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Old 12-15-2013, 11:58 AM   #1
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Towing a Ford F250 Super Duty

I am in the market for a used DP. We have a 2013 F-250 Super Duty that we really like. I can't find any topics about towing one. I have looked at a couple charts but they seem to stop at F-150's.

We were towing our FW on the way home from Phoenix last month, the week before the Nascar race. We must have passed 50 large DP's, headed west on I-10, towing Chevy Silverados CC's, 4 wheels down, with a golf cart in it's bed. It made me start thinking about the possibility of towing our pickup.
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:06 PM   #2
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According to the 2013 Ford Towing Guide (here), it's towable 4 down only if it's 4WD with a manual transfer case and automatic transmission.
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
I am in the market for a used DP. We have a 2013 F-250 Super Duty that we really like. I can't find any topics about towing one. I have looked at a couple charts but they seem to stop at F-150's.

We were towing our FW on the way home from Phoenix last month, the week before the Nascar race. We must have passed 50 large DP's, headed west on I-10, towing Chevy Silverados CC's, 4 wheels down, with a golf cart in it's bed. It made me start thinking about the possibility of towing our pickup.
Well Sir,
The first thing you need to do is, get into the owners manual of your F-250 and, look up "Recreational Towing", as in behind a motor home. That's the ultimate authority for your towing of your truck. Then, if you find that it is in fact, flat towable (by reading and understanding all the steps involved in setting up for towing), the next most important move is to get it WEIGHED! Do not, REPEAT, DO NOT go by the Dinghy Towing guides or, any other printed source for your "supposed" weight of your particular truck. GET IT WEIGHED so that you know exactly what it weighs, as it would be traveling down the road. That includes a full tank of fuel and anything else that you would normally carry.

Now, you're armed with all the specifics that will assist in guiding you to the correct size coach, engine, trans etc. that will be capable of towing your truck, without issues. So many folks purchase a coach and then find out, "oh crap" it's not capable of towing what we want to tow, now what do we do?"

Don't forget to get the golf cart weighed too. That's most likely around 1000 lbs. but, get it weighed to be dead sure. It will also be very helpful in determining just which tow bar system you'll need to handle that kind of weight. Being sure, ahead of time, is the only way to go. There's a fella on one of these forums that recently purchased a 2014 Jeep Cherokee to flat tow behind the coach, only to find out that the one he test drove, was different model, equipped with a different model transfer case that CAN be flat towed, and, he ASSUMED, that they, (all the models of the new Jeep Cherokee) were equipped with the same transfer cases and bought another model. Well, to his astonishment, and serious dismay, after paying over around $25K for this thing, found out it IS NOT FLAT TOWABLE!!

So, my point, do your homework, get all the facts, especially from manufacturers, not aftermarket sales of component pieces, prior to you making seriously large and expensive decisions. We tow a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Extended Cab with Rampage motorcycle lift, carrying a Honda GL 1800 Goldwing in the back of it. The coach does great. It slows on the grades but, that's to be expected. Other than that, it's 7.0 mpg at 60 mph and we have a ball. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:57 PM   #4
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We had a DP then a 5 r and liked the motor home so we went looking for a toy hauler class a and ended up with a outlaw and we love it as with any coach or trailer we could not get everything we wanted no matter which way we went but the this out law came as close to what we needed for our life style
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:40 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies and the link to the towing guide. I failed to mention that we are looking at DP's w tag axles, 400 - 500 HP. Everything I have looked at to date has had a 10K - 15K tow rating. DW's truck is a King Ranch w 6.7L diesel. It does not have a manual tranfer case. Looks like the manual transfer case is not available on Lariat, King Ranch, or Platinum models, only "shift on the fly". That pretty much limits me to a trailer of some type if I choose to keep the truck.
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:48 PM   #6
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Might be able to just get a rear drive shaft disconnect for your truck. http://swdriveline.com/remco_driveline_disconnect.html
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:10 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by jamesrxx951 View Post
Might be able to just get a rear drive shaft disconnect for your truck. Remco driveline driveshaft disconnect coupler
It seems that the rear differential is not the issue. The 2013 towing guide linked above states that automatic transmissions should be shifted to neutral. The issue is the 4WD transfer case for the front is not manual and can not be shifted into neutral. The guide also indicates that you can't tow a 2WD Super duty, only a 4WD w/ manual transfer case. Not sure I understand that logic.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:38 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
It seems that the rear differential is not the issue. The 2013 towing guide linked above states that automatic transmissions should be shifted to neutral. The issue is the 4WD transfer case for the front is not manual and can not be shifted into neutral. The guide also indicates that you can't tow a 2WD Super duty, only a 4WD w/ manual transfer case. Not sure I understand that logic.
The issue is the transmission. With the engine not running, there is no lube on the rear output shaft bearing. This will cause catastrophic failure due to the lack of lube. When you shift the transfer case into neutral, the output shaft will not move. With the front hubs auto, the hubs are not locked in to the front drive shaft. Disconnecting rear driveshaft will keep the transfer case and transmission from moving. Thus preventing damage. The key is to find a disconnect that is strong enough for 400HP and 800LBFT of torque.
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:31 PM   #9
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Also worth mentioning if you really plan on trailering it, the 250-350 family have curb weights in the 8000lb range for diesel versions. That will require a heavy duty trailer that will weigh every bit of 4000lbs by itself, probably more. I'd say when its all said and done, you're looking at towing 13-14k. I'd be asking myself if its worth that much expense and hassle.

I do love some King Ranch F series though(see sig)
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Old 12-16-2013, 03:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
The issue is the transmission. With the engine not running, there is no lube on the rear output shaft bearing.
This is what I was taught many years ago. That's why I was shocked to read in the Ford towing guide that you can tow it with the automatic transmission in neutral as long as the transfer case is manual shift. It does not mention having a "4wheels down towing feature" like the F-150 does.

This was quoted from the F-150 owner's manual. Maybe I need to trade it for a F-150.

Quote:
The owners manual for the F-150 shows no restrictions whatsoever when towing the vehicle. Here is what the manual says:

RECREATIONAL TOWING
Note: Put your climate control system in recirculated air mode to
prevent exhaust fumes from entering the vehicle. Refer to the Climate
Controls chapter.
Follow these guidelines if you need to tow your vehicle behind another
vehicle, such as a motor home. The guidelines are designed to prevent
damage to your vehicle and its transmission after it is hooked-up to the
tow vehicle or tow dolly.
2WD vehicles cannot be towed with any wheels on the ground as
vehicle or transmission damage may occur. The vehicle must be towed
with all four wheels off the ground (i.e. with a car-hauling trailer).
4WD vehicles can only be towed with all wheels on the ground by
placing the transfer case in its neutral position and engaging the
four-wheel-down towing feature. Perform the steps outlined in the
Four-wheel-down towing section after positioning your vehicle behind
the tow vehicle and properly securing them together
Four-wheel-down towing
1. Turn the ignition to the on position; do not start the engine.
2. Press and hold the brake pedal.
3. Shift the 4WD switch to 2H.
4. Shift the transmission to N (Neutral).
5. Rotate the 4WD switch from 2H to 4L and back to 2H five times
within seven seconds.
If completed successfully, the instrument cluster displays NEUTRAL
TOW LEAVE IN N or NEUTRAL TOW ENABLED LEAVE
TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL, indicating that the vehicle is safe
to tow with all wheels on the ground.
If the message is not shown in the display, the procedure must be
performed again from the beginning.
An audible noise may be heard as the transfer case shifts into its
neutral position; this is normal.
6. Leave the transmission in N (Neutral) and turn the ignition as far as it will go toward the off position (it will not turn fully off when the transmission is in N [Neutral]).
The key must be left in the ignition while towing. To lock and unlock your vehicle, use the keyless entry keypad or extra set of keys.
7. Release the brake pedal.
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Old 12-16-2013, 03:55 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15 View Post
Also worth mentioning if you really plan on trailering it, the 250-350 family have curb weights in the 8000lb range for diesel versions. That will require a heavy duty trailer that will weigh every bit of 4000lbs by itself, probably more. I'd say when its all said and done, you're looking at towing 13-14k. I'd be asking myself if its worth that much expense and hassle.

I do love some King Ranch F series though(see sig)
You make a good point. The trailer would have to be substantial.
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Old 12-16-2013, 04:57 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
This is what I was taught many years ago. That's why I was shocked to read in the Ford towing guide that you can tow it with the automatic transmission in neutral as long as the transfer case is manual shift. It does not mention having a "4wheels down towing feature" like the F-150 does.

This was quoted from the F-150 owner's manual. Maybe I need to trade it for a F-150.
I never understood why the manual writers put in there to place the transmission into neutral also. The only thing I could think of is for safety. If by any reason the transfer case locked back into the front input shaft, the wheels would not lock up. Just burn out the transmission. There should be next to no parasitic drag rotation on the transmission output shaft when the transfer case is shifted into neutral.
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
Thanks for the replies and the link to the towing guide. I failed to mention that we are looking at DP's w tag axles, 400 - 500 HP. Everything I have looked at to date has had a 10K - 15K tow rating. DW's truck is a King Ranch w 6.7L diesel. It does not have a manual tranfer case. Looks like the manual transfer case is not available on Lariat, King Ranch, or Platinum models, only "shift on the fly". That pretty much limits me to a trailer of some type if I choose to keep the truck.
Not necessarily, read the owners manual. In the Ram trucks a manual transfer case is not necessary as long as it has the electronic "N" position. As stated read the freaking manual of the truck in question. That will tell you exactly how and if it can be towed flat.
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Old 12-23-2013, 04:10 AM   #14
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Not necessarily, read the owners manual. In the Ram trucks a manual transfer case is not necessary as long as it has the electronic "N" position. As stated read the freaking manual of the truck in question. That will tell you exactly how and if it can be towed flat.
gm says the same thing. not a problem.
tow mine all over, don't even know it's back there.
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