong instructions twice before the Batt1 trick was "discovered" by somebody else, not the GM Lambda engineers. So whatever works is fine.

I'm just concerned there may be some reason for having the key on other than a steering lock, which this vehicle does not have anyway. For example, I get occasional "check engine" lights after towing. GM techs read the code as from the Stabil-ride traction control system and say not to worry, but clearly the onboard computers are unhappy at something. What is hard to figure is whether they are doing something useful or just fussing. Maybe I would actually be better off with the key OFF instead of ACC?
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Old 08-26-2010, 01:20 PM   #19
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I was also worried about the key needing to by in ACCY for some other reason. I did a lot of homework on the shifter/key interlock and went through the wiring diagrams of what was "hot" in ACCY and how many of those went away when Batt1 was pulled. I was convinced (and I am a very throrough mechanical/electrical engineer who hates breaking things that I have to pay for) that the only purpose of ACCY is to get the transmission into N. That is when I went about finding a quicker method to get to Neutral.

I looked at my ignition, and I also don't have a marked position between off and ACCY so there must have been a change at some point.

Does anyone know if the latest owner's manuals say to go to ACCY or this new position?

Tim
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:20 AM   #20
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I just don't understand the need for switches or pulling fuses. When we tow our Outlook, the ignition is "off" and the key is in my pocket. This family of vehicles does not have a steering wheel lock, and the procedure I described above gets the transmission in neutral.

At one time we towed over 4 days and 2,000 miles without unhooking. We only ran it in the mornings and at fuel stops as directed in the owner's manual. No dead batteries, no resetting the clock, and no toad charge.
My 2010 Encalve must be different as I only have three key positions, On, Acc, & Off. I guess I will be going the route of installing the switch.
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Old 08-27-2010, 09:19 AM   #21
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My 2010 Encalve must be different as I only have three key positions, On, Acc, & Off. I guess I will be going the route of installing the switch.
There may be some confusion among the posts here. I also only have On, Acc, and Off. Another poster referred to a forth position.

I am not trying to be augumentative, but I truly do not understand why you would want to add a switch. If I am missing something and potentially damaging my vehicle with my method I really do want to know.

I think the good news in all of this is that a lot of these vehicles are being used as toweds and seem to be working well except for this one issue.
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Old 08-29-2010, 08:50 AM   #22
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I am not trying to be augumentative, but I truly do not understand why you would want to add a switch. If I am missing something and potentially damaging my vehicle with my method I really do want to know.
The switch simply eliminates the need to physically remove the Batt1 fuse - a convenience. If you don't tow with the key in ACC, then the fuse/switch is irrelevant.

Perhaps the owner manual instructions was intended to mean that you placed the key in ACC in order to move the shifter to Neutral. After that, maybe it is not important what position the key is in (Off or ACC)? But if so, why the instructions re pulling a fuse? It's a conumdrum!
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:24 AM   #23
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Gary-RV Roamer,
I was again looking at your posting on 8/22 and wonder what gauge wire you used? I looks about like 6-8 ga.
Where did you locate the 50amp fuse and toggle switch?
Thanks
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Old 09-04-2010, 04:06 PM   #24
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It's 10 gauge automotive primary wire, which is rated for 50+ amps at 12v. I got the 50A maxi fuse and 50A toggle switch at a NAPA store. When I asked for a 50A rated switch, they brought out a catalog, told me pick one I liked and they would have it the next day. And they did.
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